Hyde Memorial is minutes outside of Santa Fe and remains one of the great public sanctuaries in the area. the densely packed stucco clad structures that form the downtown core are replaced by stands of ponderosa, fir, and spruce as you quickly gain elevation on NM-475. there are no gated complexes here, the land belongs to anyone who has a few dollars to stay the night. the park is a gateway to the rest of Santa Fe National Forest and the capital itself, comfortably straddling the boundary between wilderness and historic city. 

slotted into the same narrow canyon as the highway, you might think this place gets crowded or that quiet is hard to come by. 475 dead ends at the ski area further north, though, so road activity just about disappears at night. once the sun sets, the canyon's topology swallows the meager light pollution bleeding over the ridge from Santa Fe, and the stars put on an incredible show. the planners were not greedy here, the sites are well spaced out. most times, your closest neighbors will be distant barks and occasional glimpses of movement through gaps in the tree cover. it's deceptively peaceful. 

the mountains beyond the park is where this place truly opens up. Santa Fe National Forest may not be the largest in New Mexico, but it is one of the few places in the planet where you can climb from the desert floor to alpine tundra in a single day. the trailheads are often quite full, but the network is extensive and well marked; before long, the crowds thin and you are left in your own company.  visiting one of the high altitude, glacier carved alpine lakes is strenous, sure; but the thin air up there smells of wet earth and cold rain. of pine and balsam wood. a cool sixty degrees throughout the day as the desert heat bakes the valley below to nearly ninety. 

hiking back down. it's easier to see details missed when focus was locked into the climb, to take the forest in. the music of the creek, the melodies of the birds above and other critters around. Santa Fe Baldy poking out between a stand of aspen. a golden eagle soars overhead, its piercing call briefly silencing the birdsong. lizards scurry between rocks near a waterfall and disappear into the shadows. you can hear and smell animals you will never see, and that's alright by them. 

back in camp, one relaxes and settles in despite the occasional car passing by. there is a strange nobility to places that prioritize access to exclusivity. some things are meant to remain shared. this place is only a bit closer to heaven than Santa Fe is, but that's all it needs to be. 

A Bit Closer to Heaven: Hyde Memorial State Park - New Mexico