My first encounter with the Grignolino grape feels like a revelation. It is often described as “baby Nebbiolo” or “Italy’s Beaujolais,” and both comparisons are fitting. Still, it stands comfortably on its own. It drinks like a Beaujolais with an Italian temper, more tensile, a touch more angular, with tannic restraint beneath its charm.

In the glass, it shows a luminous ruby red, a colour that suggests more weight than it ultimately delivers. The depth prepares you for something fuller-bodied, yet the wine moves with far more agility than its appearance implies. There is lift here rather than mass.

The nose is direct and vivid. Fresh strawberry, red currant, tart cherry, and raspberry lead the way, finely etched rather than plush. The fruit is defined by freshness and acidity, not sweetness. Rose petals and a subtle herbal nuance, reminiscent of dried rosemary, runs through spicy notes. Beneath it lies an earthy undertone, dusty and mineral, like flint, giving the wine a grounded, tactile edge.

On the palate, it is light-bodied but far from slight. There is clear structure, an internal framework that keeps the fruit taut and focused. The acidity is bright and precise, carrying the wine forward with lift. Tannins arrive in healthy measure, smooth and confidently present, giving the wine grip and shape without being overbearing. The balance between crisp red fruit, acidity, and firm tannic structure gives the wine definition and drive.

The finish lingers, carried by lively red fruit and a persistent tannic echo. It remains crisp to the end, leaving the palate refreshed. A perfect wine for food. Great fun!

  
89 points

  
(And the price is great fun too!)

Crealto Marcaleone 2023