[QUESTION] Relationship between truss rod, bridge height and action
I'm trying to understand the relationship between truss rod, bridge height, nut height and action better. The guitar in question has a 0 fret, so that takes the nut out for now.
The maker recommends a setup of 0.010" relief (measured at the 12th fret with capo on 1st, holding 24th), with 2mm string height on low E, 1.5mm height on high E.
This seems to be a pretty common starting point for most guitars. I struggle with legato with this setup and wanted to drop it a fraction. In this case do I want to reduce relief, string height, or combination of both?
I tried straightening out a little, and very slightly reducing string height. This feels much more playable to me, however I get small fret buzz in the middle of the neck 7th - 10th frets across all strings. I can live with it for now, but it definitely does seem to hurt the sustain.
What would be be your advice for lowering the action from the factory suggested settings?
Edit: straightened the neck, and some of the frets aren't level. So it's going to have to go to the luthier to level and setup. Appreciate all the replies!
Posted Apr 26, 2017, 8:00 AM UTC · edited
Action & bridge heights are directly correlated, truss rod-usage only sideways. The trussrod dials in the relief (curvature) of the neck, necessary for the string to vibrate freely without slamming into the frets creating buzz. There are "manufacturers opinions" regarding how much relief there should be, but in the end it boils down to your personal preference, how you play and what strings you use. If you use heavy strings and hit them like a gorilla on steroids, you're going to need a bit more relief than when you play with very light strings and stroke them with a feathery touch.
Action & bridge height are directly correlated. Since the bridge sits twice as far from the nut as the 12th fret, you can use trigonometry to get in the right ballpark. For example, with the relief already dialed in to your preference, if you have an action of X mm at the 12th fret, and you want to lower it to X-Y mm, you have to lower the bridge 2Y (so if you want one mm closer at the 12th fret, it means lowering it 2mm at the bridge).
Also a factor that is often overlooked is the fretboard radius. A curved fretboard requires a bit higher action, to offset the fact that the fretboard curves towards the string (you may have an action of 2mm directly underneath the string, but that can become 1.8mm when you measure a bit closer towards the middle of the fretboard). The flatter the radius, the lower you can make your action without buzzing.
In your situation, a relief of 0.010" (0.25mm in non-retarded units from the top of my head) is a good starting point. A little fretbuzz doesn't hurt (especially when playing electric, and it doesn't sound through the amplifier). What I would do is revert the straightening of the neck back to 0.010", and lower the saddles a bit. That should give you a lower action without buzzing at the 7-10 position. For sustain: use heavier strings. Heavier strings have more mass, more mass dampens slower, thus increases sustain.
Thanks for the detailed reply, really appreciated it.
That all makes sense, I have a light to medium touch, and I'm on 10-46, with the fanned frets this is about the ideal tension for me, I'll try what you suggested.
I try to leave a day between truss rod tweaks (never do more than 1/4 a day anyway), just in case so I'll give it a bash after work.
Thanks. I'm going to save this for future reference, just in case!!!
True, but all other things being equal, heavier strings require less neck relief.