That is it Climbit, I'm calling it quits.
I love climbing and climbit but I can't go on with this sport.
I've just had friend killed in an accident. I never want to get back onto rock or snow again. I don't know what to do or how to express this fear / loathing of a sport I once loved.
I've had mates have accidents - bad breaks, blood, broken skulls but never a death before.
Goodbye climbing and please stay safe folks.
Edit Thanks to everyone with their messages. I should clarify that it looks like a bad protection at the belay that caused the fall. I've still not found out the details and I don't think I want to.
Posted Jun 18, 2011, 10:55 PM UTC · edited
Firstly, allow me to express my sincerest condolences on the loss of a friend.
Secondly (downvotes be damned, someone needs to say it), and this is assuming all the mentioned accidents were as a result of someone being at fault, why do you climb with friends that have a history of accidents? I took a 25 ft whipper due to a shit belay on lead once at the crag and ended up about a foot shy of the ground; that person has not climbed with us in over seven months now.
Lastly, my condolences yet again, alongside an apology for posting a few critical remarks. I hope that you are able to overcome the grief associated with losing a friend and find a new hobby that is as socially, mentally and physically rewarding as climbing, to replace it and keep your mind off of things.
If all else fails, take up bouldering.
I didn't climb with guys with a history of accidents. They were mates within the climbing community.
Tell more about this. It's easy to be clipping the 3rd bolt, with a bunch of slack out, and end up damn near decking depending on the bolts, etc.
First time leading, second time outdoors, belayer was lead belaying for the first time. First time outdoors. Foot above the third bolt; pushed off without saying anything (stupid) to see if belayer was paying attention, without looking first (also stupid if you have any control over the situation). Belayer was watching the ass of the girl top roping next to me; enough slack ripped through his hands before he even tried to arrest the fall that I came within a foot or so of decking. Banged up my knees and elbows, bad rope burn (burnt off calluses) on right palm (grabbed the belay side of the rope, HARD), fucked me up mentally for a long time.
It was a combination of many stupid, stupid things and I count myself lucky it wasn't worse. Later found out the belayer had ADD..always knew something was off about him. This incident also instilled within me a very strong desire to learn how to be the best belayer possible, with better climbing secondary, as well as a desire to teach as many people as possible how to belay well. On top of that, I have become EXTREMELY picky with my belayers.
Lesson to learn from this: Take it slow, learn things the right way. If it feels like you're moving too fast, you're about two seconds away from killing yourself or someone else.
wow, first time lead belaying and the dude still wasn't paying attention?! I was sweating bullets (and still do) the first time I belayed outdoors on lead.
i'm picky as well. I've flat out told several people "you're not belaying me" after watching them. i may come off like a dickhead, but i like climbing and would continue to do so.
you'd think a few years experience would weed out the bad belayers but I find a lot of really lax "it's cool man, you're just lead climbing" attitudes out there. "i'll sit on this rock over here while you're climbing" eh, no you wont.
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You're a fucking idiot. He is somewhat at fault, but you're fucking dumb for even letting that situation arise by having a newbie belay you and then "testing" him.
I wouldn't climb with your stupid ass. Ever.
Wow, that's a little rough in response to something that happened in the first month of my climbing career; I already said what I did was stupid, no need to be a complete dick about it. I had no idea he was a shitty belayer, and your belayer is supposed to pay attention (catch you regardless of whether they're "surprised/tested" or not), right?
But forgive me, I'm sure you've never made a mistake. Ever. Thanks for putting me in my place, and completely missing the point.
Your belayer has probably been in a gym a few times, too, but only ever used a GriGri. If more gyms allowed ATCs, more people would have better instincts. :-(
there are gyms that don't allow ATCs? what kind of madness is that?
Wow, my gym ONLY supplies ATCs. I'm sure you could use a GriGri if you brought it in. The only device they don't allow is a Fig8.
cool story bro
Depending on what someone's doing, sometimes shit happens though right? Even with some sport climbs where I am there are spots where the leader had better not fall, and if people choose to do the riskier climbs then injuries aren't necessarily because someone (belayer, whatever) was at fault.
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With a good spot and some common sense, the worst that can happen is comparatively minor.
Same with a good belay. Always gonna be risk involved.
Bouldering is risky, but the chances of death are much smaller compared to vert climbing.