# Vehicle: 2012 Nissan 370Z (3.7L V6)

(Pictures of Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Wire (includes wire colors and connection points for colored wires))

  
**Please Read First:** I have included Day 1 and Day 2 testing, some updates with more info on Day 2. I was thinking it might just be spark plug on Day 0, then after Day 1, I was leaning towards a fuel pump replacement (or just temp sensor), I am still leaning towards the fuel pump replacement as a solution after Day 2 - not an auto mechanic, but a DIY homeowner getting handier everyday.



# --- Day 1 Testing---

# Issue Description

* Car started idling roughly.
* After running for a bit, I noticed a burning smell (similar to burning rubber, but not quite).
* I did not attempt to drive the vehicle, but I did rev it to see if the issue would resolve itself.
* Vehicle is not driven often (about once every two weeks, short runs just to keep it going).
* Location: Florida (not necessarily coastal, but hot climate, \~7 miles from ocean).
* Check engine light behavior:
   * Sometimes **steady**
   * Sometimes **blinking**

# OBD-II Codes Pulled

* **P0300**: Random/multiple cylinder misfire
* **P0181**: Fuel temperature sensor circuit range/performance

# Testing Performed at ~80°F outside with car in driveway

1. **Multimeter readings at the fuel pump hat connector:**
   * Pink & Black wires: **0.7 ohms** (auto ohm/continuity mode)
   * White & Yellow wires: **20.9 ohms** (auto ohm/continuity mode)
   * Switched to **KΩ setting**:
      * Pink & Black: **0.001 KΩ**
      * White & Yellow: **0.02 KΩ**
   * All other probe points showed **OL (open line)**
2. **Continuity testing toward ECM wiring:**
   * Began probing wires going toward ECM (assuming for continuity-to-ground test).
   * Did not complete full testing; unsure if battery needs to be connected during this test.
   * Noted that at least 2 wires did show continuity to ground, but I did not write down values.

# Notes

* Car sits for long periods; wondering if **corrosion or stale fuel** may be contributing to the problem.



# --- Day 2 Testing ---

# Additional Diagnostic Data

Note: P0181is now archived, P0300 is still active (after clearing codes, both still come up again, but as stated: P0181 comes up archived)

# Fuel Trims

* **At Idle (Bank 1 & 2):**
   * Short Term Fuel Trims: fluctuated between **+7% and +25%**
   * Long Term Fuel Trims: **0%**
* **At 2500 RPM:**
   * Bank 1: **+18% to +25%**
   * Bank 2: **+25%**

# Oxygen Sensor Readings

* **Bank 1 Sensor 1 (O2):** \~**0.01 V** steady
* **Bank 2 Sensor 1 (O2):** fluctuated between **0–0.01 V**
* **After revving to 3000 RPM for \~2 seconds:** **No change** in readings
* **Wideband O2 Sensors:**
   * Bank 1: **1.0–3.3 V at idle**, no change with revving
   * Bank 2: **1.0–3.3 V at idle**, no change with revving

# Coolant Temperature

* Stable during testing
* Started around **176°F**, rose to **192°F** over \~25 minutes of idling and light rev testing

# MAF Sensor

* Idle airflow: **\~4–4.5 g/s**
* At 2500 RPM: **8–16 g/s**
* Appeared to respond normally

# Fuel Tank Temperature

* Unable to get a reading at Key On
* Only observed: **\[NC\] fuel temp = -22°F** (unsure what \[NC\] means)

The above reading on the fuel temp, paired with the P0181 and the not optimal multimeter readings are what have me thinking the fuel pump or temp sensor is the problem.

370z Rough Idle - Fuel Pump? - includes OBD2 codes and data + multimeter testing