My First Complete Overhauled Stryfe: Love to know if everything looks correct ?
imgur.com/a/IHKVm
imgur.comPosted Jan 10, 2018, 3:28 PM UTC
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imgur.com[deleted]
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I did twist the wires pretty tight before soldering. The Heat shrink over soldered joints i never though about that is a good idea. Thanks for your advice and feedback
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I do want to do another one and i would like to use a different Cage : I have a large supply of Rhinos and Meishals what cage would you recommend ?
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If you have access to a 3D printer, such as at a local library (in most cities), I recommend printing an OpenFlywheelProject cage. It's the cheapest option, and you can adjust performance depending on the spacing you choose between the motors. Even better, you can print the cage for cheap, and purchase the Morpheus guide which is a milled aluminum tube available from Nerf mod retailers such as Out of Darts on Etsy. The guide is designed to snap into the printed cages and provides higher accuracy.
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3d printing seems a little out of my comfort zone right now is there one i could buy that will match well with the motors i have? thanks for your feedback
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You can buy a 3d printed OFP cage from online retailers such as out of darts,Kelly industries, medic mods, but 3d printing is really not scary at all! As long as you have the file someone wherever the printer is can help you get it started i am sure.
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gonna have to look into some of these for sure i would like to add a cage on my next build
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Hello all,
I have just completed my first attempt at a full stryfe overhaul. Since this was my first time using Lipo's, t60 connectors, microswitch and of course hot glue LOL. I would really appreciate it if you could point out any errors you may see.
I had previously done 1 rewire with brit nerf's guidence :
I am concerned of of course since i have a 3 year old and a wife so since i am using a lipo i guess having an expert opinion if things look right would put my mind at ease.
Not to mention i want to add more electrical modding on my channel so knowing i am doing it right when i show my work would go along way so i don't give out poor information. ( i do not want to be that guy LOL )
I used 18 AWG Micro-switch Meishal 2.0 motors t-60 Zippy Lipo 3s 1000 compact ( i do have a balenced charger for the record have to learn how to use it LOL ) but we all start somewhere
Full Disclosure:
Since i had trouble soldering the red t60 i cut back the wire a couple times to start fresh and as a result had problems closing the battery door. I ordered a extended door from containment crew and it arrived so problem solved but mental note for next time.
Also the motor rubber straps tore and i think since i soldered on top of the terminal it cut the strap i know for next time but is that gonna be a problem the blaster seems to fire fantastic?
In the future is it better to solder on the side of the terminal ( on motors ?
Thanks n advance for your advice ?
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It's not recommended to run these on 3s, though it will work it's going to be a lot faster and noisier. Let us know if they burn out quick
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this blaster is very loud right now sounds like a custom Harley Davidson HAHAHAHAHA i would hate for these to burn out do you have a different battery you would suggest ?
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Zippy compact 2s 1000mah 40c should fit with the expanded door no problem it's thinner than your current pack.
2 meishel motors running are well under the current max but at a stall(jammed/not spinning with the Rev trigger depressed) they pull 19A each. This Lipo pack can handle 40A of current constantly so no worry.
I don't know what a meishel 2.0 will pull at stall on 3s so that's something to be concerned about.
The following is just my internet educated opinion.
The "c" is max current but the number in front of c is dependent on the capacity in Amp hours of the pack. In this case an even 1 amp hour of capacity multiplied by the discharge number of 40 is 40A. It's also rated for Burst of 50c. So the 3s 35c 1000mah pack your using only has a running discharge of 35A, but there's Burst discharge ratings that apply to a motor stall, 45c for that pack(as long as you don't stand there and hold down the Rev trigger telling it to go like it's a stalled car ignition.)
Do not charge it at the same rate, fast charging Lipo packs or charging without the balance connector attached to the charger is what gives the reputation for exploding battery packs, it's user error most of the time. Theres not a lot of video of drones bursting into flames in the air because the pack blows, it happens after on the charger. There's even a charging bag with self extinguishing layers to protect your life and property. Find charging "c" rate and do the same math if it says 2c you can charge a 1000mah pack at 2A, 1400mah would be 2.8A.
And get a voltage alarm, it'll tell you when the pack is low and your doing damage, the motors don't care if there's 6v left in the pack, they'll just spin slower. But it will do serious harm to the pack and charging damaged packs brings you back to user error induced explosion possibilities. There is no low voltage cut out built into the packs, just think what would happen if a dart jammed while the pack was low it's still going to try and pull 40A.
None of this is meant to scare you just know what your doing, it's not a kids toy once the warranty is voided and though so of us are engineers we aren't backing these mods up with a guarantee
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I really appreciate the time you took to write this and help me sorry i wasn't being rude just got back off a cruise with my wife and kid i was out of the country and had no access to internet ! Just wanted to let you know thanks for this post
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Looks like it. Since you're using the original flywheel cage, did you use a rotary tool to clean out the motor wells or did you just push the new motors in?
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used dremel to clean out
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The only issue I might see you running into is that you left the roller and the full length of the microswitch intact. Now, I can't see it function, so it may be fine, but it looks like the full length of the lever will come into contact with a shell rib when pressed, and may ultimately bend over time, which may or may not affect the effectiveness of your trigger pulls.
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Oh i took the picture before i cut it with a dremel ! Unfortunately i noticed it was gonna impact the trigger pull after i glued it in place. I did cut it shorter with a dremel for the record. But i had taken this photo before i did that thanks for pointing that out though
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- Get Heat Shrink for the connections.
- Practice making cleaner solder joints. It helps to get handy hands for this since the wires can get pretty hot. You can gob more solder on the wire and also get right up to the silicon.
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I've been told to not put my motors in series, rather put them like this. The idea is that the power is evenly distributed rather than the second motor (furthest from the battery in the circuit) only getting the leftover amps that the first motor doesn't use. That may be advice from a time when popular batteries couldn't deliver the required amps for two motors at stall and I don't have any solid evidence that it does make any difference with a modern setup. But I do it that way now just in case
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I had thought about that myself and wonder if it matters.
As far as I know the motors are still in parallel, not series as the current does not pass through one motor then the next, rather one motor simply taps into the current supply earlier than the other.
In a true series circuit the first motor would definitely spin faster than the next.
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Yup, they're in parallel in either situation, electricity doesn't quite flow like water. With such short reaches of wire it shouldn't make any difference so it mostly comes down to ease of soldering- I've tried both and prefer teh "t" but not everyone agrees.
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Hmmm Interesting i will see how mine hold up and if i have some problems maybe i change to your way
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If you painted the inside of the blaster, consider sanding the tips of the Shell posts. Those can get stuck together when you re assemble and be a problem the next time you try and open up the shell.
But looks like you did your research so you may already know that.
I learned that lesson the first time i ever painted a blaster i applied way to much inside and really struggled to get it back open lol funny you should say that BUT it is great advice. I now apply pretty light to cover 90 % and leave it at that if i notice a tight fit i go back and sand like you suggested thanks for the feedback