Wheel building question

Going into my lbs in the next few days to pick out some parts for a wheel build on a budget for my fixed. What’s the order I should be focused on for how much $ I want to drop on the specific parts? e.g., Hubs, Wheels, Cog, Spokes

Any other tips would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

Posted May 9, 2019, 1:18 PM UTC · edited

310
upperouterright•

A few questions, how much to do you weigh? Terrain? Need to go really fast or just fast?

Depending on answers, that determines some spoke numbers and lacing. What O have always done is spent more on wheels and hubs. There are lots of high end hubs but a good hub, doesn’t need to be gold plated and a well known rim brand matter. When you figure that out, find a legit wheel builder. Many are ok, some are magicians.

One other option, build your own. If it’s a steep learning f curved but it is kind of magical to learn.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

5
LizardWizardxOP•

My lbs does wheel builds for no labour cost and maintains them for life with no charge when you have them build it so I’m going that route. I weigh 150 and it’s a city cruiser. I ride quite a bit so going really fast takes a back seat to durability. Leg’s can always get stronger. I live in central canada so hills aren’t an issue. Thanks for the fast reply.

2
upperouterright•

These wheels will be great. Sounds like your bike shop is a good one. Being able to stop in and get trued is great.

3
jfgate•

Is that common for shops to build wheels for no charge?

2
LizardWizardxOP•

Only one shop in the city does it but they’re a collective that organizes tons of cycling events around the city. I think they just really love getting people on bikes.

3
jfgate•

That's great!

1

Not that I've found. All the shops around me charge anywhere from $70-100 per wheel.

2
kopsis•

It's all about trade-offs and more $ isn't necessarily better. Figure out what your bare minimum would be for each element that would still result in an acceptable wheel. Then look at what upgrading each element would cost and how much you'd benefit. Take upgrades in order of "bang-for-the-buck" until you hit your budget target.

2
Erinaceous•

Unless you go high end (eg Phil Wood) most fixed hubs are going to be Formula anyways so you may as well go with formula. Fixed fixed is a better option than flip flop because you can get a small range of gears than can be useful if you find yourself in a hilly spot (i mean maybe 4 teeth difference is the max without changing your chain length). Usually this is about 40$-50$. 32 is more common but 36 let's you do more interesting lacing patterns.

Spokes will likely be stock. Just get whatever stainless spokes. It's doesn't seem to matter much. I think they usually come out at about 2$/spoke.

Better end rims will be one piece without a visible weld line where the metal meets. Most of the research is pointing to wider tires being faster and better riding than narrow tires so get something that can take a 28-32 mm tire. I've always built on Mavics but I can't say they've held up particularly well.

It might be worth reading through Sheldon Brown's wheelbuilding pages just to familiarize yourself with the quality ranges.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

2
fatherbowie•

I’d recommend butted spokes, at least DT Competition or better. Straight spokes are heavy and weak, so definitely don’t skimp on spokes. I’m looking at Velocity Quill rims lately, they seem like they would do the trick for you.

1