Native to New Guinea, Indonesia, Cape York Peninsula (Australia) rainforests.

Adult Size: \~4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m)  

Lifespan: 15–20+ years in good care  

Primarily nocturnal and arboreal species. 

Temperament can be defensive if stressed; handling should be minimal and careful.

Enclosure size;

Juveniles: Smaller vertical/compact enclosures help reduce stress and make feeding easier.

Adults: Minimum \~36″ L × 24″ W × 24–36″ H (height is important for climbing). Bigger is always better.  

\*Emphasis on vertical space because this species spends most of its life wrapped on perches.  

Materials & Structure;

Wood, PVC/HDPE, or vivariums with front/side access (better heat & humidity retention than bare glass)

Good airflow to balance humidity and prevent respiratory issues

Opaque or semi‑opaque sides can reduce stress

Provide multiple sturdy climbing branches at various heights and angles. Use real wood or reptile‑safe artificial branches — variety of thickness improves grip/control. Hide spots and natural plants add security and simulate rainforest canopy.

Temperature & Thermoregulation;

Basking/Hot Spot	\~88–90°F (31–32°C)

Ambient Thermal Gradient	\~78–82°F (25–28°C)

Night Temperature should not drop below \~72–75°F (22–24°C)

Use ceramic heat emitters or radiant heat panels with a thermostat.

Use two thermometers (cool and warm zones) for proper monitoring.

Provide \~10–12 hours of light/day cycle to mimic natural day/night rhythms.  

Humidity & Hydration;

Green Tree Pythons evolved in rainforest environments, so humidity is essential.

Target Humidity;

Daytime: \~50–70%

Shedding periods: \~70–80%

\*Monitor with a hygrometer placed in the mid‑height of the enclosure.  

Daily misting or automatic misting system.  

A large water dish helps raise ambient humidity and provides soaking opportunities.  

Good airflow prevents excess moisture buildup, which can cause respiratory issues.

Diet;

Rodents (appropriately sized mice/rats) are standard.  

Frozen‑Thawed Prey is recommended rather than live prey to avoid injury.  

Prey should be roughly the same diameter as the snake’s mid‑body.  

Juvenies: Feed every 7–10 days

Adults: Feed every 10–14 days (adjust to weight/condition)

Avoid feeding when the snake is actively shedding.

Substrate Options (moisture‑retentive materials that hold humidity) 

Coconut husk

Reptile soil

Paper towels or newspaper are acceptable for simpler setups.

Depth: At least \~2″ deep helps humidity and hides bacterial waste.  

Spot‑clean daily: Remove feces and waste.  

Deep clean weekly/monthly: Full substrate replacement + disinfection of décor/enclosure.  

Healthy shedding and proper digestion is the key indicator of proper husbandry.

Signs of Good Shedding– Whole shed in one piece, eye caps removed cleanly

Poor temperature/humidity control	will induce stress, respiratory issues, shedding problems

GTPs are not a cuddle snake — avoid frequent handling to minimize stress. Individual temperament varies 

Use perches that can be removed — coax the snake gently rather than grabbing it, avoid unwrapping them as they are very fragile animals.

Feel free to add any comments, advice, critiques :) 

Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) Care Guide 🐍