Making 9mm Makarov from 9mm Luger

Making 9mm Makarov from 9mm Luger

Posted Jul 4, 2017, 1:51 AM UTC

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OGIVEPretty Boy Brian has 37 pieces of flair•

How do you remove the nickel plating?

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VolucrisOPWill work for components.•

Sacrifice one virgin per 37 cases. Then soak in coyote urine for four minutes while playing careless whisper in reverse on a walkman.

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ChucklesSovietly•

That's ridiculous. Who has a walkman these days?

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soggybottommanLee Loadmaster 9mm/357/45acp/30-30/223/357 Herrett/8mm Mauser•

2 words: elbow grease

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[deleted]•

[deleted]

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OGIVEPretty Boy Brian has 37 pieces of flair•

Go back to r/guns

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VolucrisOPWill work for components.•

A recent post inspired me to share an old guide I created back when 9mm Makarov ammo had dried up in the US. Making Makarov ammo is one of the easiest cartridge conversions you can do.

Take 9mm Luger fired cases, expand the mouth out to the larger 9mm Makarov size, size the case with a Makarov die, and then trim to length. Bell again and seat your chosen poison. Then proceed to lose your brass because blowback Mak pistols throw brass into the next county.

As to why you flare? For a reason I don't fully understand, if you don't flare before sizing, the mouth doesn't open up and you can't trim to the right length easily.

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OGIVEPretty Boy Brian has 37 pieces of flair•

The Mak uses a .364 bullet, opposed to the .355 9x19 bullet. You need to first expand the case to the Mak dimensions before sizing in the mak die.

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SpareiChan38/357,300BLK,7.62x54r,7.5swiss,308W,45-70,9x18,9x19•

As OGIVE said the mouth size is different but I will also note that 9MM Luger and 9MM Makarov have the same base diameters but the Luger is a tampered case where as Makarov is a true straight wall case.

I also convert and load 9mmM using Lee-365-95 mold and PC the bullets. Worst part is finding the brass after you fire it................

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OGIVEPretty Boy Brian has 37 pieces of flair•

It it possible to reduce the powder charge and reduce the distance the brass is thrown?

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SpareiChan38/357,300BLK,7.62x54r,7.5swiss,308W,45-70,9x18,9x19•

Kinda, higher power loads will go farther but lower still get flung, you need higher power springs too.

I generally mark my headstamp using an ink pad so I know it's mine though so that does help.

I was using a mild load of 4gr unique under 100gr LRN and a standard weight spring and it was about 25ft away to my 4-5oc

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Plurilizeverthings•

Why would you flare the case before trimming?

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McFeely_Smackup•

What bout #7?

For the love of god man, what about number SEVEN!

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VolucrisOPWill work for components.•

There's a footnote on #6. That's where #7 lives.

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orbitup•

I hope I don't pick up any of your brass at the range.

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OGIVEPretty Boy Brian has 37 pieces of flair•

That is why I sort all my brass by standing it on its base. That way it I can pick out the 380 and MAK brass.

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InformationHorder.30 Carb, 375 WIN, 7.62x39, 32ACP•

You'd be picking up a lot of "9mm" brass that's a few thousands too short to be used again as 9mm, even if you did resize it.

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OGIVEPretty Boy Brian has 37 pieces of flair•

a lot

Maybe a few.

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VolucrisOPWill work for components.•

For pistol I load it all and spot it during a final chamber check pass. It's just too time consuming to sort 9mm and 380 apart.

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OGIVEPretty Boy Brian has 37 pieces of flair•

My Dillon shell plate will not hold a 380 during priming. I need to separate out the 380 first and load it for my PPK

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