Defeated & completely p*ssed off. I'll be back Dunkeld.
Posted Feb 28, 2011, 2:23 AM UTC
1516
There is a huge difference in onsighting vs redpointing in mixed climbing/drytooling. In the first case, you lose so much energy locked off on one arm trying to find hooks blindly. If you top rope a route a couple of times, resting every other moves and really working out feet, pick placements and where the rests are, you should be able to send fairly hard routes quickly.
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I got a couple of D4's and a D6 in a clean (but not particularity stylish) onsights. I just couldn't get this D5+ seconded without dogging, I think I was already too pumped and angry at myself to think about the moves.
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I did outdoor drytooling for the first time two weeks ago, went in hoping to do D6 by the end of the week (which would be consistent with my lack of experience and rock climbing level, around F7a redpoint), and instead managed to redpoint D7+ and D8- after working out the moves. I would have had absolutely no chance to onsight them, though.
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Not bad mate! I can't even imagine what D8 onwards would be like! Where was that about? Not to belittle our achievements but Greg Bosewell does laps, fucking LAPS, of Fast and the Furious for training.
I've suddently turned into a mad training monster at the moment. I'm aiming for being able to onsight E2, F6b+, D6 and Scottish Winter V without shitting my pants.
"Pies or summits, You can't have both"
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In Switzerland, more details here.
I don't know Greg Boswell, but we had Tom Ballard over there, who sent M12 and was onsighting M10. Crazy people!
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(beginner here) Why are you using those shoes and gloves?
edit: nevermind the answer is already in the comments
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Hej! Your threads look like the kind that you buy in Sweden, have you done any climbing here?
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In time brother, in time. Do most people use ice climbing gear there? I don't know about Dunkeld.
It's mostly a dry tooling venue with a tiny bit of trad and sport. The dry tooling only happens on "approved" routes. We went there because it looked like everything up north was melting :(
How are the difficulty differences between dry tooling routes and sport routes? Just curious as to why a dry tooling route couldn't be done as a sport route.
The climbing styles are completely different when using axes, the best way is to quote ScWiki
You could do a dry tooling route as a sport but not the other way around. The crag ends up scratched and deformed will all the tool work. It's fairly chossy slate there so it wouldn't make the best venue for sport.
Are those Phanton quickdraws?
I think most of them are yes. My mate completely switched his rack to them to "save weight". Personally I prefer the Prowire, it's got a nice balance between price, weight and durability.
On a slighty related gear note, tried both the DMM Rebels and the BD Vipers that day and I've completely changed my mind about them. I'm defo upgrading to the Vipers this month rather than my original idea of a pair of Rebels.
Wait until you try Nomics, though...
We actually had snowfall on Meggie on Saturday evening, but the conditions were still pretty shithouse - too much stuff had thawed earlier in the week, and it didn't get cold enough to re-consolidate. We saw a team on Pumpkin on Sunday, though, and another heading up to The Wand.