FUNGAL SAFE PRODUCTS and routine
This post doesn't include treatment, which I think has been covered pretty well. r/FungalAcne will teach you everything you need to know! A beautiful breakdown of the entire skin condition can be found by the amazing f.c. at this link: https://simpleskincarescience.com/pityrosporum-folliculitis-treatment-malassezia-cure/
Also of interest might be my post on how to use anti-fungal or anti-dandruff shampoos effectively:
The challenge is, after your treatment step... What else to use? Or maybe your active fungal acne is gone, but it comes back if you use your usual products. It's hard to find fungal safe products in India, and this is what I worked out for myself. IN MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, SO YOU CAN'T SUE ME LATER, OKAY? K, thanx πβ€
You don't have to have fungal acne to use these products, of course, but they won't contribute to the growth of Malassezia or "normal" acneβΊ
CLEANSERS -
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Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water Rs.175 for 125 ml the PINK one, for sensitive skin (I use this to remove makeup or sunscreen, with reusable cotton pads I got off Amazon. It works, is fungal safe, and isn't as time consuming as oil cleansing.) 5/5
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Clean & Clear Natural Bright Face Wash Rs.60 for 50 ml (has glycerin as second ingredient, I think. A very nice, basic gel that doesn't foam much and is fungal safe) 4/5
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Derma Essentia Gel Cleansing Lotion Rs.215 for 125 gms (Very basic, very gentle, fungal safe. Use a generous amount. Won't remove makeup or sunscreen, but great for a morning cleanse!) 5/5
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Re'equil Fruit AHA Face Wash Rs.450 for 200 ml (great as an introduction to chemical exfoliation! I use it at night, less these days because of tretinoin. The ingredients are gentle enough that I can leave it on for ten minutes, as a mild treatment. Pricey, but the bottle lasts me at least three months) 5/5
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Johnson's Baby Oil with Vitamin E Rs. 190 for 200 ml (I use this to oil cleanse once a week, or whenever I feel like my pores are clogged. I spend at least fifteen minutes massaging it in till it's warm and melts the sebaceous clogs, then use warm water and a microfiber cloth to remove most of it, massaging in between putting the warm towel on my face, to "steam" it. Works great. Would NOT recommend doing this daily, as the heat and occlusion can worsen fungal acne, and that much massage is way too long and will irritate fungal acne, "normal" acne, or sensitive skin. It's a deep cleanse. Followed up with a face wash.)
TREATMENT/ ACTIVE-
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Aziderm Gel (AZELAIC ACID) Rs.260 for 15 gms (I have used both the 15% and 20%, pretty interchangeably, because my skin was already irritated from fungal acne, and there was not much difference between the effect of the two. I've used it with success as a treatment for fungal acne, "normal" acne, redness, and hyperpigmentation. If you have brown skin with any of these concerns, and want to use an active for the first time, I RECOMMEND AZELAIC ACID. It actually soothes skin, as opposed to irritating it! It does mattify the skin. This is a prescription product. (But apparently products containing 10% are available online, and don't need a prescription.) 5/5
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Recast Aqua Radiance Deep Cleansing Gel Rs450 for 200 ml (This is a Korean-style peeling gel, or "gommage" type exfoliant, that also has AHAs in it, so you get a really good chemical exfoliation plus a very gentle physical exfoliation. It does tingle a tiny bit on my skin, but I'm using tretinoin regularly, so it may not do that to you. I use it maybe once every two weeks because of tretinoin, but I'd recommend it as a weekly, or twice weekly chemical exfoliation for most people!) 5/5
DIY HYDRATING MIST - There aren't many oil-free gels available that contain actual humectants (water-attracting ingredients), so I relied on a mist for hydration in the morning. I used a mist bottle with rosewater, or plain water, and a dash of SORBITOL mixed in. Glycerin can aggravate fungal acne in some people, and sorbitol doesn't. Sorbitol is a soothing humectant that may be a pre-biotic for the skin. I buy mine on Amazon (Purenso Liquid Sorbitol Rs.110 for 100 gms). If you aren't concerned about fungal acne, glycerine works fine. Use very little humectant first, and observe your skin after five minutes of spraying it. If it's sticky, it's too much, if it's dry to the touch, add more.
Update: According to Simple Skincare Science (who was the reason why sezia flags glycerine as "high sensitivity" in the first place π ) glycerin IS fungal safe! Yaaay! (https://simpleskincarescience.com/glycerin-fungal-acne-safe-malassezia/)
MOISTURIZER - Aloe Gel, but not all are fungal safe! The two I have used and that have done good are the
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Body Cupid 99% Pure Aloe Vera Gel Rs.299 for 200 ml (Really soothing and actually makes a difference to redness or irritation!) 5/5, and
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WOW Aloe Vera Multipurpose Beauty Gel Rs.245 for 150ml (Less effective than the Body Cupid one, but works fine) 4/5. Gels contain XANTHAN GUM, which is a plant-derived thickener and film-forming agent. The film it leaves over your skin is usually enough for oily skin in summer.
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Boroline Night Repair Cream (affordable, found at most chemists. Contains lanolin as the second last ingredient, but doesn't trigger my own FA. It's not clear if lanolin is fungal acne safe, some even say it's antifungal. I can only say that, for me, the small amount in Boroline hasn't triggered my FA). Boroline night cream has the same ingredients as plain Boroline, it's just smoother and more cosmetically elegant. I use them interchangeably.
Boroline has been LOVELY to offset tretinoin-induced dryness and irritation, since it also contains soothing zinc oxide, mineral oil, and paraffin wax. May be too occlusive for use in summer, but using a tiny amount at night might work for you. I think it's great that there's an occlusive OPTION for those with FA, because barrier function is really compromised by fungal infections, and using a thin layer of occlusive overnight really helps with healing.. Boroline is way nicer to use than Vaseline, and not AS occlusive/ sweaty.
Update: I've been using Boroline in winter as a last step! It's not oily or greasy, and doesn't rub off onto my pillow. You can use a small amount in a very thin layer by by rubbing it between your palms, (so it warms up and spreads better) and patting it onto your skin.
TREATMENT + OIL - Capyrlic Triglycerides, or C8 Oil, is the isolated part of coconut oil that is antifungal! You'll see it in ingredients lists pf creams and moisturizers a lot, listed as "capric/caprylic triglycerides", which are C10 and C8 respectively (the number of carbon atoms.. It's chemistry... not important π). I have used:
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NUM NUM Superfoods Pure C8 Oil Rs.400 for 100 ml (I'm probably going to keep using this indefinitely, even if I don't get fungal cane, because it's light and my skin likes it) 5/5. When I had active fungal acne, I used to use just two drops of this on a wet face and nothing else, before sunscreen in the morning. It is a really effective treatment, but using too much will defeat the purpose, because it will insulate and heat up your skin, which will cause fungal acne to grow. Use sparingly!
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Squalane Oil The price of squalane varies depending on the brand. Whether it's derived from olives or sugarcane seems to make a difference in whether or not it is fungal safe, but most people seem to be able to use either, without triggering an FA breakout. I used squalane for a while before realizing I had FA, and enjoyed using it a lot, because of how silky it is, and how well it sinks into the skin. I now prefer C8 oil, because it's like doing an ongoing maintenance treatment on the daily βΊ But if you have an FA safe routine that works for you, squalane can make a nice addition as a soothing face oil... It's a great oil for all skin types!
EXFOLIATING NIGHT TREATMENT - UREA + LACTIC ACID - You'll find this at most chemists under the name
- Remoiz or Moisturex Rs220 for 100 gms 5/5, but depends on your using it wisely! It's 10% urea, 10% lactic acid in a paraffin base. When I had fungal acne and wanted more moisture than just aloe gel, I mixed a SMALL dab of this, and three drops C8 oil, into the aloe gel at night, as both a very mild exfoliating moisturizer and a treatment for the fungal acne. You don't have to mix in the oil, because the urea cream's paraffin is occlusive enough, but I liked the resulting texture π Otherwise, I do use this cream straight on my feet, knees, elbows, butt.. Anywhere the skin is thicker. Using it neat on the face WILL burn you. Just don't π
SUNSCREEN - After much searching and heartbreak, I have settled on
- The Blessing Tree Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 PA+++ Rs.199 for 100 ml (IT'S FUNGAL SAFE. πSobs in gratitude for her sunscreenπ No white cast. Has fragrance, but it's so mild I had to go smell it to be sure, hehe. Smells kind of like baby lotion... I do get oily midday, but I don't care π) 4/5. But I'll never stop using it π
So, here's a sample morning routine:
Cleanser, Mist, Aloe Gel, Sunscreen. Or skip the mist if it's really humid.
And for night:
Micellar water, Cleanser, Azelaic Acid...wait ten minutes for max effectiveness of azelaic acid, Mist, Aloe Gel + tiny dab of Urea cream, Three drops of C8 Oil.
TECHNIQUE -
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Firstly. More important than anything else, even if you're using fungal safe products, you have to prevent your skin from becoming too hot and occluded. If the weather is hot AND humid, YOU MAY NOT NEED ANY MOISTURIZER If you "seal" it too much, it creates a greenhouse kinda effect, and it won't matter even if your products are safe, the fungal acne grows. Same goes for "normal" acne, to some extent.
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Secondly, we still want our skin to become healthier and develop resistance, so hydration is important. Water, not oil! All creams are a balance of water and oil, and it's the same balance we have to maintain in our skin. Unfortunately, most common emulsifiers will trigger fungal acne, so I haven't found a cream that works. Hence the layering of water-attracting humectants and emollient, occlusive oil. Same effect, no emulsifying. A lot of oily skinned people are extra oily because their skin is dehydrated - not enough WATER. So I tend to do each step of the routine while the previous step is still DAMP. Very important! That way, the final step seals everything in juuust enough at night.
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Thirdly. Don't be afraid to mix to find your "custom" moisturizer. If a mist and aloe gel isn't moisturising enough for you, or you don't want to use a mist, add a two drops of C8 oil to the gel and massage that in! The oil will disperse nicely. If it's really humid weather, and you don't want to use oil at night, leave it out! Pay close attention to your own skin. If using urea cream freaks you out, don't use it! πβ€ Even using two drops of C8 oil on a plain wet face works! As long as your face is WET, otherwise the oil-water balance is too much oil, not enough water....
AN IMPORTANT TIP FOR FUNGAL ACNE (or acne in general) : TAKE A PROBIOTIC I used
- Dr.Trust Probiotics 25 Billion CFU Rs. 899 for 60 capsules (Follow the instructions. After every course of antibiotics, consider taking a course of probiotics for at least a couple weeks. I wish this was common knowledge. Our gut bacteria is SO IMPORTANT. You may feel gassy with your first dose, but it should subside.) 5/5. Probiotics have improved everything about my health. Even if you don't wanna use this brand, take a probiotic supplement for a while, then take them as needed: after prolonged stress, illness, antibiotic use... Probiotics work only for the time they are being eaten, and yes, daily homemade dahi is a good way to get them βΊ
I hope this helps someone... It's very TMI, but I'm a thorough kinda person, and I think that's what helped me beat malassezia πππ
EDIT : Some FA safe MAKEUP ! Just realized someone might appreciate the info π These are things I own (and use rarely.. I'm a bare skin and colour makeup person)
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L'Oreal Infallible Pro-Matte foundation (Shade 108 is close to NC40- 42, I believe) Rs750 for 30ml But frequently found online for a bit less.
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Insight Concealer Foundation (Shade 5 makes for a natural warm-toned concealer-corrector for NC42, Shade 2 is a proper highlighting shade, and Shade 1 I use as eyeshadow primer π These 3 have warm undertones!) Rs230 for 20ml
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Insight 3in 1 Primer Rs240 for 30ml but available cheaper sometimes. Literally FOUR ingredients! Gotta love that!
EDIT : As a kind redditor has commented below, there DO exist some fungal safe moisturizers... I'm just too cheap to buy them π And I haven't tried them! But, FYI, some products that have been kindly submitted in the comments (I have not personally tried these):
CLEANSERS:
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Sebamed Clear Face Cleansing Foam
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Simple Kind to Skin Refreshing Face Wash
MOISTURIZERS:
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Laneige Water Sleeping Mask. I used to use this, because someone gave it to me from when they went to Korea. It was amazing, but won't cure everything. Still great, though π Not repurchasing because it's too expensive by my standards.
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Epilyno Lotion (contains cetyl ester wax, which is flagged on skincarisma.com as a trigger, but not on sezia.com)
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Sebamed Clear Face Care Gel
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Dot & Key Skin Plumping Water Sleeping Mask. Glycerin is the second ingredient. Looks like a standard gel type sleeping mask, like the Laneige.. I'm considering trying it out βΊ
SUNSCREENS:
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Episoft AC moisturizer with microencapsulated sunscreen (SPF 30)
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Re'equil Oxybenzone Free Sunscreen For Oily, Acne Prone Skin (SPF50 PA+++)
ACTIVES:
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Minimalist PHA 3% toner (contains Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, which might not suit some people)
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Suganda AHA Exfoliating Serum
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Suganda BHA Exfoliating Serum
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Suganda Niacinamide 10% Serum
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Dot & Key AHA Exfoliating Sleeping Mask (they recommend to use this thrice a week, at night. It uses only lactic acid.)
Further suggestions will be added here as we go!
Posted Aug 17, 2020, 2:43 PM UTC Β· edited