How to tell if this is a switch loop or not

Hello, I'm trying to install two smart switchs for my kitchen lights, but found this mess, and I would like to fix it to make it proper. But I'm kind of confused with what's going on here. I am assuming the bottom right is the power to the box, the bottom right is power scabbed off for the always light and the top is the power to the two lights. But it seems the neutral is being used for one of the lights hot wires.

So I'm not sure if this is a switch loop or what's going on, and if I am able to put in start switchs, as it needs a neutral, and there seems to only be one neutral, for two lights.

https://imgur.com/a/aRv189d

Thanks in advance. And can't get more pictures if needed!