[SOTC] My year-end status update. Including books!
imgur.com/a/UpjmtSbPosted Nov 17, 2021, 5:21 AM UTC
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Posted Nov 17, 2021, 5:21 AM UTC
That Zenith is a work of art
Agree.. the one that steals the show
The cherry on top
It really is. I just stare at it all the time. Though, the back of the Speedy is no slouch either IMO.
Omega movements look tip top
I agree both with the statement about the Zenith and your username. Vostok are great indeed.
Thanks
Where'd you get that poster of the Omega movement?
Hodinkee. They have a few other movements as well and are cheaper actually than a lot of other watch art I’ve seen. I need to get it framed tho.
I'm not expecting this state of my collection to change by years' end, so here it is! Omega Seamaster GMT, Speedmaster Professional 2021 (sapphire), and a Zenith Defy Classic skeleton in titanium. Feel like with the Defy line these days you gotta talk material it's gettin' wild (damn that carbon is cooooool).
Also included my books because I rarely see anybody include theirs. What books ya'll got? Am I missing any greats? Other than the famous Rolex Mondani ones.
As you can probably tell, Breguet is goals. Though I change my mind all the time... I want my first precious metal to be Breguet. JLC in the running there too. But either way, that's probably a considerable ways off.
I can't reply with a picture, so here is the written list. I have the normal edition of "The Millennium Watch Book" and I'm waiting for the limited edition of "The Millennium Watch Book: Tourbillons" volume. As the list continues, you will get that I value excellence as a feature of people who is materialized in the best timepieces. I recently bought "AHCI, The Independent Spirit", "Vincent Calabrese, Time and a Lifetime", "Haldimann Horology" and "Voutilainen, Horlogerie d'Art" from Watchprint, and I'm waiting for "F.P. Journe, Invenit et Fecit" to be back in stock. It is to note that the Calabrese book arrived damaged as the soft cover was bent during packaging. Then there is the most important book, and the one made with the most attention to detail: "Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie with Russian Soul". A book about the one I personally consider to be the greatest maker of our time. This would already have been the most significative book for me without being a limited and numbered edition, but the surprise autographed wishes of good lecture from the Master himself on the first page is the most special thing to me.
Regarding your Defy I have no words, but I think none is needed. I very much agree with the subject of the poster behind, too. It seems to me you are currently on the Omega step of the Swatch Group looking up to the Breguet step. I very much praise both makes myself, but if we remain in the Swatch Group, I also have to consider Jaquet Droz as an invaluable element, as although of the same overall finish quality than Breguet but without all the complications, it definitely still achieves complete excellence in its own way.
Thanks for the book recs! I will be looking into those for sure. I know next to nothing about Russian watches, so the Chaykin book catches my eye. Are these (and the French titled entries on your list) available in English?
Yes, they are all available in English. For the limited edition of the Millennium watch book: Tourbillons I think some should still be available, and if not the regular edition is always a thing, just without a Breguet preface. You can purchase it on The Millennium Watch Book website to save on third parties. The other French-titled volumes are from the Watchprint website, where you can also buy the original Millennium Watch Book. Many of the books there are only in French, but all the ones I own and listed are also available in English. If you consider purchasing the Konstantin Chaykin book though, I have to point out the book is only offered in a limited and numbered edition on Konstantin Chaykin's website. Below I've written a concise recap of Russian watchmaking to get started, but it's still very long.
Russian watches during the soviet era were well built, durable and reliable, made by a lot of different state manufacturers, for the least amount of cost. They were nothing incredible but they maximized the workhorse aspect of a watch, and so many are still working well and available on the internet. The same good workhorse aspect can be said about Chinese makes and pieces from the same era, although good luck finding one today, between all the modern (almost identical to the old) watches those makes still manufacture today but with lower finish and no control quality whatsoever, arriving not working to the customers. Most of the Russian manufactures I talked about above survived up until recently, making low-end but incredible for the buck pieces, however with the current "politics" some big names like Poljot have become just another cheap Chinese make, and are not worth anything anymore. Still to be said about Chinese pieces is that some rare makes are still making great pieces (even some with good grade controlled versions of Tianjin movements, like Atelier Wen), just they hardly get noticed between the quantity of crap. Returning to the recent downfall of Russian workhorse makes, some, like Raketa, have just in time created an European based part of the brand, which still makes them pretty independent. Raketa for example is now mainly selling to western countries, and their overall characteristics have started to be more varied, better in quality and mainstream to appeal to these customers, while still being absolutely recognizable. They are also starting to make more "special" and expensive watches while building their Russian name in the West.
Konstantin Chaykin however has nothing to do with low-end watches, he is an independent self-tought who makes some of the finest and most creative masterpieces on the market. It is to note some other historical high-end russian makes like Fabergé still sometime make watches, although for Fabergé specifically I can't say where they are based now. Those high-end old manufacturers are what remains of a long tradition of expert jewellers and craftsmen during the zar era, when Russia really shined with excellence, although driven by and for the monarchy. Today most if not all the high-end Russian pieces are long gone, except for Konstantin Chaykin, who makes his own ideas but where you can still here and there definitely see the Russian tradition. In a way, none expected some fine art horologists to make it in Russia anymore, and most people already considered Russia to be done with watchmaking forever, but I'm glad a pretty young brand is still making excellence. Konstantin Chaykin himself is teaching several talented people, and the small manufacture seems to have long days in front.
Then there are all the Swiss high-end makes who have entire models or editions for their wealthy Russian customers. Franck Müller even owns a whole make, Cvstos, for that sole purpose. Those are Swiss watches, just exhalting various Russian identity and pride cues.