Saving money on dog ownership

I'm not sure if frugal will care too much because the act of owning a pet itself is not frugal living, but I see a few questions about pets from time to time. Not everyone is going to agree with every tip in here, or be comfortable with my suggestions, but this what works for me.

1. Tractor supply vaccines-- if tractor supply is near you. Other feed stores might have something comparable. They have vaccines for both puppies and adults there. Puppies don't get the vaccine including lepto. They also have the kennel cough nasal vaccine there. Obviously you must still go to your vet for rabies vaccine if required where you live and annual checkups are still a must. Consult with your vet for their recommended vaccine schedule and guidelines particularly with puppies. In my experience, they will update your records if you send them the vaccine labels you used (this only really matters for boarding or obedience classes). It's not worth it to ship the vaccines you find online because they must be refrigerated, but buying locally they're less than $10. Note: I've never vaccinated a puppy, but I do my own adult vaccines.

2. Ivomec [1% ivermectin] for Cattle and Swine Injectable-- for heartworm. It's also sometimes used for mange treatments. I got a 50 ml bottle for $30 some dollars; I think the price has gone up lately though ($48.95 on Amazon). This can be found at feed stores also. Get some 1ML syringes assuming you don't have a huge dog. Amazon even suggests syringes with the Ivomec in a bundle. Dosage is 1 ml per 100 lbs or .1cc per 10lbs orally. They don't like the taste, but over time it's a cheaper solution. It's also really convenient for expenses in multiple dog households; a few breeders recommended it to me and I haven't looked back. It will also treat roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms iirc (I've seen it treat roundworms). I would not use it for this purpose without the guidance of your vet. There are many other dewormers at pet stores too that are probably cheaper than a visit to the vet, but as always, ask your vet first. Note: DO NOT USE on collies or silken windhounds, particularly those with white feet, without consulting your vet. They are at risk for the MDR1 mutation that causes a sensitivity to this drug.

3. Diatomaceous earth-- for fleas. If you're not in an area that causes constant re-infestation of fleas, food grade diatomaceous earth might be a good option. If I see a flea on my dog or if he scratches himself he gets dusted with this, or basically, I smear it on his back. Dogs can also eat this for a natural dewormer. I got 10lbs for $20 last year. I still have tons. It has killed a handful of fleas on my dog a multitude of times. The con of this method is that you have to reapply often and be diligent about using it in the summer. If you have a lot of fleas in your area this might not work well either. This doesn't treat ticks obviously, and it's not a preventative. I wouldn't only use this and go hiking through a tick infested wooded area in mid-summer. However, I've only dosed my dog with frontline once this year in June because I was hiking through a high lyme area, so I've saved $100 or so. Also, if you read the back of a frontline box, it'll tell you that it treats fleas for 3 months; however, it treats ticks for only 1 month.

4. For the love of god, take care of their teeth. It helps their overall health long-term. This means you can brush them nightly and scale their teeth occasionally with a metal pick if they'll cooperate (best started a puppyhood)! This is going to be your cheapest option probably, since the metal pick is one investment for the life of the dog. I managed to keep my parents' dachshunds' teeth sparkly white until I left for college (7 years). The vet always remarked on how good their teeth were, they never had a dental, etc etc. As soon as I left for college their teeth went to shit of course. I don't brush my current dog's teeth because he's a 50lb uncooperative muscle, but I do use petz oral care spray or gel on his teeth every few days and that seems to work. There are other brands also that I've heard work. Dentals are expensive, so this is saving money in the long run. They cost a few hundred at least. The spray I use is on Amazon for $27 for 8oz. It lasts quite a while since you're using a teaspoon or less each day, maintenance cleaning is once every 3-4 days. 6tsp-1oz, 144 days on a maintenance dose assuming your dog is over 60lbs, and at least twice as many days if your dog is under that weight.

5. Good diet. Everyone is going to disagree on what diet is best for their dog. Feeding your dog a bag full of corn is cheap in the short run, but could cause issues later. So find a quality food no matter what your feeding preference. I personally feed a raw diet, and while this isn't the cheapest for most people, it's a great option. I source meat from hunters and craigslist for free sometimes. I buy in bulk and get everything under $2/lb. Ultimately I've spend anywhere from $0 a day to $4 a day (eek). I probably average $1.50 a day

6. If you don't have the dog yet... get a rescue if you're not planning to do conformation or something of that sort. Hybrid vigor! Shelter dogs are well worth their price. That being said, I have a purebred (there are purebreds in shelters). If you're going to go the more expensive breeder route make sure to get one from a breeder that does health tests. Hips, elbows, thryoid, and heart tests depending on the breed are desirable. I'd personally avoid breeds with lots of genetic predispositions to problems, bulldogs, king charles spaniels, etc. OFFA is the place to look at if you're interested in breed statistics on health tests. Here's a study comparing breed health. Puppies are also way more expensive than adults. Check craigslist for used crates, I see them all the time. Crates save $$ and lives.

7. Pet insurance is a gamble that you'll probably lose. I don't have it. There are going to be a few people out there who have benefited tremendously from it, and it's good to have if you don't have a few grand in your bank that could potentially be used for a disaster. Overall it's a loss if you only have a few minor problems over the life of the pet. I'd be more willing to get it if I had a breed with a high genetic risk for expensive problems, like bloat or hip dysplasia (you have to make sure the insurance will cover dysplasia if you look at providers for this specifically). The insurance company is a business. In the U.S. they generally work differently than health insurance plans; you will still have to cover the cost of the expense up front and then you wait for a reimbursement.

So here you go, some long term cost cutting and tips.