How would you bodge this?
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Posted Aug 21, 2020, 2:51 PM UTC · edited
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Hmm. I'd probably not use long bodge wires to the jack unless it was pretty close, because they'll have a tendency to pick up more noise/interference than the original traces. I think your first suggestion is reasonable. I get that this is probably a ganged stereo pot with a big body, so this following suggestion might be unreasonable, but can you solder the top side? I would just depend on whether you could get soldering iron access. It won't be IPC compliant! Lol. But it might work. It would of course be a very mechanically fragile joint since any lifting action on the pins will tend to just peel the top side traces. So if I were doing it I'd bend the pins sharply sideways flat against the bottom side of the board to try and lock the component in place mechanically before I soldered the top side traces to the pins.
Again, it's a sort of mechanically crappy result... maybe your bodge wires to the jack solution is better actually, depending on how likely are mechanical bending stresses on the pot shaft.
12mm
the pot can't go on the other side if that's what you're suggesting
yeah that's going to be an issue, haven't gotten to that bridge yet
good idea, i suppose i could push (and maybe file a bit off too) the pins to one side of the hole to create more room for wires too
no I am suggesting the application of solder to the top side. Typically the pin has a bit of length on the top side of the board. One can solder to this, although it's undesirable.
i'm not following - how would i do this? i could heat the pin but there is no copper in the hole to transfer the heat or solder to the trace
Lol, yeah. Dude is very rigid about certain things. Basically a good guy, though.
Well it's not like it's a mortal sin to heat the trace! The whole "heat the pin, apply solder to the joint" thing is just a very bullet-proof way to ensure that all components of the joint are above melting temperature and have received a proper dose of the flux contained in the solder wire core.
You can first tin the trace by heating the trace and applying solder to the trace, and then arrange the iron to contact both the pin and the little "pillow"/"droplet" of solder that sticks to the trace at the same time, and then when they're both at the proper temperature apply a tiny bit more solder to glom them together and make sure that a bit more flux was added, flushing any oxides to the sides of the joint.
Again, it's not IPC compliant! They would not be pleased if you were repairing the International Space Station with this approach! But it definitely works in a pinch.
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