Looking for advice on 2014 Silverado install
Hi all
Just got a new truck and I'm having a hard time deciding on speakers / amp configuration.
I have a bunch of stuff that I plan on using, but I am unsure about what to do with my front speakers especially.
Equipment:
Dash speakers: Kicker 47KSC2704 - I basically bought these because they were the only things I could find that fit in my dash that I recognized. They came with a capacitor, but no instructions on how to use it, I did some research and I believe it's to filter out the low end for protection when not running crossovers. I've installed them with capacitor on the positive terminal.
Front Door Speakers: Pioneer TS-A6965S - Bought these for my old system, they had good reviews and being low on cash at the time I decided to try them out. I have always found them to have a kinda honky sounding midrange, and lacking in high frequency. I worry about the ability to power these and the dash speakers on the same 2 channels (as they are wired stock)
Rear Speakers: Alpine RS65 coaxial - Great speakers, it's a crime that they are in the back, especially since it will be full of cargo at all times.
Speaker amp: Alpine MRV F340 55wRMS 4 channel @ 4ohms
Sub: Kicker L5 10" 600w RMS in Kicker ported box - Super impressed with this sub over the years and happy with it.
Sub Amp: Older Power Acoustik mono block can't remember what model, 2100D maybe? but great value amp that I used to run a JL W3 15" with, and runs the L5 beautifully when turned down.
Head unit: Alpine iLX-W650 - On order, I went with this because of it's shallow depth (in hopes I won't have to butcher the dash too much to get it in) and big screen for backup cam. Only about 15w per channel I think, but I'm just using it to run amps.
So I have the speakers in, head unit isn't in yet, so neither are the amps.
The speakers are a very noticeable improvement over stock, but the dash speakers don't keep up with the rest of the system and start frapping out at 3/4 volume. It's likely a combination of them being underpowered, sharing the same channel as the big 6x9s, and not being broken in yet.
I am not a fan of the way the Pioneers sound, never have been. It's a crime that the Alpines are not in the front, but it's cut for 6x9, and and I bought 6x9 speaker mounts, rather than a 6 3/4 conversation, might be regretting that.
I'm wondering if you folks had some suggestions on what I should do with my speakers.
Should I move the Alpines up front, and run them off 2 amp channels and the dash speakers off the other 2?
Or buy a better pair of 6x9s run them and the dash speakers off one channel, and leave the Rs in the back.
Or maybe I should cut my losses with both of the front speakers, buy a good set of components, and put the tweeters where the dash speakers are?
If I replace the front speakers do you have any recommendations? I was thinking maybe Alpine R or JL Audio C2, but I maybe there are better options for my setup. 6x9s or 6 1/2?
Should I be running some sort of DSP or Crossover in addition?
Misc questions:
Should I upgrade my battery, add a second battery, or should I be fine off stock?
What gauge of cable should I be using for main amp power, before distribution block?
How big of a difference would a bit of sound treatment on the doors make? And is it costly?
Sorry lots of questions, I've been out of the game for a while, and appreciate any guidance.
Thanks all
Posted Jul 18, 2020, 8:21 PM UTC · edited
Too many speakers. Just run the nicest pair upfront and disconnect the rest (or buy a component set like you suggested). Deaden and seal the doors to improve midbass.
Take that 4 channel and bridge it to whatever component set you fun in the front doors. If you absolutely need rear speakers than use the HU to power them only.
Tweeter locations are difficult, you should probably just experiment unless you're not willing to install them in any location but the factory spots. Dash might be ok or might sound like ass.
Next time you install some door speakers build some baffles out of HDPE (aka cutting board material) of atleast 1/2 inch. Bonus points if you seal the baffle to the door trim with weatherstripping foam.
For the power you would be fine running a good 4 gauge kit. Get OFC only!!!! Knukonceptz is good (do not get CCA)
You're not running enough power for another battery to be necessary.
For deadening, best out there is probably resononix. Read their website for the how-to guide. Or read sounddeadenershowdown's website.
Some good budget options are Knukoncepts klossus deadener. I also had some good results with NVX deadener. As long as you avoid the super cheap shit that contains asphalt you'll do ok.
Thanks a lot for the reply.
I was thinking about moving the Alpine R's 6.5 coax to the front doors, and running the dash speakers as mid/tweeter (as they're designed). I'd follow your advice, deaden and seal the doors, make HDPE mounts.
I assume I wouldn't bridge in that situation, as the speakers are not similar in wattage and no indevidual crossover control?
That being said, I would be under powering the 6.5s by half wattage which probably isn't ideal. If I just forget the dash speakers as you say, and bridge for the 6.5, the speakers are 4ohm, would bridging bring me to 2ohm? and is that a problem?
I kinda worry about all my sound coming from two low height door speakers.
I like the idea of a good set of components, I used to run top of the line JLs in the front doors of my Tacoma, and it was more than enough to keep up with the 15w3 I had behind my head. Actually went deaf in my left ear for the day I got the tweeters running worry that setup, oops 😬. My concern in this truck with tweeter placement is that it's a company vehicle, so I don't want to be drilling visible holes in the plastic willy nilly. The dash speakers do sound good where they are, not sure if straight tweeters would. If I do go that route I will be running with what I have until I save for something good.
Am I okay using factory speaker wire? Or does that defeat everything else I'm doing. New vehicles are a bitch to work in.
Is this deadening a hard no?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07TKXMPH7/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A1SH3WMI0SIXBP&psc=1
I would try out the alpines in the doors on their own. Bridging the amp combines two channels into one. So the load at the amp will still be 4 ohm but you can only run 1 set of speakers on it. That amp puts out 130 x2 @ 4ohm. So that would power the alpines nicely.
If you purchase components later just fab up a little bracket to install the tweeter at the factory dash speaker location and install the woofer in the door.
If you really like the dash speakers you can run them off the HU maybe. I personally wouldn't do it but people like what they like.
The amazon link is closed cell foam, you use that for isolating vibrating panels that are rattling against each other. Not a bad idea to use if you have some plastic on plastic or metal on plastic rattles from trim.
Cheapest deadener id recommend is the NVX stuff.
Beautiful thanks!
I wouldn't run the dash off the deck, they wouldn't keep up, sucks I just bought them, but my own fault for not asking BEFORE the install 😅
Any suggestions on good components, if I go that route? Are 6.5 still considered preferable to 6x9? I used to like the mid-higher end of JL/Alpine, but don't know what the market looks like now.
Appreciate the help. Thankyou.
I dont run car audio components (I go the DIY raw driver route with a DSP) so you should probably shop around and see whats popular. Listen to some if you can. Typically there's more selection in 6.5 comp sets. 6x9s would get you a little more midbass maybe.