4 nights in Palermo recommendations

HI all! My partner and I have decided to do 4 nights in Palermo early September. We love food and drink and culture, and are looking for recommendations for markets, food, restaurants (I am vegetarian mostly - will eat a little fish) and bars.

We are usually up really early but I have heard that Palermo doesn't come alive till night - are we better going and doing excursions in the morning and then napping in the afternoon so we can be awake when the city is vibrant? Are there any you recommend? What time do the bars usually open at night?