[The More You Know] Vitamin C Serum FAQs
What is Vitamin C Serum?
Vitamin C Serums are most commonly made with L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA), which is the active ingredient that I will be writing about today. Serums typically have higher concentrations of LAA when compared to it’s cream/lotion based counterparts. When starting out using a vitamin c serum it is a good idea to gradually increase usage from a lower percentage (10%) and application times(1-2 days) to higher percentages(15-20%) and more frequent application (2x daily).
What Does Vitamin C Serum Do?
Vitamin C Serum is one of the few products that will actually deliver what it promises on the box. Do keep in mind that it can take several months (6+) before results are fully realized.
- Rich antioxidant properties that repair and renew the cells to give skin a healthier look.
- Stimulates the creation of collagen in the skin which produces tighter and firm skin. Excellent for treatment and prevention of the onset of aging wrinkles.
- Manages and removes free radical damage on the skin. PIH can be reduced with the use of LAA
- Thickens the dermis layer of skin which helps prevent the harmful effect of the sun. This does not replace your sunscreen think of it more of a ‘booster’ that assists your sunscreen.
How Do You Use Vitamin C Serum and Where In My Routine Do I Use It?
LAA Vitamin C Serums are best used on clean skin before any other products are applied. If using a higher pH cleanser allow 15 minutes afterwards to allow your skin to return to a normal pH level before applying Vitamin C Serum. If you use a pH adjusting toner after cleansing, allow enough time for it to completely dry on the skin before applying Vitamin C Serum.
How much product you use is going to vary for each person and by product as well, this will be something each individual will need to experiment with and find out what works with their skin.
Take your serum and either use your clean fingers or a cotton pad to spread it over your face. Allow a minimum of 15 minutes after application for your skin to absorb the serum before moving onto the next step in your routine. Your skin should fully absorb the product, if you end up with a film on your skin you will need to reduce the amount of serum used.
To make this simple: Cleanser>Vitamin C Serum>pH Dependant Acids>Rest of Routine
Keep in mind that you can use your BHA/AHA products before your Vitamin C Serum though it may reduce the efficacy. This is purely a personal choice as to which way you layer your pH dependant products with Vitamin C Serum.
What Color Should My Vitamin C Serum Be?
Vitamin C Serums are usually clear or tinted similar to champagne. There are some companies that add dye into their serums that darkens the color though I would be wary of such formulas as this could hide oxidization. When you’re serum changes begins to yellow and eventually brown it is a tell-tale sign of oxidization.
Do I Still Want To Use It If It’s Changed Colors (Oxidized)?
When Ascorbic Acid oxidizes it changes to dehydroascorbic acid (DHAA), which then changes the color of your serum from that clear-champagne tone down to a deep brown/red based on the level of oxidation.
Is DHAA harmful to the skin itself? No. Using a serum with slight yellowing isn’t as bad as it’s made out to be, though it may begin irritating your skin due to the higher concentrations of DHAA. If your serum has changed to a dark color I would suggest to not use it due to the high probability of irritation.
How Should I Store My Vitamin C Serum?
Because LAA is highly susceptible to oxidization from light, oxygen and temperature, it is best kept in a dark colored container that is mostly (or even fully) opaque. Vitamin C Serum should be kept in a cool dark place, like a potato! Most serums are fine with being stored in the fridge, but there are some companies out there that advise their products should not kept refrigerated (Paula’s Choice C15).
Why Is My Skin Orange?
If you apply too much serum to your skin it can leave a slight film that is not absorbed. This residue can oxidize and turn you a nice shade of oompa-loopma if you are not careful. The best way to avoid having this effect is to use less product and wash your hands after application.
What Other Ingredients Does It React To?
On occasion you will hear about niacinamide when the topic of Vitamin C Serums come up. So what will happen when you use both? When both products are mixed it effectively renders both compounds useless and can cause the skin to flush because of the reaction. If you are compelled to use the two ingredients together try to use them at night time and wait 30 minutes between applications so the pH of the skin may return to a normal level and limit the interaction between the two compounds.
"Accumulation of Vitamin C (Ascorbate) and Its Oxidized Metabolite Dehydroascorbic Acid Occurs by Separate Mechanisms (*)." Accumulation of Vitamin C (Ascorbate) and Its Oxidized Metabolite Dehydroascorbic Acid Occurs by Separate Mechanisms. Accessed September 22, 2014. http://www.jbc.org/content/270/21/12584.abstract.
"Journal of Nutritional Science and VitaminologyVol. 54 (2008) No. 4 P 315-320." Vitamin C Activity of Dehydroascorbic Acid in Humans —Association between Changes in the Blood Vitamin C Concentration or Urinary Excretion after Oral Loading—. Accessed September 22, 2014. https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jnsv/54/4/54_4_315/_article.
"Photochemical Interaction of Ascorbic Acid with Riboflavin, Nicotinamide and Alpha-tocopherol in Cream Formulations." - Ahmad. Accessed September 22, 2014. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00690.x/abstract.
"ReCverin Absorption Study PDF.pdf - Microsoft Word Online." ReCverin Absorption Study PDF.pdf - Microsoft Word Online. Accessed September 22, 2014. https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?resid=48A1F91A6EB8FAC9!115&ithint=file,pdf&app=WordPdf&authkey=!AFHfRMwGlGorzcc.
"Result Filters." National Center for Biotechnology Information. Accessed September 22, 2014. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19165821.
"Revitalizing Aging Skin with Topical Vitamin C - Life Extension." LifeExtension.com. Accessed September 22, 2014. http://www.lef.org/magazine/mag2009/may2009_Revitalizing-Aging-Skin-with-Topical-Vitamin-C_01.htm.
"Should Niacinamide and L-Ascorbic Acid Be Used Together? - FutureDerm." FutureDerm. Accessed September 22, 2014. https://www.futurederm.com/2012/10/25/should-niacinamide-and-l-ascorbic-acid-be-used-together/.
"Solution Phase Interaction of Nicotinamide with Ascorbic Acid." - Guttman. Accessed September 22, 2014. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/jps.2600521006/abstract.
Posted Sep 22, 2014, 7:42 PM UTC · edited