First timer. Need recommendations.

I'm visiting Tokyo for a one week stopover on my way to Thailand. I'll be in Japan from Jan 7-16. I'm a 50+ male, traveling alone. I like getting a feel for a place without the typical tourist traps. I'm not interested in museums. I'd like to watch a sumo tournament, but I hear the tournament in January is sold out. Perhaps there's a way to still get tix from second-party sellers? I'm not sure how it works in Japan. I'd also like to take a trip to either Kyoto or Osaka areas for a few days. I think Kyoto is more my speed. I'd also like to visit a traditional onsen ryokan in the mountains. I was thinking 3 days in Tokyo, 3 days in Kyoto, and a couple days at onsen town to unwind. Recommendations are appreciated.