Source
r/SkincareAddiction•
_stav_

Percentages of UV filters for European sunscreens (La Roche Posay, Bioderma, Avene, Ultrasun) [sun care]

Sun Care

The European Union does not require sunscreen manufacturers to disclose the percentages of UV filters used and so it is very hard to find them.

Although the percentages of UV filters do not say everything about the protection the sunscreens offers, I think it is very interesting so I searched for hours to find them from countries where the manufacturers must disclose them like Australia and Taiwan.

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Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF50+

ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5%

ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 4.5%

BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 4%

BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.5%

DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 2%

TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID 0.495%

​

Bioderma Aquafluide SPF 50+

OCTOCRYLENE 10%

METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL [NANO] 6%

BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 5%

BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 2.5%

​

Avene Very High Protection Dry Touch Fluid (blue line)

METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL [NANO]: 7.00%

BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE: 4.0%

DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE: 4.0%

BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE: 2.0%

​

Avene B Protect SPF 50+

METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL［NANO］: 7.00%

BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE: 4.0%

DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE: 4.0%

BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE: 2.0%

​

Ultrasun Face Fluid Brightening Anti Spot and Anti-Pollution (blue)

DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 2.4194%

ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 2.8844%

ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 2.1956%

METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (Nano) 3.134%

BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 2.8198%

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Ultrasun Extreme Very high protection sensitive skin (red)

DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 2.6555%

ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 3.1658%

ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 2.4098%

METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL 3.4398%

BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 3.0949%

​

Ultrasun Face Moisturising anti ageing sun protection (pink)

DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 1.3867%

ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 1.6532%

ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 1.2584%

METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL 1.7963%

BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 1.6162%

​

Sunwards Baby SPF 50+ Very High Protection face – body cream

DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 8%

METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYL BUTYLPHENOL 2.09%

ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 2%

BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 2%

TRIS-BIPHENYL TRIAZINE 1.06%

​

Sebamed Lip Defense SPF 30

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 9%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4.5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2%

Posted Feb 25, 2021, 1:50 PM UTC

8455
Luph•

The % of filters is kinda meaningless to a layperson. What I'd really like to see is every manufacturer disclose PPD.

27
_stav_OP•

That is true and it would be best to have these values.

5
Hot_Secretary411•

Just plug the numbers into the sunscreen simulator and you’ll get the PPD. It’s not perfect but gives you a pretty good idea.

4
EquivalentLake6•

Yes and no because I do believe sometimes these manufacturers lie. For example, I have a product labeled “broad spectrum Spf 30” that only contains one active ingredient: octinoxate. There’s no way they can properly claim broad spectrum coverage for that. So it’s at least nice to know as a second line of defense the percentage of ingredients being claimed even though i agree it’s not like most people know what that really means, and that more isn’t always better.

1
theresnoquestion•

What is PPD?

1
Sister_Winter•

I agree lol, this means absolutely nothing to me

0†
NicholaiGinovaef•

Really like the Avene Dry touch fluid, it applies very well while being silicone and oil free and as the name suggests, it dries completely leaving a matte finish with no shine or oiliness whatsover.

So far it´s been my favourite sunscreen.

15
theresnoquestion•

I can’t stand the fragrance Avene has in all the products. I liked how they felt, and wore but the fragrance really bugs me. Even the hand creams...blech.

3
EquivalentLake6•

Yea I don’t get why they throw fragrance into everything. I actually thought they were known to be a simplified brand with a focus on not adding non-essential ingredients. I guess not.

1
Potato_Quesadilla•

Have you by any chance tried the Avène Cleanance matte SPF 50+ to compare?

1
chocosweet•

Not OP, but it's greasier than the Cleanance. Not that the Cleanance is matte on me though to begin with, it doesn't even withstand water that well

https://www.reddit.com/r/SkincareAddiction/comments/hswhws/sun_care_under_uv_camera_avene_cleanance_sunscreen/

3
Potato_Quesadilla•

Oh no, bummer :/ The velvety finnish of the cleanance is the one I like most of all the sunscreens I have tried, except for the slight whitecast. I was planning to try the tinted version but after seeing the pictures of the UV Camera...

Have you found a matte sunscreen that is water resistant and doesn't leave a whitecast?

1
chocosweet•

I'm currently enjoying Eucerin Sensitive Protect Dry Touch Gel. I use it on my body though, as I can't stand the scent. It's great, no white cast. It's shiny on my oily face however (in humid tropical southeast asia, >90% humidity)

For my face, I use Anessa Perfect UV Milk. Unfortunately it has white cast due to zinc oxide (it's a mixed filters), but it's very tenacious and stays put. I won't say it's flat matte finish, more like natural finish.

The only matte sunscreen I have is Skinfood Sunflower No Sebum Gel, but it never claims to be water resistant.

Another matte options are Australian Gold Tinted Mineral and Paula Choice Resists - but I don't think they have great UVA protection ala European/AB sunscreen.

5
NicholaiGinovaef•

Haven´t tried that one yet, I can´t imagine it having a drier touch than the Dry Touch Fluid though .

1
CutepengwingDry|Acne-prone|Fragrance-free 🇬🇧•

Did you ask the brand for these? Thanks for all your contributions to the sunscreen world Stav, as usual.

14
_stav_OP•

No, I highly doubt they would reply. I researched for hours on sites from other countries that require disclosure and saw pics of the packages, etc.

20
CutepengwingDry|Acne-prone|Fragrance-free 🇬🇧•

Wow - thanks for your hard work!

8
EquivalentLake6•

You’re doing the lord’s work haha. Thank you!

2
heftyearth•

Not so popular, it’s Spanish but has a very high SPF, Heliocare

4
_stav_OP•

Unfortunately the oil free gel and the airgel that I have tried, although usually get good reviews were absolutely terrible for me.

They leave a white orangey cast, they pill, they gather on facial hair, they feel very heavy/uncomfortable on the skin, they irritate my eyes, they are drying but not shine free and on top of that the artificial peach smell is really off putting.

3
AccordingTomorrow2•

Interesting to know, thank you!

3
Rosemary435•

Thank you!

3
[deleted]•

[deleted]

3
Jasmine_2004•

Does anyone know the % of P20 Kids sunscreen?

2
mro429•

no but the UVAPF is above 50! one of the highest i've ever seen

3
foul_dwimmerlaik•

Ultrasun Extreme is really good. I know it's made for the body, not the face, but I actually liked it on my face a lot more than their facial sunscreen. Plus it's half the price for twice the product.

2
chocosweet•

Ultrasun Extreme

I wish this works for me, but it never dries or sets at all. When I thought it has set, just a slight rubbing would cause it to pill off from my arms, what a waste of money.

3
foul_dwimmerlaik•

YMMV, I guess.

1
downheresolong•

I could have sworn most (all?) of Ultrasun's sunscreens have titanium oxide too..

2
_stav_OP•

For some reason it is not considered as an active ingredient.

2
downheresolong•

Maybe it's just there is increase the white cast! :P

I honestly can't use US for this reason.

1
_stav_OP•

I think it is very high in the INCI list to not be part of the UV filtration system. But I do not know why it is not in the active ingredients. It is the same with the Japanese milks. The percentage of the Titanium Dioxide is not disclosed.

1
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1
flowerpoudre•

Have you tried the Sunwards and if so how did you like it?

And do you believe the Bioderma Aquafluid, including the ones with iron oxides, have high ppd? I have read conflicting things with some in the 20s and then other as high as the 40s.

1
_stav_OP•

I have not tried the Sunwards. Bioderma sunscreens have high PPD values and that is obvious, they are not elegant at all. They are either whitening or they are very shiny. Or both.

2
flowerpoudre•

Yes, I have used various Bioderma in the past since 2003. Aquafluid, which I have also used, is one of the newer ones. Some places say the PPD is 24 and then I read in a french lab's website that the PPD in vitro is in the 40s. It is a big difference!

Based on what you posted, it seems like 24 is quite low for a company that knows how to formulate those % together. I ask because I need very high uva coverage and was considering going back to Aquafluid yet 24 is too low for me.

1
_stav_OP•

Yes, it is true, when Bioderma used to disclose their UVA PF values, the aquafluid had something like 24 whereas the milk and the cream had something like 40, while their INCI lists were pretty similar. The in vitro tests done by this French lab, cannot be trusted 100% but I guess they give an idea. When la Roche Posay claim a PPD of 46 and they give a UVA PF of 27, something is off. We all know now that there is great discrepancies between SPF tests. Anecdotal evidence is also very strange. Some claim that mineral sunscreens from the US, that are notoriously bad at UVA, protect them from tanning, some that they do not, some claim that a sunscreen never allows their skin to tan while others claim the same sunscreen gave them freckles. I am really puzzled.

2
flowerpoudre•

Yes, so you know what I'm talking about! I am looking for consistency. 24 to 40 is too much of a discrepancy. Same with 46 to 27. I tried the Shaka formula and to be honest, I believe the 27. 😬 Because I experienced some slight darkening (on my neck and shoulders). Or it could be that the texture is not good for getting even coverage since it is so thin and runny.

With anecdotal evidence, especially on here, you have to question several things. For example, some people are not as detail oriented when looking for pigment differences. Then, there is also where they are and the UV index for that location. Australia's Bondi Beach is different from Athens, Greece which is different from Cape Cod.

And finally, I just don't believe some of the companies (and vloggers) claiming that they can "stretch" two filters whether it is Zinc or the Uvinuls. This idea of "stretching" was at the height of Purito's popularity and we saw what happened with that. I'm inclined to believe stacking more modern filters equals better overall. Everyone I know who uses Purito and similar brands as well as mineral sunscreens have not made much strides with their melasma or freckles. 🤔

2
Arial-Narrow•

For the LRP Invisible Fluid test, I believe that Université de Nantes did not have an idea that they had to give it a good shake so as to mix the ingredients well.

2