tigeraidCanadian NAPA Parts Guy•

That's a perfectly cromulent fastener.

Seriously, this is why I'm dreading doing exhaust manifolds on my old '96 F150. Low mileage but it's had some loooong winters.

6
boxjohn•

Just say fuckit and get headers and exhaust. Or at least all replacement parts.

6
KennyMcCormick315I own all my project cars :P•

Seriously, this is why I'm dreading doing exhaust manifolds on my old '96 F150. Low mileage but it's had some loooong winters.

Is it at risk of setting itself on fire? No? Don't worry about 'em. -An '85 F150 owner.

3
wobbly-sausageASE Certified•

Sometimes I love the rust belt (always have work)...Sometimes I fucking hate the rust belt. I don't mind doing exhaust manifolds on GM's or Ford trucks, But when I'm sitting there for an hour trying to get one broken stud out of the block is when I want to throat punch everyone. Don't even get me started on brake and fuel lines...

5
campogShade Tree•

I've been doing brake lines on a '01 Oldsmobile and I don't even understand how people normally get these flange nuts off a rust belt car. Mine have all rusted so much that they are about a half size smaller than my flange wrench and give you about 30 degrees of play before you even put any force on them.

I've ended up cutting the lines right above the nut on most of them and hammering a socket on.

2
boxjohn•

Cutting it off is often what the pros do. Part of the inflated cost for brake lines is use of the torch, random little brackets, etc.

2
matchtaste•

GM likes their metric brake fittings... so make sure you got some metric line wrenches.

And cutting them off is the way to go. Chances are the line is seized to the inside of the fitting and will just twist anyway even if you do get the fitting to break loose from whatever component. I like to cut them off and use a 3/8 drive butterfly impact with a deep socket to get them out.

Incidentally, this also works backwards when you are trying to change a flex hose and the line is alright but the nut is seized to the line.... I cut the end of the line enough with a cutoff wheel to put a big screwdriver in the slot to split it and then spin the line off. Then take the clamping part from your flaring tool and put it on the line just behind the nut. Turn down the air pressure and put the impact on it.... the corrosion will break up and the nut will start spinning on the line and life is good again.

1
FixshitOP•

I do A LOT of brake and fuel lines, still hate it but I got a hydraulic flaring tool from Matco that makes it soo easy. It's really expensive (about $600 IIRC) but I'd say it has easily paid itself off. It does most brake and fuel line flares and I've made EVAP lines with it too.

1
FixshitOP•

As you can imagine, extracting those "studs" was pretty fun. Of course the customer thinks they're getting ripped off when we charge a half hour to do it, "but you're just changing 2 bolts, it should be like $5 right?"

3
BrandonEHiltonMAXXFORCE YAH•

You should explain that the toothpicks have become one with the manifold and need to sign a lot divorce papers so its not going to take 5mins

5
dacutty•

Is there a crack behind the flange on the manifold side or is that just a shadow in the picture?

2
FixshitOP•

That's just a shadow, there is a small hole in the front pipe but two new studs had that thing quiet as can be.

3

What type of vehicle?

-1
FixshitOP•

Early 2000s F-150

3

Nothing rots like a Ford!

3
fretsurfer12•

There's always toyota

5
[deleted]•

[deleted]

1