Source
r/ender3•
hardrockfoo

Prints stick too much on Creality glass bed

I got the Creality brand glass bed for my Ender 5 a few weeks ago. I bought it for making sure my bed wasn't warped, to replace my original magnetic bed that had a crease, and because everyone said prints just pop off after it cools. I have had absolutely zero luck with the prints popping off.

I printed bed stabilizers for it first. First and second print didn't stick. I don't know if that was due to me not cleaning it or not letting the glass warm. On the third print I cleaned the bed with alcohol and let the glass warm up. This one stuck so well I thought I was going to break the glass and had to use a scraper to help. Next prints were some minis that were tough to get off. One I stuck in the freezer and it was still really hard to release. Finally I printed 3 minis a week later and after freezing I still could not remove them at all. I used hot water, tried warming the plate and letting it cool again, and rinsing the bases with alcohol. Finally one came off with some work, then another, and the 3rd had part of the base infill stick to the bed when the mini came off. I had to soak it for an hour just to pry the bit and the skirt off.

Has anyone else had issues like this or am I just buying a new bed. Those flex metal ones seem to be a better purchase.

Posted Mar 6, 2020, 2:19 PM UTC

110
nuclearfall0ut•

I have a spring steel bed from th3d it is amazing. Check your squish on first layer and lower initial bed temp.

I have different profiles depending on print. Smaller objects get higher bed temp which ups adhesion. Whereas larger objects I will shave off 5 degrees off initial layer for easier removal .

3
totstation•

This.

Most adhesion issues are caused by the nozzle not being at the correct height and overheated beds. Also the textured side of the bed is kind of a pain. I've always used the glass side with sugar water or hairspray if I needed a little more adhesion.

It's a very fine line between "not sticking at all" and "sticking too well". But it gets much easier once you figure out what the first layer is supposed to look like.

2
RuairiSpain•

I took a chip out of my Creality textured glass bed because adhesion was too good. I ended up flipping it over which has normal glass and prints stick very well. I use alcohol to clean it each time. Sometimes when I've a mini print I use hairspray to help adhesion, because the contact area is small, it's easier to take off the print when I used hairspray.

I find it easier to take off print when the bed has cooled down for 30 minutes to an hour. I'm using 70°C for the first layer and then drop it to 60°C. With my first layer I hardly have any squashing, the nozzle doesn't touch the first layer at all, just use babysitting to make sure it's not too high.

What filament are you using PLA? Using water or freezing sounds like a bad idea because PLA will absorb the water and ruin the print.

2
MikeyLew32•

PLA's water absorption doesn't work that fast.

1
TurboSexophonic•

It looks like you've already received some good advice.

I suspect one day you'll find yourself wishing you had that kind of bed adhesion again :-)

2
MikeyLew32•

I find myself wishing I had this kind of bed adhesion on my glass bed.

1
TurboSexophonic•

For sure.

1
twiggums•

I keep a razor blade next to my printer for such occasions. If it ain't come off after cooling, gently pry it under a corner and gently nudge the blade up, usually pops it loose.

1
Mr2Sexy•

The secret to making prints pop off is to spray isopropyl alcohol onto the base of your print after it has cooled off. You can literally hear the print lifting off the bed

1
hardrockfooOP•

I did spray it and let is soak. Didn't help at all. Also the main point is the bed isn't working as advertised.

1