Pristine new machine crashes while playing demanding games.
First - specs:
- graphics - MSI GF560 GTX-TI-M2D1GD5 - factory radiator and settings
- RAM - Kingston HyperX 2x4GB 1600MHz DDR3 Non-ECC CL9 Intel XMP X2 Grey Series - factory settings
- AC (620W) + computer case - Logic Concept AT-B040-10-LOG620A-0002
- CPU - Intel CORE I5 2500K 3.3GHz LGA1155 - factory radiator and settings
- HDD - Seagate Barracuda Green, 3.5'', 1TB, SATAII, 32MB cache
- motherboard - MSI P67A-GD65 (B3) - factory settings
- OS - Windows 7 x64 Pro
Now problem:
PC works like a charm until I try to play demanding games (Just Cause 2, Battlefield 3), when it just turns off after 5 minutes of playing. When I power it up again and try to play games, it turns off even sooner. No BSOD, just instant shutdown.
I suspected it was something with graphics, because even though MSI Afterburner reported 50 Celsius on GPU, it was 95 and rising (measured with laser thermometer, instead of games I used MSI Kombustor to force card to work). MSI replaced my card (after fucking month of waiting and no less than 3 calls from me) saying that problem was caused by "something with cooling", but it persist even on new card - this time temperature is measured correctly and card doesn't overheat.
Additionally, when using newest (306) nVidia drivers, they randomly stop working (afaik it's a fuckup on nVidia side, because older drivers work just fine).
I suspect two things - AC may be too weak, or cable from AC may not provide enough energy due to missing one pin.
These are my gfx card sockets, this is how one cord's socket looks like (one is connected directly to AC, all 6 pins are in place, second is combined from two separate cables).
I would appreciate even the smallest advice on how to solve this.
EDIT: welp, looks like something has gone even worse. Now randomly after powering rig up, I get horrible artifacts all over the screen, and if I try to run Kombustor 2.4, usual fuzzy graphic gets distorted after 10 seconds and whole thing crashes to hell (not powers down, just whole screen gets artifacts and PC doesn't respond). I'll try another AC (Chieftec 550W (GPS-550AB-A) - never failed me) and see results, but I'm not expecting success. PC is still on valid warranty, so I'll try to get it either fixed or refunded.
Posted Nov 2, 2012, 6:45 PM UTC · edited
[deleted]
Are you sure? I read that 600W is enough for it, and I don't want to buy it just to have the same problems.
Stated maximum wattage is irrelevant if your PSU can't provide it reliably to spec. Power supplies are one thing where the manufacturer really, really matters. I can't find a single review of Logic's PSUs, and that doesn't bode well for their reputation. If they're cheaping out on parts in the name of affordability, they're probably providing filthy, unstable power that doesn't actually meet the label's guaranteed minimums. You're going to want something from a reliable manufacturer or OEM like Corsair (TX-series in particular), PC Power & Cooling, Seasonic, XFX (rebranded Seasonics), or to a lesser extent recently, Antec. Flip through some of JonnyGuru's reviews to see what determines a "good" PSU. It is the only thing powering every component in your PC and you really can't afford to skimp on it.
edit: and make sure you get something with two real PCI-E connectors; that adapter can't be helping the situation.
Always have more then it recommends. Try a 750, or go to a computer store to try the power supply, they'll help you.
check out a power supply calculator http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/
[deleted]
I will try that, but is there any way I can test power supply for faulty voltage? I don't want to wait another month to discover it was not it.
[deleted]
Yes; a volt-ohm/multimeter. You can pick one up at a local hardware store, or sometimes even at Wal-Mart in the home improvement section, near the electronics department and lighting. You want to make sure you're getting readings of 1.5v, 3.3v, and 12v when you test the various wires (with minimum variance).
Feel free to refer to this chart for what is considered "safe/stable" outputs: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/insidethepc/a/power-supply-voltage-tolerance.htm
If you are planning on buying a new power supply, please make sure you buy one with 20 amps+ per rail. This is a very common issue that its not talked about all that much. Newer video cards only need 100+watts to actually run, but they real trouble is the amp per rail.
This is why most people started leaning to Corsair brand power supplies with lower wattage. They have high amps.
http://imgur.com/lFUp2 are those enough?
Enermax, Silverstone, PC Power & Cooling, Corsair and Seasonic are the top brands. OCZ and Antec are great too because they're pretty cheap. There are 7 brands here and lots to choose from. Stick with those and as long as the product is not DOA, you'll be fine. If you're willing to spend ~$70, Corsair is probably the best value in that range.
You only need a good 500-watt PSU to power your system. Get a 600 to be safe.
If you put your video card on a single rail by itself it should be fine.
Your PSU isn't good enough. PSU's are never at their 100% wattage. NEVER. Also the way you described your gfx card pins worries me. The first thing to check on any pc is the PSU, especially if the pc's dead or for graphical problems. I used to have issues with my 500w. Now that I have my Huntkey (Italics because them and Coolermaster are reliable brands) 700w PSU, I don't have a day's problems. Also, my system should run fine on a 500w. But it didn't.