After years of waiting and months of planning, we just came back from a trip to Hawaii focused on our visit to the Kalaupapa National Historic Park on Molokai.

For those not familiar, this is the location of former leper colony where people inflicted with the disease were initially just tossed ashore without care or support. If you have heard about Father Damien - this is the place where he served and earned his sainthood.  At its population peak, the colony was housing over 1,200 patients.  A cure for the disease was discovered in 1940s and eventually the isolation rules were lifted in 1960's; a lot of patients chose to leave the peninsula at that time but many have stayed.  The settlement is its own little universe complete with a tiny grocery store, a single pump gas station, and way more buildings than there are people including several churches.   There are only two patients remaining at Kalaupapa, both quite advanced in age.  In addition to the residents and care takers, there are some Department of Health and NPS employees out there, but that's about it.  The peninsula is only reachable by a tiny plane; anything too big to come on that plane is delivered to Kalaupapa on a barge that only comes once a year.  There are a few cars there and most of them do not have valid registration or even a plate since there is no police presence.

The landscape is absolutely stunning; a lot of Hawaii must have looked that way before the colonists came.  Sweeping ocean views, colossal cliffs, plenty of wildlife ( including invasive species:  too may deer and wild boar with not enough humans to hunt them.) Several beautiful churches and cemeteries.  We drove all around the peninsula in the van with our guide and talked to the pastor of one of the churches.

About the park: this is one of the most remote parks in the NPS system. Currently, you can only reach Kalaupapa Park on a private tour by airplane from Honolulu (price as of June 2026 - $649 per person).  There used to be a trail accessible by a mule ride, but it is no longer offered. Hikers from elsewhere on Molokai can technically reach Kalaupapa on foot but will be turned away as each visitor needs to have a sponsor to be there.   It is unclear what happens to the park once the last patient leaves.  In fact, the owner of the tour we took, who was a patient,  passed away last month. The contract with the tour-operating company is valid through the end of this year, but it's uncertain what would happen after that since the tour cannot operate without a patient sponsor.

So if Kalaupapa is on your list to visit, I recommend you go this year!

Kalaupapa National Historic Park - 2026 trip report