Recommendations for a Track Bike
Hoping to get some insight on this:
MY first bike was a SV650, AK-20s, Penske, upgraded brakes etc. I had thousands of miles on it and was a solid middle B group rider. For example, at Hallett I was doing 1:35s.
After a couple years, since it was the only bike I had tracked, I was getting an itch for something new... so I sold it and bought an ex CMRA 07 CBR600RR fully decked out. That was in 2014.
I've been doing track days off and on since then (missed entire 2015) and I just can't get comfortable on the bike. The seating position "on top" vs the "in" that the SV was, the power band is terrible, it doesn't want to turn... in fact, the only thing I do like about it are the brakes. I've had other people ride it and they tell me its set up incredibly well, I just don't like it and can't get comfortable on it. At Hallett, the best I could manage was a whopping 1:50+.
Both bikes were rebuilt and set up for my weight by RaceWorx in Dallas, the CMRA standard for suspension.
So I'm going to slap a for sale sign on it and use it until someone buys it... but I can't figure out what to replace it with. I miss the SV, I miss how comfortable I was on it, passing people on the outside of turns, and could do whatever I want. I don't have that feeling anymore and it's really affecting my confidence.
So what bike is next? I am looking at Ducati 899/959s because they're a twin, but having mental blocks about a Panigale track bike. I don't want a liter bike because tire cost/warmers/that whole jazz. I am considering the 2013+ 636s, but they're still an i4 and only marginal midrange. I'd like to try a 2013+ 675R but I've never found one around me and can't find anyone really recommends them. GSXR-750s seem to be in the middle, and are a possibility.
All in all, I'm at a loss. Do I go back to an SV? Are the 899/959s good track bikes? Do I suck it up and spend another season on the CBR? Any input is appreciated.
Posted Apr 10, 2017, 4:40 AM UTC · edited
Sounds like the bike is fucked up gearing wise or engine wise and geometry wise. If you are decent enough on an SV, there is no way you should be slower on a 600cc bike.
The beauty of modern sportbikes is that they are infinitely adjustable, and you can tailor it to your riding style.
The first thing I would do is make sure its running correctly, take it to a dyno shop and have them do a dyno run.
Then I would look at the gearing. If you find yourself in low-mid rpm range coming out of corners, you probably need to go down in the teeth on the front and/or up in the rear.
If the bike doesn't want to turn, it a geometry issue. It could be set up for hard braking while you are used to having corner speed. First make sure that you steering head bearings are in good shape. Secondly, jack up the rear ride height a few millimeters and see if the bike turns better. If it does, keep on doing this until you get it to a sweet spot. If it gets worse, that means that your front spring rates are too soft and the front end is collapsing, shortening the wheel base and putting too much weight on the front wheel.
If you feel like you are running out of lean angle, raise the front and the rear of the bike.
In my experience of tuning race bikes, I haven't come across one yet that was impossible to set up for the rider.
I have never done geometry adjustments, but there's a local track suspension specialist. I will easily trade turn in speed at the sacrifice of braking. Definitely not running out of lean angle, I have to go faster for that again, lol.
(I miss knee scraping...)
Other thing is tires. Different types can change how the bike behaves. I suggest pirelli supercorsas sc1s.
Get that geometry straight. My CBR has quite a bit of rear height added and forks dropped a little. Hondas tend to be really stable stock, trying to get it neutral to slightly unstable takes some adjusting. I try to get my bikes to be neutral mid corner to where I can basically let go and it will keep tracking. A CBR with stock geometry will try to stand up mid corner.
Gearing is also key, I have several different front and rear sprockets I change out depending on how tight the track is. -1/+2 for tighter tracks and stock/+2 for more open tracks is a good start. Stock gearing is pretty tall and I use it for only really open tracks. You'll know the gearing is about right when you just hit the top of 6th on the front straight before needing to brake (given it has a long enough one...some don't).