Do most finger-training plateaus come from bad protocol, or just from stacking hard stuff onto an already hard week?

Feels like a lot of indoor climbers blame the protocol when the real problem is they keep sneaking finger work into a week that was already finger-heavy.

Hard board session, projecting on small stuff, then hangboarding because the week still needs to feel "serious". A lot of plateaus look more like accounting problems than training problems.

This breakdown on common finger-training mistakes actually gets at that pretty well without turning it into coach-speak: https://www.indoorclimbinggym.com/blog/7-finger-training-mistakes-indoor-climbers-make/

If your fingers felt stuck for a while, was it the plan itself or just too much hard grip load hiding inside the week?

Posted Apr 4, 2026, 1:09 PM UTC

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