u/vernazza's unnecessarily long guide to Budapest

Information accurate as of Summer 2018.

If you find anything incorrect or would like to make requests, suggestions (or just want to say hi), please do that here! I would also greatly appreciate your post-trip feedbacks about whether my recommendations worked out for you or not! Restaurants, clubs can undergo radical changes and it's not always possible to keep track of every single one.

The local charity I support is the Hungarian Food Bank Association. For every €1 donated they are able to save €30 worth of food from disposal and have it reach people most in need. Please consider donating to them.

Some links use URL-shorteners, so I could track how many of you are using this guide. Nothing fishy waiting for you behind them.

See my suggestions in the comments below about:

• Restaurants – Where to eat in the city

• Clubbing, cultural and sport events – Beautiful people, pub crawls or dive bars?

• Shopping, services, health care - Good excuses to part with the last of your Forints

• Off the beaten path – atypical activities – if you have the time!

• Countryside tourism, regional travel – getting familiar with the rest of the country and more

Hungary has continental climate with 4 seasons. Summer is the main season, a slightly less busy time to visit is April to mid-June and September to October, but the weather is less predictable. Those uncomfortable with 30+C (>85F) temperatures should visit around then as 35+C (>95F) is not uncommon in the summer. November through March has -5 to 10 (20-50F) and possibly gloomier weather – but fewer tourists.

Currency: the Hungarian Forint (HUF, Ft). Banknotes are being redesigned by the National Bank to improve security. You might be handed two different versions of the 1.000 and 10.000 denominations – both are valid and accepted.

Citizens of [62 countries]( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_policy_of_the_Schengen_Area#Nationals_of_'Annex_II'_countries_and_territories_(visa_waiver_countries\)) do not require a visa to enter the Schengen Area and can stay for maximum 90 days within a rolling 180-day window. See here if you don’t know what that entails. EU member countries that are not members of the Schengen Area are Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Ireland, Romania and the United Kingdom, visits to these do not count toward your 90 days. Non-EU countries part of the Schengen Area are Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland, visits to these do count toward the cap.

Because we both know you want to do your own research, use:

• WeLoveBudapest, the definitive city magazine in English, from top lists to current events,
• Offbeat Budapest, a new site with the author’s finger very much on the city’s pulse,
• Catch Budapest, an enthusiatic local guide with a great free e-book,
• Spotted by Locals, for even more local insight. Their offline city guide is worth the $3.99.
• TripAdvisor, a small number of reviews might be bought, but no other site competes with their sheer volume of input. Be skeptical of places with unbalanced (90+% 5-star) reviews, the remaining ones should be accurate.
• Foursquare, with more local input than on TA,
• Wikivoyage, for your encyclopedic knowledge needs,
• Most threads on r/budapest and a couple more on r/hungary, which you can search like this,

Get hyped in 4K, with Richard Ayoade, with Emirates or Rick Steves.

However nothing beats having a physical guidebook in your hand! Lonely Planet has the best and most recent issue.

Read up on the concept of coconut and peach cultures, as sometimes the reserved and distant behaviour of locals can be misinterpreted by ‘peach’ visitors as rudeness – nope!

This is a comprehensive itinerary, but leaves out the best museum of the city: the House of Terror, a solemn museum of the Nazi and Soviet terror (get the audio guide or be prepared to peruse dozens of pages of pamphlets). When you are around Deák Ferenc tér, drop by in the Tourinform office (Sütő utca 2., the small street near the church) to stock up on free maps, printed guides of the city, like WLB's new one!

I suggest 4 full days to discover Budapest, or 3 faster paced ones. Make it 5-7 if you'd like to make a few daytrips (Szentendre - open-air ethnographic museum, cobblestoned, quaint center, Esztergom - Central Europe's largest cathedral and religious center, Visegrád - medieval castle, Eger - medieval castle and wine region). Most of Hungary’s highlights can be visited in 2 weeks. For more details on countryside and international trips, see my comment below.

Baths

Gellért is the most aesthetic, Széchenyi the largest and most popular among foreigners (Sparty can get crazy with lots of drinking, puking and sex going on in the pools, but it is wildly overpriced and 100% aimed at visitors). Rudas is a Turkish hamam with swimwear optional, single-gender weekdays (women-only on Tuesdays, coed and swimwear-mandatory on the weekend). Lukács is plain and personally I’m not a fan of it – tourists only visit it because it’s included free with the Budapest Card. For more details on the baths, see this.

For off the beaten path sights, ride the D11 or D12 public boat lines for a cheap alternative to paid cruises (travelcards only valid on weekdays, otherwise 700Ft), check out the Pinball Museum, Hospital in the Rock or check out this section for a lot more off the beaten path ideas.

Shopping

Hungary has the world’s highest effective VAT (=sales tax) at 27%. Non-EU/EEA tourists are eligible for VAT refund on their qualifying purchases if they complete the paperwork (passport+reclaim form stamped by customs official).

The most popular and best accessible mall of the city is WestEnd on Nyugati tér. Arena Plaza is larger by floor area and carries a couple brands that can’t be found elsewhere, but is less centrally located. Don’t expect to find bargains on clothing or electronics, prices are similar to Western Europe and over North American or Asian ones.

For more information on shopping and VAT refund, see here.

Paprika Market is a decent souvenir shop in the sea of overpriced, terrible quality crap on Váci utca.

Magma Gallery for contemporary and affordable jewelry, ceramics and home decor items by local designers is just one street over on Petőfi Sándor utca.

For some charitable shopping, hit up Kabinet Galéria, a 'socially conscious gallery' and souvenir shop. Every item here is made by disadvantaged and/or disabled artists and all proceeds go toward supporting them. Near Blaha Lujza tér.

Check out the antique bookstores alongside Múzeum körút between Astoria and Kálvin tér, some have Socialist-era posters available for sale from 30€ and up, that could be a unique gift/home decor to take home. Ecseri road flea market for more antiques, go early on Saturdays.

Hungarian cuisine is hearty and filling, with a heavy use of meats. Must-try foods are:

• goulash: a beef soup with potatoes and carrots!

• pörkölt/paprikás: a thick stew without or with sour cream mixed in and what the rest of the world incorrectly believes goulash is – my favorite is catfish with curd cheese&dill noodles, though beef, chicken and the inferior pork are more commonplace

• roast sausage and blood sausage (hurka-kolbász): the breakfast of champions! Ideally eaten at an authentic butchershop like Pinczi or Balla with a side of pickled veggies, mustard (or horseradish) white bread and cold beer at 8am on a Saturday.

• everyone’s favorite street food, lángos: Hungarians only eat it with salt, garlic, sour cream and/or cheese, the Frankensteinian concoctions with sausage or kebab toppings are 100% aimed at tourists

• Somló trifle: a scrumptious walnut sponge dessert with chocolate sauce and whipped cream

• Chimney cake: a sweet, spiral pull-apart bread baked over charcoal, rolled in the topping of your choosing (typically nuts, cinnamon, vanilla sugar, cocoa, coconut flakes)

For authentic recipes, recommendations for recipe blogs or cookbooks, tips for cooking traditional Hungarian meals, see here

For edible souvenirs to bring home with you:

• Pick winter salami: only choose the original, typically ~6000/kg, comes in sizes of 380, 800 and 1250g and in trays (100 and 250g).

• Tokaji dessert wine: aszú being the premium product with the at least 4 puttony varieties suggesting quality, but they make regular whites as well, so check the label. Should cost at least 3-4000 per bottle. Suggested wineries: Disznókő, Oremus, Dereszla. Avoid: Royal Tokaji

• Beautifully packaged, premium pralines from Stühmer.

Grocery stores include Spar, Tesco, Aldi and Lidl. Avoid CBA and Coop, low quality for high prices. Small convenience stores, many 24/7, also dot the city at higher prices.

Alcohol is sold at every one, but some (mostly residential) districts enact a ban on the sale between 22.00-06.00. The central Pest districts don’t have such limitations in place.

Tobacco is sold at tobacconists (‘nemzeti dohánybolt’ ). These shops are also exempt from the evening alcohol sale ban if you find yourself in such a district. Flavored cigarettes are banned in Hungary, so no Black Devils or Sobranies.

Budgets (per person)

For reasonable comforts, I would suggest aiming for at least €50 per day excluding accommodation. Hotel prices significantly vary in and outside high season.

• Shoestring: <€50 (hostel dorm €10, attractions €5+, meals and entertainment €10+)

• Mid-range: €75-150 (1/2 of hotel room or great Airbnb €30+, attractions €20+, meals and entertainment €25+)

• In comfort: €150+ (1/2 of comfy hotel €75+, attractions €30+, meals and entertainment €50+)

Getting around

Do not buy the Budapest Card, it is not a bargain, even if every travel blogger seems to think otherwise! You would need to visit at least 3-4 museums a day to break even and the free visit to the pretty plain Lukács Baths could mean you’d deny yourself going to the much more beautiful and popular alternatives, such as Gellért or Széchenyi. The discounted museums are also second rate and typically not what most visitors choose to hit up.

Do buy a public transport travelcard, the 1, 3, 5 and 7-day unlimited options require no validation (a common reason for fines). Groups of 4 or can also buy the even more economical 24h group travelcard, but they always must travel together.

Ticket inspectors (must have an anonymized badge and armband) are notoriously brash, speak subpar English. You have to have a valid ticket whenever you enter a subway station, even if you aren’t on the trains (don’t miss the gates). Paying on the spot lets them give you a discounted fine of 8000 instead of the regular 16000 through postal order or wire transfer, they aren't looking to scam you if they offer you that. Fines are pursued internationally through collection agencies, multiplying the original amount once their fees are added.

Cheapest way to get to the city from the airport is by public transport. I suggest paying the 900Ft supplementary ticket for the 100E bus, as the subway line is under renovation at night and in the weekends, making the 200E bus + M3 subway option more of a hassle than it normally is. The purple ticket machines at the airport and all over the city take chipped cards.
Shuttle bus is a good compromise between price and comfort and depart when full or close to.

Ignore touts walking up to you offering taxis in the arrival hall, use the official Főtaxi booth immediately outside the building. Rates are centralized: flagfall 700Ft, 300Ft/km, 75Ft/min waiting. The fair price to the centre is around 7-9.000Fts. Rides inside the centre are typically under 3.000. All taxi companies have okay reputations with a few horror stories about each, Fotaxi (+36-1-222-2222), 6x6 Taxi (+36-1-666-6666), City Taxi (+36-1-211-1111) or legal Uber-alternative Taxify are a couple notable ones.

Uber is banned.

Most companies have apps, but they have terrible design and might set an unchangeable pick up location 5-10 minutes away from you. It’s much better to order by phone, they have English-speaking operators. If you must use an app, choose Taxify.

Scams

Cabbies are the only ones eclipsing the ticket inspectors in notoriety. I cannot emphasize enough: DO NOT USE THE ONES WITH ‘FREELANCER’ ON THE FRONT DOORS!!! These drivers are nicknamed 'hyenas', work independently, they always have rigged meters and are known to sometimes assault customers who don’t comply with their ridiculous demands. If you hail on the street, be absolutely certain you’re getting into a company cab (logo on the front doors). A known scam by the hyenas, fraudsters and illegal street exchangers is giving you worthless currencies with similarly high denominations as the Forint – the Indonesian Rupiah or the old Belarusian Ruble.

Bag handlers at the airport are known to steal from unsecured luggage. Never put any valuables in your checked luggage! This issue is expected to be cleared up soon following a media scandal.

Otherwise general safety cautions should be exercised: watch your valuables in crowded spaces for pickpockets, be wary of overly friendly strangers approaching you and introducing the idea of going to a club or bar by their 5th sentence or of people pretending to be authority.

Policemen typically wear dark blue uniforms and white shirts , sometimes with a visibility vest and can be identified by the numbered metal badges on their chest and their separate police ID card which you can ask to inspect before complying with their orders. Scammers use fake police IDs to part you with your cash under the guise of inspecting the notes for counterfeits. Always ask to see it first: this is real, this is fake – notice where the real one has a serial number, the fake says POLICE. If the issue is anything halfway serious, ask to be escorted to the nearest police station – it will scare away scammers playing dress up.

The emergency number is 112 for police, ambulance or firefighters (works in every EU member country).

If you get pickpocketed, notify both the police and in case of losing your travel documents, your embassy. Thieves are usually courteous enough to leave papers near trash bins, so walk around in the neighbourhood to see if you can recover them. If you find someone else’s, hand in to the nearest police station.

Getting around

the city is easy, Budapest has one of the best public transport systems of the continent. Use Google Maps for orientation and getting around! Tickets and passes with rates are listed here.

All EU/EEA citizens aged 65+ travel for free on all Hungarian public transport, including trains, distance buses. Picture ID and administrative 0 Ft ticket required. Age 65 is not included.

Student discounts are available to full-time students in EU/EEA countries with a valid student ID. If it doesn’t have it, also carry a picture ID. EU citizenship not required, you only need to study there full-time (not applicable for exchange students unless they get ID issued). The monthly student pass (3450) is cheaper than the 72h travel card (4150) for identical benefits.

The 4 subway lines are coded by numbers and, unofficially, colour (1-yellow, 2-red, 3-blue, 4-green). The busiest, M3 is under renovation until 2021, but remains in partial operation, see details here. It shuts down after 8pm and completely for the weekend (replacement buses operate), and one section is always out of service. For 2018 it’s the northern segment, between Újpest-központ and Lehel tér – usually little used by visitors. The fun times are due next year when the middle segment, going through the heart of the city, faces closure.

In Budapest driving is not recommended for the perpetual lack of parking spaces, congestion and because there's really no need to. If you must arrive by car, pick a hotel with parking, use Arena Plaza’s free, unguarded, 24/7 underground garage or opt for a more central location (such as CarE Park’s 7 sites ) at ~20€/24h, €100/week and do not use it for getting around in the city. Public areas are metered in the entire centre, typically charging 1.5€/h.

The Bubi city bike system is available for anyone’s use. The rates are very favourable (500Ft for 1-day, 1000 for 3 for the pass), but a deposit of €80 will be docked when you register and might take a few weeks to release. First 30 minutes are free, after it's 500Ft/30min on top of the daily pass' price.

Two e-car sharing systems compete in Budapest. I suggest using MOL Limo, as you can complete your licence verification remotely (do it before arrival, they might take a day or three if they are backlogged). Despite the name, the cars are tiny, automatic VW up!s, the majority electric and all automatic. Age limit 18, min. 1-year old national licence, foreign ones accepted, €20 registration fee and €0.25/min rate. Coverage includes basically every area of note to tourists in the centre, except the Castle and underground garages (as well as the airport). Expansion is planned for the future. You cannot park (leave the car) outside the coverage area, but you can drive through.

Sightseeing

The best rated tour bus company is Big Bus, Giraffe (aka. the red Hop On Hop Off ones) tends to get mixed-to-negative reviews. Segway tours also available.

Free thematic walking tours of the city depart in front of the lion fountain on Vörösmarty tér daily. Tip of 2000-2500Ft/person suggested, but they're are chill about it, you can give less if you're on a budget.

River cruises run during the day and the evening, including dinner (usually not great, save for one) or party in the latter case. The most popular is Legenda, partiers choose Boat Party.

One standout cruise is Pannónia Gastro Boat that goes above and beyond the standard quality of service of other operations and often host guest chefs from innovative countryside restaurants.

Public transport alternative is the D11 or D12 boat lines between Boráros tér going up to Népfürdő utca (or getting off at Jászai Mari tér or Margaret island 1 or 2 stops prior). Tram 2 between Jászai Mari tér and Boráros tér hugs the Danube on the Pest side and loops around the Parliament for a similarly nice experience. Seasonal operations, normally March through October.

Money

The currency of Hungary is the Hungarian Forint (1EUR=310HUF, 1USD=255HUF), but I’ve listed prices in Euros (€). 1€=1.25$ Check for current rates here.

Don't exchange Forints at home, bring USD/EUR/GBP in cash or a chipped card with you – the withdrawal fee is far smaller than what you’d lose by the atrocious rates available to you at home (exception: neighbouring countries).

Visa, Mastercard are best, Maestro, AmEx alright. Avoid Diners Club and other uncommon, non-European issues.

CAD/AUD/JPY will be exchanged at slightly worse rates, but still far better than if you’d do it at home.

When the ATM asks you if you want to be charged in your home currency, say no and opt for Forints! Learn more about the rip-off of dynamic currency conversion here.

Don't exchange any money with bright orange Interchange they use ripoff rates (>30% spread). They have monopoly at the airport and are also present throughout the city in premium locations, such as Váci utca. Street exchange is illegal.

Tons of fine currency exchanges around the city, such as Correct Change and City Change, but use your eyes: the buy/sell spread shouldn’t be more than 1-3% apart for these, or 2.5-5% at banks.

Phones

Make sure to bring an unlocked phone, ideally a dual-SIM one.

The 3 main carriers are Vodafone, Telekom (T-Mobile) and Telenor. Vodafone’s Tuti is the best pre-paid package. 5GB data add-on for ~3.600Ft to any of their pre-paid offers. SIM cards need to be activated after purchase, so buy them at brand stores where help is available instead of supermarkets or gas stations.

Roaming fees within the EU have been abolished in 2017, you will be able to use your SIM in any EU member country, but not as if it would be local. I.e. a Vodafone Hungary-issued SIM will count as a roaming one on Vodafone Austria’s network.

Outside the EU there are punishing rates (I once managed to pay $90 for 5MB of data by accident).

Sleep

Rates are for high season (late April through September, Christmas, NYE), might be up to 50% lower on other dates

• For 0 hours (party hostels, from €10): Grandio, Retox, Carpe Noctem Vitae
• On a budget (well-reviewed hostels, dorm or private rooms €10-50): Lavender Circus, Maverick City Lodge, Pal’s, Homemade, The Groove, Loft, Airbnb (€40-100, full apartment)
• Mid-range (€80-150): Mamaison, Bo18, Gerlóczy Rooms de Luxe, art’otel, Casati
• In style (€150-250): Palazzo Zichy, Bródy Studios (very unique design), Moments, Baltazár, Buddha Bar, Boscolo, Prestige, Corinthia
• Lavishly (€250+): Aria, Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons (the gold standard), Kempinski

Location: if you plan on sleeping, the party district (VII., inside the ring road) should be avoided, as well as VIII. outside of it and around Keleti train station for safety reasons/because you can get nicer digs elsewhere. An under the radar, beautiful area is VII. between Múzeum körút and the ring road. Buda is nowhere as dead as tourists collectively imagine it to be (especially around Széll Kálmán tér), don’t shun it if you find someplace nice there.

Eat at

• Rosenstein (best traditional Hungarian restaurant of the country)
• Két Szerecsen (cozy Hungarian)
• Olimpia (casual fine dining)
• Borkonyha (casual fine dining, Michelin-star)
• Stand25 (Bib Gourmand market bistro - don't miss the goulash and the layered potatoes!)
• Kispiac (modern Hungarian)
• Paletta (regional cuisine – lake Balaton)
• Petrus (French-Hungarian, Bib Gourmand)
• Dobrumba (Arabic)
• Ruben (traditional Hungarian on a budget)
• Kék Rózsa (traditional Hungarian on a budget)
• Bors (superb soups & sandwiches with a fan following)
• Kerkyra (gyro better than in Greece)
• Manu+ (authentic Neapolitan pizza).

For more specialized restaurant recommendations, see this comment.

Observe the standard rules of restaurant etiquette, though the quality of service can still be erratic at a lot of places (a common complaint).

Tip is 10% most of the time, unless you’re really dissatisfied or find yourself absolutely. Many top end restaurants add a ~12% service charge to the bill, tipping on top of that is not expected, though naturally it will be appreciated.

Do note that neither regular, nor fast food restaurants do refills. The only exception is KFC.

Smoking is banned at all restaurants, bars and basically every facility open to the public. Designated smoking areas can be found outside.

Say your his, pleases and thank yous if you want good (or any) service.

Try pálinka (~40% ABV fruit brandy), Unicum (herbal bitter/aperitif, like Jäger), bikavér from Eger and Szekszárd (lit. ‘bull’s blood’, a full-bodied red), Tokaji aszú (similar to white Port, made of hand-picked berries with noble rot, named the "wine of kings, king of wines" from the 18th century) or fröccs (spritzer, white or red wine mixed with seltzer – a lifesaver in the summer)!

More details in the shopping section.

Or get really local and ask for ’fény’, vodka from a CO2 canister over raspberry syrup. You’ll see the ’fény’ (=light) at the end of the tunnel in no time!

Eat a freshly fried lángos at market halls (acceptable toppings: sour cream, garlic, cheese, perhaps ham and cabbage - certainly none of that tourist stuff with nutella, Hungarian sausage or kebab...) and fried sausage from a butcher shop such as 1951 establishment Balla Hús in Városház utca or the more contemporary Belvárosi Disznótoros eatery. The gallery of the Hold utca market hall hosts quality street food vendors, Karaván food truck yard right next to Szimpla.

Parties

For a casual evening, hit up: Doblo (wine bar), Élesztő (craft beer), Csendes (bohemian), Jedermann (jazz), Boutiq’ Bar (cocktails), Pontoon (summer-only riverside lounge bar at the foot of Chainbridge)

Visit ruin pubs Szimpla, Instant-Fogasház, Mazel Tov or more local Kuplung, Pótkulcs, Ellátó Kert.

Party at mainstream clubs Akvárium, Hellobabybar, Yellow, Fröccsterasz. Electronic music fans head to Lärm, Aether or Corvin Club, DNB at Peaches&Cream, bottle service at BRKLYN, Raktár Klub, High Note Skybar. Rock and miscellaneous concerts at Dürer Kert, Barba Negra, A38 (a converted Ukrainian barge – a unique experience). Alterego for a gay time. For more recommendations, including strip clubs, casinos and more, see this comment.

Get out

See train schedules on Elvira, check for buses on menetrendek.hu (this site combines bus and train schedules, but has no English version, check for the orange or blue icon on the left side to see which is which).

Daytrip options include

• Szentendre: a bit different from its Scottish peer (lit. 'St. Andrews') quaint, cobblestoned artist town, chock full of galleries, art museums, restaurants – and tourists. The biggest attraction requires a short cab ride out of town, the open-air ethnography museum, Skanzen, with authentic recreations of functioning village clusters (open March through October). Best restaurant, oddly enough, cooks up a Caribbean fare at the hand of the Curaçaoan owner and his Hungarian wife: Mjam. Reachable by the H5 suburban railway from Batthyány a tér (requires supplementary ticket for segment past the municipal boundaries of Budapest)

• Visegrád and Esztergom: a Renaissance castle with a panorama in the first, Central Europe’s largest cathedral in the second – and all this can be done on a scenic hydrofoil or boat trip in season!

• Eger: the location of a key Hungarian victory over Ottoman forces in 1552, this city is famous for its medieval castle, Baroque center, random museums (Beatles, firefighting and marzipan to name a few) and its full-bodied, cabernet-like reds (bull’s blood, bikavér) and the limestone terraced natural spa of Egerszalók. Suggested wineries: St. Andrea, Tibor Gál, Demeter, Bolyki. Eat at Macok restaurant.

• Etyek: the nearest wine region to Budapest, they focus on whites. Although not as spectacular as the previous examples, it's a worthwhile visit for wine aficionados in the summer and autumn. Typical varieties include Irsai Olivér, királyleányka and Muscat Lunel (sárgamuskotály). Restaurant: Walter in Perbál.

For multi-day excursions, including to lake Balaton and detailed information on car rental, countryside and international tourism opportunities, click here