r/Leica•
lain83

Looking at joining the club

I visited a Leica store a year and half ago and fell in love with the M line. I’m really a Nikon shooter and would continue to rely on my digital Nikon for most of my photography. However, I have the opportunity to purchase a well cared for M3 kit for the KEH trade value. I see myself using this for more creative photography and getting back to basics when I’m feeling in a rut.

Since I’m really a digital photographer I have some basic questions.

  1. Is KEH trade in value a good deal? I’m having a really hard time finding comparable items online.
  2. How do I pick what film to use? Do you have recommendations on film and why?
  3. How do you process the film? Are most of you processing yourselves, dropping it off, or sending it away to be processed.
  4. Am I crazy to want a Leica when it will not be my primary system?

Posted Oct 10, 2018, 10:17 PM UTC

423
jimrie•
  1. You can probably get more money for your gear selling it privately. Alternatively, you can probably get into the system cheaper going through a private transaction.

  2. Try out a bunch of the popular ones, Kodak Portra, Ilford HP5, Fuji Provia etc. They all have their intended applications so it depends on what you shoot.

  3. Personally I send it in to a lab for processing. Setting up a lab in your home is a real commitment and I find that it more convenient to have it developed and scanned for ~$15/roll.

  4. Not really. A film Leica (especially one without a light meter) is like driving a manual transmission in a car. It's not better necessarily, but it makes you think about what you're doing in a totally new way. You'll find yourself shooting new things and composing shots with a lot more thought. Additionally, it will hold it's value really well so if you decide you don't like it, you can always sell it for what you paid.

5
lain83OP•

Thanks for the reply. I guess I wasn’t clear on my first question. I’m keeping my gear. The KEH value is the amount I’m looking at spending for the Leica kit that would purchase through a friend. I assume trade in value is a good deal for me to purchase the kit for since they would have to mark up the price for resale. It’s just hard to find comparables for 1960’s gear.

Sounds like I shouldn’t worry too much about what film and trying out different film will be a great exercise to keep me shooting for awhile!

I have access to a darkroom for black and white film but it would cost more for the use of it than how much you say you spend to send it off. Sending it off would be easier. Glad to hear that’s what others do.

I really appreciate your thoughts on the last point. I think I will cherish the Leica and definitely putting more thought into my photography when I use it. I think that forced thoughtfulness could help me be a better photographer when I’m not using the Leica.

1
Lemonpiee•

Sounds like you've never shot film before. In that case, I don't recommend the Leica as your first film camera. Find a cheap Nikon film SLR (you can get a cheap body under $50 and adapt all your glass to it) and get used to film that way. Once you're used to the quirks of film, then move to Leica. Getting used to a rangefinder from an SLR takes some time and getting used to film from digital takes some time. Take one step at a time.

4
lain83OP•

I have shot film before but with an Holga. With the holga, I just grab whatever film is around. I don’t shoot with the holga very often because not many places develop 120 film so it’s more of a hassle than I think 35 mm film would be. But I know I could be wrong on that.

I think I’m not likely to run across such a well cared leica like this one again for awhile or if I do, for not the same price. You think I should pass on it for now?

1
flagellium•

Honestly $1,000 is not really that good a deal on an M3. That's actually a little above going rate (KEH BGN grade is a good metric, they have a conservative rating system so anything BGN will be in fine shape). I've regularly seen M3's pop up on my local Craigslist for around that amount or less, and I personally got my M3 with a lens in 2016 for $450 from someone who just wanted it to go to a good home. So don't feel like you're missing out on an astronomical deal money-wise, because you aren't.

3
flagellium•

I would honestly try film in a cheaper setup before you go straight to an M3. Find out if you like shooting film first, you can get a film Nikon (something like an F100) that probably takes your digital lenses for a fraction of Leica money. $1000 is a huge chunk of change to blow on your first film camera (not to mention pretty high on the going rate for M3's), and that doesn't include a lens.

The M3 is also arguably the least versatile Leica. Good for 50mm and 90mm, but archaic loading system, thick/curved framelines, no 35mm frames, and of course no light meter. It has build quality going for it, but not much more so than an M2 or M4/-2/-P. Be sure it's the one you want before you drop that kind of money.

Overall, you'll likely enjoy the Leica experience a lot more if you know what you're doing with film first. That'll give you a better sense of why people find Leicas special versus other film cameras.

3
mscheff35•

Yeah M4-2 or P are probably the best entry level bodies to get into

2
mscheff35•

I think it would depend on the kind of shooting you’re looking to do. I have an M6 myself and enjoy working with a 35mm for wider street shots. If that’s the kind of work you intend to do, I would recommend the M6 (has a light meter but is fully mechanical).

Leica purists will tell you that an M3 and 50mm Lens is as OG as you can get. The best advice I can give is, don’t look for reasons to like the camera. I have never shot with a 90mm or a 50mm on a Leica, as it’s not really my cup of tea.

All in all, if you’re struggling to pull the trigger, the M3 is truly a beautiful piece of design. It’s like driving a vintage sports car. Get a handheld meter or an app on your phone, and enjoy the simplicity (and the sophistication) of such an elegant camera. If Nikon/Canon are like blasters, the M3 is a lightsaber...lol

2
lain83OP•

Thanks for the info. I would say my typical go to lens is a 50mm so I was thinking that would be my normal setup on a Leica too, but maybe that’s not the case.

1
wedidntmeantogotoseaLeica M4-P•
  1. How do I pick what film to use? Do you have recommendations on film and why?

Same way as you pick what mode (and postprocessing steps) to shoot on a digital. You have a trade-off between speed and noise on film. You have monochrome, natural colour, vivid colour and false colour. You have the differences between cost and colour quality (Slide film is expensive to buy, expensive to process and fixed at 100 speed - but it's beautiful).

The 'Must try before you die' list?

Ilford:

  • FP4+

  • HP5+

  • Delta 3200

Kodak:

  • Tri-X 400

  • Gold 200 (Colour)

  • Ektar 100 (Colour)

  • Portra 160 and 400 (Colour)

  • Ektachrome (Slide)

Other brands:

  • Adox Scala (Mono Slide)

  • Orwo UN54 (Mono Slide)

  • Lomochrome Purple (Whatever you call this thing)

  • Cinestill 800T (Tungsten-Balanced Colour with no Antihalation)

  • Adox CMS 20 II

  1. How do you process the film? Are most of you processing yourselves, dropping it off, or sending it away to be processed.

If you're shooting for fun, with Kodak Gold - then the Drugstore minilab is fine. If you're shooting high-end colour or slide, you should send it off. If you're shooting a lot of black and white - you should process at home.

  1. Am I crazy to want a Leica when it will not be my primary system?

Less crazy than the people that plan to use a 70 year old film camera as their main professional set up, but still crazy.

2
lain83OP•

Thanks for the list of film to try and processing recommendations!

1
wedidntmeantogotoseaLeica M4-P•

Welcome!

1
bmacdizzleLeica III c•

Do you recommend Fuji Natura 1600 as a “Try before you die” film?

1
wedidntmeantogotoseaLeica M4-P•

Eh, not really - but if it interests you, get some! It's discontinued, so this is kind of your only chance (like Acros, Velvia and Provia too) and you'll probably regret it if you don't indulge yourself.

1
mscheff35•

I think it depends...how much is the M3? What’s your experience with rangefinders in general? You may find that after buying it, using it may not be your cup of tea.

Personally, I would say go for it if it’s in good condition, because if you hate it, you can always flip it. Just be prepared for the learning curve

1
lain83OP•

It’s a single owner 1966 M3 in near mint cosmetic condition that I can get for a little over $1000 US. I could find comparables for the M3 that make me think that’s at the low end of fair market for the condition. The hard part is figuring out comparables for the lenses. But everything is offered to me at the KEH trade in value so I’m thinking that all of it might be in that same ball park. 🤷🏻‍♀️

Edit: my only experience with range finders is that day I fell in love with the Leica M series at the Leica store. I know it’s going to be different. That’s why I know I’m not going to abandon my dslrs. Just wanting to add it to my tool box.

1
mscheff35•

And this is body-only?

1
lain83OP•

For the grand, yes. I saw near mint M3 on eBay sold for $1,399. KEH has bargain quality for less than $900. I’ve also been reading other similar posts on this sub. so I think it’s a fair price maybe even a little low?

1
mscheff35•

Another thing to ask yourself is, is the M3 the right Leica for you?

1
lain83OP•

Great point. How does one arrive at the right Leica? From reading on this sub I’m interested in the bright view finder in the m3. I’ve read on here that the m3 pairs nicely with a 50 mm or 90 mm lens. I like those focal lengths. I’m a little worried about not having a light meter but I also like that it wouldn’t require batteries and would like to be less dependent on light meters (they aren’t always perfect anyway). But I’m sure I’d find things to like about any camera.

1
Djesley•

I personally prefer all M camera finders but the M3's, because for 50mm on the M3 it's basically the entire viewfinder. On every other M you get a good area around the 50mm framelines, which gives you a much better sense of the scene and how to improve composition. Focusing accuracy will be pretty much the same, it's irrelevant. I'd start with a $600 M2 and , say, a 50 Nokton or Planar to get a feel of the system. Most likely you will fall in love with the M2. if you dislike the loading system you can always go for an M4, M6 or another model with the new loading mechanism (which I personally find to be worth the premium).

1