Pre-2015 Classic solenoid dead after 3D printed switch housing / KCD6 swap. Piggyback adapter too tight to boiler, GaggiMate too expensive right now. Options?

Hey everyone,

I’m rebuilding a pre-2015 Gaggia Classic and could really use some sanity-checking / advice from anyone who has tackled the front switch wiring or housing mods.

The Situation & Problem:

• My original single-block OEM switch bank failed.
• I replaced the stock enclosure with a 3D-printed front switch housing holding individual rocker switches.
• The boiler gets hot and water streams out of the steam wand fine, but the brew solenoid isn't magnetizing or opening at all.
• The issue is the wiring/logic at the middle (Steam) KCD6 switch. Because a standard 4-pin KCD6 lacks the internal jumpering/bridges of the original staggered Gaggia switch block, power isn't reaching the solenoid feed.

Where I'm Stuck / Why My Options Feel Unworkable or too risky:

1. The Piggyback Jumper Fix: To bridge Live to both inputs on the 4-pin KCD6, I need a piggyback jumper lead. However, the clearance between the back of the 3D-printed switch enclosure and the hot aluminum boiler is razor-thin. Stacking piggyback spade connectors pushes the stiff insulated wires right up against the boiler wall, which feels like a total fire/short hazard.
2. Buying the OEM Switch Assembly: The pre-2015 single-piece 3-switch block is £40–£45+ across UK suppliers (Shades of Coffee, Espresso Shop, etc.), which feels like total extortion for a basic rocker block.
3. The GaggiMate Pro Route: I’d love to install a GaggiMate Pro eventually, but with the kit + scale + £15 shipping from Europe, I'm looking at around £255 total. I really don't want to drop £255 right now just to fix a basic switch issue, and I'm paranoid I'll drop the money only to find out I still have a wiring bottleneck elsewhere.

My Questions for the Sub:

• Has anyone successfully wired standard 4-pin (or 6-pin) KCD6 rockers into a 3D-printed Classic faceplate without running into boiler clearance issues? How did you route/bridge your Live feed?
• Is there a clean way to split/splice the harness further back in the machine so two slim female spades arrive at the switch rather than stacking bulky piggyback adapters right behind the switch?
• Should I just bite the bullet on the OEM switch, or is there a smarter low-clearance wiring trick I'm missing?