The Wikipedia article on 126 gives the film dimensions as 35mm wide so in theory it should work. I'm just wondering if anyone has done it and what gotcha's there are to look out for.
Posted May 23, 2019, 12:26 AM UTC
If you have the plastic rachet types reels, it will work just fine. The steel reels can get a little iffy since they have finer tolerances. I've done it on both, so it can be done.
I've got plastics patterson reels and an old hama reel so should be good. Thanks.
126 is the easy load version of 135. Same film.
e2a: Different perforations.
My AP tanks have the minimum developer volume for 126, along with 35 and 120 printed at the bottom, so I'd assume it'd work just fine with the plastic easy load reels they came with.
I would guess no, since it's the height of the film (shorter side) that's dictates what reel you need
I have done it in my Jobo reels five times and it worked. I am not an expert nor can I say this for 100% but it worked for me so take that as it is. At the very worst save a black 35mm film can and if you dont like the way it feels in the dark bag unthread it and stick it into film can until you get another reel.
Great idea, thanks!
It would be a loose fit, since 35mm film is actually 36mm wide, but it might work.
No, a frame is 36mm wide. The film is 35mm wide.
So you're saying the frame is wider than the film that contains it? What is this wizardry? (35mm film is 36mm wide. The "frame" size is meaningless as far as the physical dimensions of the film goes, as the visual frame is controlled by the camera. When you put 35mm film in a MF camera, the entire width of the film is covered with an image and there's no "frame" across the width. Super 35, hlaf frame and full-frame still cameras all use 35mm film, with very different frame sizes).
A small-format camera (24x36) makes 24 x 36 mm frames on a 35 mm wide strip of film. 24 mm + the size of the punched holes + margins get you 35mm. u/gswdh is right here.
Yes, you're right. I got those two mixed up.