I guess it'd be too awkward for Miho to post Melody's clip, so here we go. I think this is actually making sense now. So my understand is, first you need to touch the hold, in a static way, no matter one hand or two hand. Then most importantly, you need to be able to make next move and stick it. Now the critical thing is, **the NEXT MOVE should be useful**, in another word, it's part of the beta towards the top.  

In Melody's run, she touched the zone first, then she comfortably did the next move (high right foot), and that high right foot making her be able to do the right hand move towards lower hold.  Obviously most girls who topped it either totally ditch using the right high foot and chose cross their feet directly , or reach the high right foot before zone hold. But no matter what her next move is legitimately part of her beta.  See her 3rd try.

Now back to Miho's examples, the first guy reaches the hold, but obviously failed the next move. The 3rd slab girl the same. For Miho, her left hand touched the zone, technically on the volume, then she did the next move which is releasing the right toe, which is okay, but now there is no way she can get out of this, the right beta is right hand on the zone HOLD. So in this case, her zone is not valued. Since the next move is useless. 

Prague 2026 Women semi W2 appeal replay