Source
r/Irrigation•
jeffo7

Orbit Zone Valve Doesn’t Turn On

Have an orbit inline valve that won’t come on electrically. Since we are still in lockdown here, buying a new valve isn’t easy so I’m hoping to try to fix it first.

This valve is the orbit type that doesn’t have the bleed screw. To manually activate, the solenoid turns.

When manually actuated, valve turn on and zone runs no problem. When electrically actuated, controller shows around 190mA so there’s no wiring issue. When electrically actuated, the valve ‘slightly’ opens, you can hear the water squeezing by (think garden hose bent over) and water dribbles out of the micro sprays.

Not sure where to go from here

Posted May 16, 2021, 1:50 AM UTC

212
Coroxxx•

Avoid problems, buy a new one and replace... looks like bad solenoid but you don't know how's is inside, in my experience , orbit valves sucks

7
fuzzay•

I think in most peoples expereience.

5
piratebyrd•

i think in everyone's experience

6
Michaellevy93Technician•

Ohms test at the controller and the valve

Solenoid should read between 20-60. If it reads 1 (infinity) then you likely have a broken wire or the solenoid is bad.

Did you test the voltage at the valve when the zone is being fired from the controller, if it's not getting 26 volts at the valve then it won't turn on.

By the way orbit valves are trash. Even if you can get it working I would cut it out and replace with either a Hunter, irritrol, or Rainbird valve

2
jeffo7OP•

All my valves are +/- 200 mA when running. Just to rule out a wiring issue, I swapped the wires - other valve worked fine and this one still didn’t.

I was hoping to be able to repair the valve, since I NEED this zone to function (just planted annuals). Looks like I’ll be swapping valves tomorrow until I can get a new valve.

I hear what you’re saying, but for $20 I got two valves, 100’ of wire and a manifold a few years back. So even if they are garbage, it was still a great deal.

1
Michaellevy93Technician•

Fair enough, it's likely just a bad solenoid but seeing as you're buying a whole new valve I would gut the old one and rebuilt. That way you basically have a brand new valve minus the base.

2
Lime_KitchenContractor•

Quick test is to unscrew the solenoid coil and swap it for a known working coil wired to a different zone. If that fixes the problem and now the other zone is not working that isolates the fault to the coil.

2
jeffo7OP•

So I did that, however.... both zones are running now 🤷‍♂️. Will look into replacing the valve once stores open up. At least this will buy me some time

1
Toxic_Throb•

In that case it could be a janky wire connection that you jostled into place when you were messing around in there

1
jeffo7OP•

That’s what I thought. But it wouldn’t explain why the controller was reporting the correct amperage. Who knows?!

1
Toxic_Throb•

Yeah sorry, I misread your original. Could have just been that the valve needed to be bled off and swapping the solenoids did just that

1
thebigpapamike•

Sounds like you have a bummed solenoid I’d try to order one.

1