Hello! I am in the early process of drafting some Regency short stays for myself using the Redthreaded pattern. I chose the size L as it was the closest to my measurements, knowing I would need to make alterations.

The first mock up was a disaster - who knew store boning was so terrible! - but the second one showed me I needed to take in the waist 3cm, and increase the size of the gussets a fair amount. I also replaced the centre boning with a wooden busk for extra rigidity.  
  
Pictured is 2.5 with a newly cut front and enlarged gussets (too long I know haha). I still think I might need to take the waist in but I’m more concerned with the bust. Fit feels terrible! My breast tissue is spilling out like nothing else and the busk is just sitting out like it’s afraid of me. I know the cups are most of the problem but am not sure what to try next, especially considering I know regency stays are supposed to sit low and provide lift. When I push the busk to my chest it’s not terrible on one side but that’s obviously not a viable option. Either is wearing it over a modern bra (where it looks great!).  
  
My tissue is SO squishy and pliable - I don’t want to look like I’m hanging low, but I’m concerned compression may just cut the tissue in half! I’m not sure what to do hahaha. My current thought is to maybe add an additional gusset on each side, and spread them out as well as raising the front a bit?  
  
I was looking for help online but all the photos are lovely ladies with beautifully balanced proportions. I truly have an inordinately large bust on a narrow ribcage (10HH/32L) but I really love historical costuming and want to make this work!

Help fitting regency short stays, very large bust!