Project Research: Stainless Steel 1680 Submariner with Blue Nipple Dial

WATCHMAKING QUESTION

Hi everyone! I was planning to wait until I had the budget to start this project, but I’m posting now to enter the New Year's Giveaway and get a head start on my research.

My dream build is a Rolex Submariner 1680 in stainless steel with a blue nipple dial and a matching blue bezel. I’m aware this isn't a factory configuration, but I love the vintage blue look on a steel case.

The goal is to build it with high-quality gen-spec parts so I can eventually swap in a genuine Rolex nipple dial. I also want to eventually install a 'roulette' date wheel (with red numbers) to give it that extra vintage character.

I have a few questions for the experts:

  1. Which case would you recommend that accepts a gen-spec nipple dial and already comes with (or can easily fit) a blue bezel insert?
  2. What movement would be the best fit for this build, specifically one that allows for an easy date wheel swap to a roulette version?
  3. Are there specific movements that accept vintage-style date overlays or gen date wheels without heavy modification?

Any guides or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Original 1977 Rolex Submariner 1680 with Blue Bezel and Blue Nipple Dial

Original 1977 Rolex Submariner 1680 with Blue Bezel and Blue Nipple Dial

Posted Jan 7, 2026, 2:58 PM UTC

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