Source
r/3Dprinting•
classymathguy

Please recommend a printer/software

Discussion

Sorry for the wall of text! I might be overthinking this. Or underthinking it, not sure. I've read the FAQ, but I still have some questions.

I'm looking for a 3D printer; I have used one before, but it belonged to my university, and I don't really know what distinguishes printers from each other.

I'm trying to stay under $1000; around or under $600 would be great.

I'm really into ultralight backpacking, and one big use of the printer would be making lightweight camp gadgets; I'd like to be able to print things that are small, light, and have decent structural integrity. I think that means I need to use ABS plastic with high fill, but I don't know whether filament size or resolution are relevant. I would love some input on that.

Other than that, I'd probably just make trinkets and math-art. I'd like to print my own designs, so I'd like to use software that includes almost "free-hand" design, but can also use parameterization. I wanna say I used sketch-up last time, and I think it had both of these options.

One thing I'm unclear on is how compatible printers tend to be with different filaments and software. I see not all printers will work with all design software: is this something I should consider when selecting a printer, or should software choice be secondary? Am I correct in my understanding that printing ABS is harder than printing PLA, and requires a heated bed, and that some do only PLA but others do both?

I'm not sure I understand the qualities I should be looking for in an extruder.

I guess some other potentially significant details are:

  • I would be using this printer in a small apartment

  • I'm on Windows

  • I'm in North America

  • I would be willing to assemble the printer, but I'd prefer not to have to.

A few printers I have been considering are:

Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank you!

Posted Oct 8, 2016, 4:39 AM UTC

1021
KevMag•

Here are my recommendations:

Monoprice Maker Select V2 ($316 with free shipping from Amazon)

Borosilicate glass bed and Aquanet Superhold hairspray ($15) helps in preventing premature spontaneous balding.

Micro-Swiss all metal hotend for printing high temp materials.(~$37)

PETG and Nylon (require all metal hotend), both much stronger than ABS. Usually no enclosure needed.

Autodesk Fusion 360 for creating models (free for students/hobbyists)

Cura for a free slicer.

optional Simplify 3D slicer ($150) for more powerful support generation.

Throw in a $35 Pi3 for local and remote browser control with USB or Pi camera monitoring. Also eliminates microSD hassles.

This is well below your budget therefore leaving more money for filament and tools. With a few simple and cheap/free mods (z braces, better cooling fan and duct, thumbwheels, adjustable z endstop) this printer will meet or exceed any of the printers that you listed (not sure about the LulzBot, they have a reputation of being very good out of the box).

5
coolmattyUltimaker 2+ & Modded Simple Metal•

PETG does not require an all-metal hotend, it can print at the same temps as ABS just fine.

2
tlucas•

I've found that it needs to be a bit hotter. I print most of my PETG at 244-247C.

2
coolmattyUltimaker 2+ & Modded Simple Metal•

That's doable on non metal. I use 245C on my ultimaker 2 just fine.

1
KevMag•

I print Hatchbox and MakerGeeks PETG at 260C.

2
coolmattyUltimaker 2+ & Modded Simple Metal•

That is insanely high. I use 245C on Maker Geeks. How in the world do you handle the stringing at that high??

1
KevMag•

MG recommends 260C, HB 240-260C. I seem to print most filaments higher than anyone else (HB PLA at 210C, Taulman bridge at 260, MG and HB ABS @255) with 3 different printers so I don't think that it is a thermistor issue. When dialing in the temps I start low and increase until destructive testing shows no delamination. Believe it or not, HB stringing is not a problem at all with 1mm retraction @ 30mm/sec. MG tends to string a little bit. It also seems to help nozzle blobs.

1
classymathguyOP•

Thank you for your detailed response!

1
MrRemjLulzbot Mini•

I chose a Mini after some research. I wanted to spend more time designing models and printing, and didn't want the risk of constant fixes.

I did a lunch interview with a friend of a friend, to get a feel for his experiences. He liked to tinker more (with his kit) to get better results, but the conversation was useful. Some of the things that the Lulzbot Mini has, which I've appreciated:

  • The PEI board eliminates the need for hairspray/tape
  • Heated bed (heating pad, topped with glass, topped with a sturdy PEI sticker)
  • Auto-levels at the start of every print
  • Scrubs the tip of leftover filament as part of startup

(If these things are common on kits, that's great news.)

It uses 3mm filament instead of 1.75mm (more common, which means more companies making for you...better variety, but there are reasonable 3mm filaments). I started with PLA, drifted into HIPS, love PETG. eSun's PETG is nice...also haven't been disappointed with the inexpensive MakerGeek PETG. (I print indoors, so haven't printed with ABS out of caution.)

I've been regularly printing for a year with no down time, beyond replacing the PEI sticker 3 times(?)...mostly my fault, once might have been wear. 30 minutes fix, no mechanical skill needed. Calibration doesn't seem to be a problem (I haven't ever). Maintenance was well-documented and trivial. Aleph Objects offered solid, friendly customer service for any questions that came up with the printer.

As far as being in an apartment - PLA can smell like waffles. I don't really notice a smell for PETG, and HIPS was fine. The sound is a constant lightweight motor....my girlfriend can sleep through it in the same room.

Unless something talks about proprietary printer software, you can probably use whatever slicer you prefer. Cura & Slic3r are free. I ended up using Blender to avoid learning multiple tools. (You can even play around with Cura without being attached to a printer, if you want a feel for it.)

And I'd suggest reading threads about buying a printer...maybe check out some youtube reviews - this was one of the final sells for me. Thomas Sanaderer reviewing a Lulzbot Mini

Good luck!

5
classymathguyOP•

Thank you, that's very helpful!

1
ThatOnePersonmaker select•

Prusa i3 mk2 +200$ for assembled one.

Am I correct in my understanding that printing ABS is harder than printing PLA, and requires a heated bed, and that some do only PLA but others do both?

Yeah ABS needs a headed bed to prevent warping while it cools and shrinks while PLA doesn't shrink as much as it cools.

Other than that, I'd probably just make trinkets and math-art. I'd like to print my own designs, so I'd like to use software that includes almost "free-hand" design, but can also use parameterization. I wanna say I used sketch-up last time, and I think it had both of these options.

If you like math/programming, take a look at openSCAD.

3
GarageDIY•

I ordered a prusa i3 mk2 kit on the 25th of september with a lead time of 3 business days, it's been 10 without a peep. Makes me think ordering now with a lead time of 4-5 weeks (35 business days?) actually means you'd get the assembled printer sometime in Q1 of 2017.

2
classymathguyOP•

Thank you, I'll check that out!

1
xakhPrintrbot SMv1, Rostock Max V2 w/E3dV6, LunchRap•

Get the Original Prusa i3 MK2. Also, for camping gear, ABS gets janky when left in UV light for extended periods, so using it for anything you'd use outdoors could be iffy. I'd go with PET variants, or maybe HTPLA.

If you want the most "by hand" you can get in a modeling program, it's hard to beat Blender. However, it has a learning curve more akin to a cliff, and really has a hard time making things constrained to real world measurements. If you just want to dive in and get started, you could use TinkerCAD, though.

3
jebbaLulzBot•

Get the Original Prusa i3 MK2

Unless, they are going to spring for a LulzBot, I second this, especially compared to the others on that list.

3
classymathguyOP•

Thanks much!

1
jebbaLulzBot•

ABS and PLA are most common because they were the first materials available. Nowadays there are typically far better suited materials for various applications (especially ABS). PLA looks pretty, but if it isn't very thick, it breaks easily (it doesn't bend/flex, it just kind of shatters). If you want something extremely strong and rigid check out Polymaker PC-Max. If you want something strong and more flexible, check out the nylons from Taulman. Nylons are probably best suited for camping, like Alloy 910 or PCTPE.

3
classymathguyOP•

Thank you, that's very helpful!

2
tormodhau•

Right now the Original Prusa i3 Mk2 is considered one of the best printers around, competing with machines like the Ultimakers while staying well below the 1000$ price point. I would also advice you to buy the from the original vendor, as since you will know that what you get is of high quality.

I would recommend you to stay away from ABS altogether. There are simply many other materials out there that do not come with the printability issues of ABS, while being equally strong. PET/PETG and modern PLA variants beat ABS in most aspect, in my opinion. Oh, and btw, it might be worth considering to buy non-knock-off filament: preferably get a renowned brand. Poor filament can be a real pain to work with.

2
classymathguyOP•

Thanks much!

1