Last week I had a terminator, now I have a squad. C&C Appreciated.
imgur.com/a/2JLdYPosted Jan 28, 2016, 6:12 PM UTC
Posted Jan 28, 2016, 6:12 PM UTC
Paint still looks a little globby in places, but overall looks pretty good!
You could probably do well with some washes to help shade some parts.
Was that airbrush you used for the power sword? It looks really cool!
I have a Badger Renegade. I'm not sure if I would really recommend it as it clogs quite a bit with many of the paints I've used.
I'm still pretty new to painting. I've tried thinning my paints more to avoid any globbing, but they tend to just run all over the place at that point. I use mostly Reaper paints with a few GWs. The GWs tend to be much thicker than Reaper.
Thin your GW paints more. It is better to do 2 or 3 thin coats than 1 normal coat. It will take a bit longer but the results are worth it.
How are you thinning your paints?
For GW paints, I usually do a 1:1 ratio (or as close as I can) by getting a brushload of paint, wiping it onto my palette, then rinsing, drying, and then getting a brushload of clean water and mixing it in with the paint on the palette. Sometimes I have to get 2 brushloads of water if it isn't holding much water. If you have a dropper, I imagine a drop of clean water to a 0 or 00 size brushload of paint would achieve the same effect.
I'm thinning with liquitex matte medium on a wet palette. I usually just put a drop of paint on the palette and mix in some matte medium.
I've tried distilled water, but it always seems so thin that as soon as it touches the model, it just goes other places it shouldn't be.
How thick was the material you used for your base? Was that cork?
Yeah it's cork. A few mms thick.
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Could use some shade on the purity seals they're a bit too plain and maybe some more "writing" on them with a few more streaks of black.
They look really good! I'd say the only thing left to do is take a shade paint, probably Agrax Earthshade, and put it in the recesses of the armor to give it a little more depth. The silver wings on the captain could use another coat or a highlight on the wings. Nice work!
They have a pretty light wash of Agrax Earthshade already. I didn't want to go overboard, because one thing I've found that I really dislike on models is when the shade layers look super obvious (wet looking?) I did some shading with the airbrush when I did the base coat. I'm thinking on my next models I'll shade more dramatically with the air brush.
With the bone white I would consider actually trying a sepia toned wash with maybe a little mix of agrax earth shade.
Overall they look good. Definitely a table top quality paint job.
Sorry it was actually Seraphim Sepia wash. I used the Agrax on the brass parts and the storm bolters I believe.
With sepia washes I generally don't lighten them up. When doing golds/brasses I wash them sepia rather than agrax. It really brings out the color.
http://i.imgur.com/1RBB7xX.jpg
For the armor I did a thin coat or 2 of warplock bronze. Once dried I drybrushed copper. The next drybrush was a light drybrush of runefang steel. After everything is set I wash heavily with seraphim sepia. You can achieve gold with the same technique I listed above, just drybrush gold after the copper layer. After applying the gold then you lightly drybrush with a light silver for highlights. Apply seraphim sepia and you are set.
For whites and off whites I suggest you wash heavy in the crevices and leave the flat areas alone. Cleaning up whites are a big pain in the butt.
Try mixing 50/50 agrax/nuln oil for you silvers. I do 50/50 agrax/nuln oil with a few drops of rubbing alcohol to thin the wash even more (most people use the GW Lahman Medium). Slap all over the silver bits and let it dry. I don't even have to highlight my silvers.
Forgot to comment on the sword. SPOT ON! The sword looks great!