Source
r/Bonsai•
myopinionstinks

Hey guys, love seeing your works. Did you know that most amazing bonsai are chopped down from big trees and not grown from seed/saplings?

I'm a huge fan of promoting bonsai and i'm the leading recruiter for my club. I wanted to send a PSA to some of the folks we've seen flocking to this sub recently. Love that you folks trust us to advise you on your newly acquired elms/ficus/junipers that are "sticks in pots" often with ornaments to boot. That's where I started also. It's a fine gateway bonsai.

I'd like to see more beginners run out to the nursery and start chopping up plants. Crude wiring and root pruning to follow. Killing trees left and right will keep your excitement level up as you research. It's going to take a LOT of studying before you even know that you know squat.

Finally, most bonsai that are exceptional come from the ground. They were either grown in the ground for bonsai at a nursery, pulled up from landscapes, or taken from the wild. Big thick trunks are sexy (literati aside) and portray strength and age. This takes a long time. Rarely is a brand new practitioner going to sow some seeds and then 15 years later work on the material when it's ready.... Yes, it takes that long sometimes (i'm thinking pines especially but also fat junipers)

The Japanese kept this a secret from us for as long as they could (as I've been told by multiple masters: Bill Valavanis/Roy Nagatoshi included) but now we know:

Most good bonsai are cut down, not grown up

Also, please don't be in a rush to put a tree in a bonsai pot. Limiting the root growth by restricting space slows your tree's growth.

In conclusion:

Fat trunk > Stick in a Pot

I'm not trying to poop on your dreams, just think that beginners are better served by working with nursery material than planting a few seeds and waiting a decade to start creating and taking care of potential bonsai.

Now if you're serious about doing this, read the link on the right (that's a frikkin good list) and get your hands in some foliage. You can grow from seeds too, but that's like watching paint dry rather than finger painting.

Ignore the username,

B

Posted May 16, 2012, 7:06 PM UTC

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[deleted]•

I appreciate the PSA! I am more confident in posting relevant content.

Question: When I chop down a 15 foot tall tree when I find one, with a nice thick stump, should I then train it in the ground for a while to let it grow the next section of truck from a shoot for taper? Or can I both chop down the tree, AND chop the tree out of the ground? It's going to be a deciduous or a Cedar (tonnes of those fast growing too!) and I'm in hardiness-7b very humid (I'm looking for a good humidity tester).

The method used by y'all seems like it would kill any tree (to both chop its top considerably, and at the same time chop enough roots to fit the transplant into a crate). My catch 22 is that if I leave the tree to train in the ground, someone like yourself, but less considerate, may steal my tree, digging it up, once it looks good and is ready to be dug up for transplant to a crate.

I understand that one must dig when the tree is dormant in early Spring or late Fall, and that one must keep as much root as possible in the beginning to assure vigorous growth or at the least allow for it to 'spring' back to healthy vigor eventually.

I may start talking with my neighbor, a doctorate horticulturist who unfortunately due to economy is forced to do janitorial work currently. Bummer! His front yard is lined with all kinds of plants. Awesome!

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

Interesting timing on that question. I asked a similar one recently. It was discussed in a thread on bonsainut. It's been decided that if it's a tree that loves the shade, it may not do well past one year. So one year in the ground afterwards TOPS! It's best to take it and pot it if you can. Unless you suspect it has very weak roots. In taking the roots down and the foliage down, nbd. As long as the tree is "balanced" it shouldn't matter. in spring, the roots push energy up to make foliage, since there are no buds to push from, the tree makes new ones and then leafs out. The leaves collect energy and breath. They send the energy back down to make bigger, roots... It's a great engine. When you chop it on top and bottom, you don't kill the engine, it just kinda stalls a bit.

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[deleted]•

Thanks!

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[deleted]•

To add: I can grab some from the nursery and not have to worry about chopping roots for a few years after chopping to a stump. That would ease my concerns about the tree dying. But, there are lots of free trees around here in the forest, and I'd love to gather one (or some) from 'le nature.' So, when you pull from 'le nature' can you basically just bring home the 'stump' lol. I'm a beginner so I have no idea how stupid this sounds.

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[deleted]•

Just tell me 'Yes, you can pull a tree from the ground, chop back minimal amount of roots AND chop its top off, keeping just the 'stump and roots' and it will live with the right soil-follow-up care.'

I understand the roots need to be cut so you can't see the cuts from the top. Cut so that the wounds to the roots are pointing down.

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[deleted]•

These are answered, thank you, your opinion rocks!

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

:) this thread is rewarding if for no other reason than to see your enthusiasm.

3
stopthisnow•

Ya, I agree with the OP here as I've noticed the same thing on this subreddit too. Granted I wouldn't really expect Reddit to be the forum for serious bonsai discussion, but still I would encourage anyone who is actually interested in bonsai to take this advice to heart.

If you just enjoy growing seeds or just enjoy growing plants that is totally fine. Honestly I don't even care if you call the "stick in a pot" bonsai if it makes you feel good, but if you are actually interested in developing the hobby then you'll need to start reading up and branching out. The "mallsai" (i.e. twiggy junipers with the figurines and small glazed pots you buy in the mall) are totally fine as a gateway drug and I don't hate on em, but they really aren't bonsai.

You want to really see what it is all about? Check out the side-bar links, read some books from the library, then go to a garden center or nursery and look for the trees (not the seedlings!) and buy a few to chop at and wire and see what you can do. I've got 10 or so plants I've been tinkering around with for 2 years or so now and I still don't have anything worthy of going in a bonsai pot. That should tell you what sort of long-term view you are looking at (and I'm not working with seedlings or even particularly young trees!).

OK, rant done, and I don't mean to discourage anyone at all from what they are doing or bonsai as a hobby in general, but if you want to get serious the examples on this subreddit aren't really your best role models.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

co-signed

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Hayden1911•

Nice pun.

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sofaroth•

Since this is a pretty much an advice for beginners post about how to start, may I as a beginner ask a question? What do you and other bonsai knowledgeable people think of growing peppers as bonsai? I am currently trying it and really enjoying it.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

If you're having fun then what do you really want to know? I don't think they are good bonsai material. But isn't enjoying yourself more important than what a stranger thinks about your choice of bonsai material? I love to see your peppers btw. Make a post?

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sofaroth•

Here and here are two pictures of my best one. I'm sorry I'm not much of a photographer.

This Golden Nugget plant is roughly one year old. Near the end of last summer I took this pepper from the larger pot that I grew it in all season, trimmed it down and kept it in a smaller pot over winter. Now it is back out in a larger pot where it will grow until it's time to be trimmed down again at the end of the summer and brought in for the winter.

My first year trying this as an over-wintering method has gone pretty well in my opinion. I managed to get a few peppers throughout the winter which was awesome and I get to start the season with pepper plants that already have pretty thick little trunks.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

I absolutely LOVE that second picture. The leaves of fruit-bearing plants, as I understand it, can not be reduced. That being said, they aren't ridiculously large and I think it still works. Even the nebari is developing well. Great show!

You got a handle on that leaf issue?

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sofaroth•

Thank you. If you are referring to the white spots on the leaves don't worry, golden nugget peppers naturally have white on the leaves. If you are referring to the couple wilted leaves visible in the picture I'm hoping that it is just a little transplant shock or a reaction to being placed in a location that gets several hours more sun than the plant had been accustomed to or maybe getting more water than it is used to since now it is in a larger pot and can't use up all of it's water in between rains.

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JasonZeppelin•

that second picture looks cool!

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sofaroth•

I guess what I was wondering is if anyone here had tried this and if so if anyone knew if peppers make good plants for learning the bonsai basics or of if they are just too different from trees. My main thing that I have been wondering for a while though is if it is okay to discuss my chile bonsai in this subreddit or if this sub is purely for real bonsai discussion.

It seems like there is an interest in seeing them so I will try to get some new pictures and post them after work.

Thanks

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bruddahmacnutLos Angeles,USA - Zone 10b•

But keep in mind, should you encounter any difficulties, there will not be a wealth of advice for you as your are "treading into new territory" vs. going with a more common bonsai species where there would be a wealth of advice and info.

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mkr7IL, USA. 5b, couple'a maples and a ficus•

My bonsai teacher said "anything can be a bonsai"

I think the woody trunk is nice, and it looks to me like a tree in a pot. That's all you really need.

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Kaeltro•

seconded, I want to see this :D

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PeanutButterW0lfN. Alabama, 7a, 20+ trees, Always a Beginner•

This.

And here is the article that really helped me understand this aspect of bonsai: http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm (this site is linked in the sidebar)

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xljj42<Dallas, Texas>, <8a>, <Beginner>, <5>•

I would like to try growing one of the local oak trees as bonsai. There are plenty that are a few years old (trunks about 3/4 in thick). Do you know of any good books or guides available online that could help me?

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

I would say go bigger! Why not chop a 2incher down to about a foot and digging it up in late February or something... You'd have to give me some more details to get good advice on timing.. USDA zone that is. I dug up a hornbeam, having no clue, but it lived and now I'm the wiser for it. Your turn. Google fu and then grab a spade!

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xljj42<Dallas, Texas>, <8a>, <Beginner>, <5>•

I'm on the Gulf Coast. Not sure what the zone is. 8b I think. Plenty of young oaks and pines to choose from.

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TotaLibertarianMichigan, Zone 5, Experienced, 5+ yamadori•

I bet your could find some really nice bald cypress too.

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xljj42<Dallas, Texas>, <8a>, <Beginner>, <5>•

There are a few scattered here and there.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

I would say you should google 'collecting bonsai trees from the wild' and watch youtube and read blogs. I would imagine you'll be digging in February. Most species like to be pulled up right before the growing season. This is a good time to start marking your targets. Some people trench trees in fall and backfill the area with turface to promote root growth closer to the trunk. Might be a good idea if they are growing in hostile environments.

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xljj42<Dallas, Texas>, <8a>, <Beginner>, <5>•

Thanks for the advice. I'm moving in December to Oklahoma, so I'll probably get there and scope out for interesting trees first and go from there. Thanks for the help tho. ^_^

1
highlift•

On your recommendation, I'd like to repot my ficus nerifolia into a larger pot. Should I be concerned using too big of a pot? Will just general bonsai soil suffice? Any other general tips or suggestions for me?

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

Hw big is the tree? How big is the perspective pot? What do you consider regular soil? It's an inside plant? Pics with perspective!

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highlift•

here is a link to pictures of the tree i posted when it was struggling a bit. http://imgur.com/a/dX6CE I have 2 ceramic pots I could use that are 7 and 8 inches across and 8 inches tall. If those are too big, I'm willing to buy a new pot that is more appropriate. Regular soil being what I understand to be bonsai soil as advertised (Turface Calcined Clay, Peat Moss, Pumice, Small Fir Bark, Vermiculite, Sand) I was more curious if using a much larger pot if the soil type or composition needs to change. Thanks for the reply :)

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

If ou ae in the south, it might not be the bet time to repot but if you want this bigger, stop pruning th eleven, g it in more soil and feed it for a few years. The better the starting material the bettertheproduct.

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achancesw•

Recommend a book?

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

Yes. I recommend them all. I read John Naka's bonsai techniques books, 1 and 2 first as loners from my club. Most clubs have libraries from which you can borrow. The library probably has some also. And now a days, reading blogs and watching videos from masters (not long haired wannabees) Is also educational. You will see conflicting evidence. My advice is to seek a local club as they will hav the best information for your area. Beside that, follow the advice of people who have trees that you like.

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flarboSacramento, 9b, intermediate tree tinkerer•

I recommend as many as possible too, however this is the one that I personally like the best http://img2.imagesbn.com/images/152660000/152661982.JPG

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TotaLibertarianMichigan, Zone 5, Experienced, 5+ yamadori•

had to smile when i saw that book, just loaned it to a friend whos gettin in to the hobby.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

ya know, i was surprised by how many bonsai books were downloadable

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LetoTheTyrant•

By cutting nursery stock you're not talking about creating a new tree from a branch are you? root hormone and such?

I would like to get some small trees from trees in my yard, or maybe even trees close that I could tend to.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

I mean grabbing up boxwoods and junipers from a local nursery to practice wiring, styling, horticulture. Cuttings take a long time also. Maybe you skip a year or two. Think big trees! 14 foot trees with 2 inch trunks that you can chop down and regrow leaders/branches on. What sort of trees are local to you? Maples? Hornbeams? Some kinds of oaks... Does your neighbor need a hedge taken out with boxwoods/azaleas/junipers?.... Think big! Also, you can go on craigslist and find people offering their shrubs up for free if you dig them.

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LetoTheTyrant•

I know what you mean by big and I have done two like that, but I have a japanese maple that I don't want to get rid of, but would like to make some more to put in the g round and in bonsai eventually

by get rid of I mean pull up and turn into bonsaid

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

I hope I didn't misconstrue the message. I think growing is a very rewarding exercise. I'm growing cuttings and seedlings all over the place. I just don't want beginners to think they have to plant seeds to start enjoying bonsai.

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LetoTheTyrant•

I understand what you are saying. I just haven't ever taken a branch off and turned it into a bonsai (you could get a 2 or 3 inch branch from what little I have read) and have a viable bonsai, but I'm not really sure how one would do it.

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gription•

Novice here, I've had several sticks in large pots for a few years. Im trying to get them as big as possible. I fully accept that they are not bonsai (yet!), but I can't help thinking cutting down old trees and throwing them in small pots is cheating. I was attracted to this art because of the required patience, but cutting down older trees seems...contradictory. I fully accept that this is the Japanese secret, but I can't help feeling a little let down. This being said, I still love it all.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

the most beautiful bonsai in the world are sometimes hundreds of years old and pulled from mountains. the art is really about making the miniature representation of a large and ancient tree. The kind of trunks that you know couldn't have come from any artist but mother nature that takes generations to develop. Every bonsai comes from some original material and then shaped into its final form. Why not start with older material? Sorry the secret ruined it for you :( But keep on doing whatever makes you happiest in bonsai!

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caseygailVirginia - 7a•

im not really understanding this concept. so if you cut a big branch from a tree and plant it it will start to grow roots and develop into a new tree?

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SheepepperMinnesota, Zone 4a/b, Novice•

Yes and no. They don't mean go out and cut a big branch off a tree (a small branch will grow roots but it defeats the purpose). They mean out out and get an ENTIRE tree from a nursery and (skillfully) butcher it. Cut it down to a third of the height you want the final result to be and eventually and carefully prune the roots until it will fit in the desired pot.. to put it simply.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

well said.

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TotaLibertarianMichigan, Zone 5, Experienced, 5+ yamadori•

But cut it down 1/3 taller then you want your final tree to be. better safe then sorry. you have all the time in the world to work out the trunk and branch structure, and you never know exactly where the tree will bud out.

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[deleted]•

I'm pretty sure this post is aimed at my posts of my fucking sapling.

I am keeping this little fucker alive to learn how to care for a tree, while I learn how to actually bonsai. This article and all the others are good, some are contradictory, and the links have all been good sources of information.

I'm interested in pulling some trees from my area, NW Washington. Trees live all over this area, so I'm going to be grabbing the ones that live in this area. I don't like the idea of killing a tree on accident that was doing fine in nature, just to learn my bonsai. But I guess ... whatever. I'm still going to try and actually cut down a big fucker to a foot tall, transfer to a big crate and slowly cut back over years the roots until I can fit in a pot.

For now though, I'm just looking for a job. Once that vital task I have to complete is done, I can start buying supplies so I can start on bigger projects. Oh and I'm reading, I'm reading a lot. I'm going to have to put my 'twig' in the ground to get it large, i get that. Problem is, I'm going to probably only afford an apartment, and I might not even have ground floor to plant things in the ground. So, I'll have to work with already thick trunk trees.

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[deleted]•

BTW I changed my username from what it was, but I'm the one posting 'stick in a pot.'

If I live another 60 years, until I'm 90, I'll have this twig grown to a full bonsai in this same pot lol.

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[deleted]•

[deleted]

1
[deleted]•

I don't see the big deal with using a different pot. Maybe I'll change it, but maybe not! I hear it won't grow much if it is in a small pot. I'll need to get new soil though, what, every 30 years?

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

Much much sooner than that. You will basically need to understand how quickly your roots are growing. You don't want the roots to get bound. Larger plants get replanted every 2-3 years, longer on old "finished" trees; especially pines. A seedling won't need it as quickly but you're hopefully going to be moving that thing to better conditions ever few years.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

It wasn't a jab at you personally nor your seedlings, mate. I'd just like to see you enjoying some nicer trees in your collection before you're an octogenarian! Let us know when you start collecting in feb/mar.

1
[deleted]•

I appreciate the time bumpp! See you dudes in febmar!

I will post after my first collections and chops!

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eddiexmercury•

I love this stuff and would love to try it, but this seems overwhelmingly complicated.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

I agree. There was so much information that it DID seem complicated. And it can be. But remember that most of the time, you're simply waiting for trees to grow. Only need to "touch" a tree a few times per year and sometimes less than that. When you are ready to start, try sticking to species that thrive in your area and are hardy. I'll gladly answer whatever I can if you make a thread

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TheAgreeableCowMelbourne, US9/AU3, Exp.•

Here is an example I have of a Chopped Trident, which helps illustrate this technique. Each photo in the album is a year older.

The tree was originally about 5 foot tall, and it was then chopped about 6 inches from the base in Winter. I then let the leader grow all year and made another chop the following winter, and so on. At the same time I've selected the branches I want to retain and let them get quite long before cutting back.

It's got quite a way to go yet, and I might do another chop back down the trunk in future. But it's certainly going to develop much quicker than others I have growing from seed.

2
[deleted]•

Did you leave it in the ground when you chopped it to 6 in.?

Also, nice picture tutorial!

Also, nice set up!

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TheAgreeableCowMelbourne, US9/AU3, Exp.•

It came in a large plastic pot from the nursery, so I just left it in that. To be honest it should still be in a much larger training pot now. Although even in the small pot it's in, the leader branch has grown up to 4 foot in a season.

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metricbot•

4 foot = 1.22 meters

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[deleted]•

Ah yes. I grew up moving between Australia and the US. So I know the difference. Metric system is way better.

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TheAgreeableCowMelbourne, US9/AU3, Exp.•

1.2192m :).

The tridents can grow very fast!

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[deleted]•

OK, I'm just curious about pulling plants from the ground right now. I was thinking it should be in a bigger pot too, not that I'm any expert (my username should be BonsaiNoob420). I like the growth rate you speak of. Did you use a mixture of pumice/granite and bonsai mix? That's what I have. With a dash (10%) of sand. EDIT: the bonsai mix is black gold bonsai mix.

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TheAgreeableCowMelbourne, US9/AU3, Exp.•

I get a handmade mix from the local bonsai nursery. Not sure exactly what is in it, but it is very gritty. I also fertilise using worm juice and worm farm castings.

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TheAgreeableCowMelbourne, US9/AU3, Exp.•

Found a photo of that little trident with just one seaon's growth http://imgur.com/PlipH

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

Are you pruning the roots every second season?

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TheAgreeableCowMelbourne, US9/AU3, Exp.•

I repot (usually into the same pot), annually for nearly all of my bonsai. Most of my pots are just slightly oversize for the trees. This is not something for the purist, where there are style guidelines to determine trunk to pot ratios. So i have mine small enough to look attractive, but big enough to let the trees grow freely for at least a year. I've also got a few in training pots (aka foam fruit boxes).

Edit: spelling.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

Nice Work. I'd love to see how you built your benches and have your watering set up.

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protomor•

Air layering FTW

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Quote_Unquote•

I'm very new to bonsai (mostly in the research stage) but I'm pretty familiar with general gardening and plants.

I have a couple questions:
When chopping a tree from the wild, is there an intermediate stage, or does one simply go from ground to bonsai pot? I would think that the tree would need a year or so in a large nursery pot because of the shock to the roots.
Also, is it better to dig up the tree when it is dormant, or putting out new growth? I live in Canada (zone 5a).

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

The more roots, the more growth. Some species (hornbeam, beech, bald cypress) don't need hardly any roots at all to bounce back. Some need as much as possible. Pines don't like extensive root work for example. I'd not put them in a bonsai pot right away. I WOULD however try and find something shallow to put them in while they recover so they are more easily potted in a bonsai pot. Might take a few(3-5)years to go from a dig to a pot depending on the health of the tree when you found it. You're right that most trees prefer to be dug while dormant. You've a good head on your shoulders. Let us know when it's go time.

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Quote_Unquote•

You've a good head on your shoulders.

I know this was an off the cuff remark but it made me stand a little taller. Thanks for that.

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jgustavo85Costa Rica USDA: 11b / AHS: 6 Experienced 30+ trees•

Definitely understand your point, for beginners if you want to see results within a short time, it would be best to buy old trees from a nursery or bring trees to your home from the mountains and give appropriate follow-up.

Start the process of bonsai from a seed, if you really want to see results must wait about 20 years to see a tree with good potential.

2
graffiti81•

I'm actually looking at a very old sugar maple (I have a photo of my house with the tree in front from 1905, and the tree is about 14" in diameter at that point) trying to decide how I can take a branch off it that would make an awesome bonsai.

The branch is about 1.5" in diameter and has great movement to what would be the trunk. Problem being, the "trunk" is only about 4" long, so I can't determine how I would be able to air layer it without losing too much. Maybe air layer the branch it's on and sacrifice the rest of the 5" branch. Or maybe grafting, although I don't know how I'd graft it that low to keep it from being obvious.

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

Yea, you'd want to open a wound up about 2 - 2.5 inches so you'd basically lose your trunk. Also, if there is no foliage above the layering site, it won't produce roots. Might need to pick a new branch.

1
graffiti81•

Oh, there's plenty of leaves, I'll take a pic and PM you later today if you're interested. As I was mowing my lawn, I noticed the big branch with a smaller branch off it that looked just like a fairly well established bonsai. I've been wracking my brain to figure out how I could take it and not kill it.

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BaconPandaMississippi, US; Zone 8a; Probably still a Beginner•

Couldn't agree more. Get nursery material and look around you for more.

2
Hayden1911•

I've had a juniper that I've been working on for about 2 years now. I put it in a pot straight away. That must be why it hasn't really thickened at all. Thanks!

2
funnymanisi•

Only problem is that it takes 10-20 years to fix up the trunk and branch the guy correctly. =)

1
noface•

It takes more than that to grow an impressive bonsai from a 'stick'

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myopinionstinksOPEnough 2b a Danger, 7a, Virginia•

Naw man. Unless you're working with some really challenging material or if you're making a HUGE tree. Not sure where you got your information from. Of course it will look better as it ages.

2
[deleted]•

I figured that was the sport. Tricky Japanese folks, tricky.

EDIT: I figured 'time' and/or 'patience' was the sport. And, even if you 'cheat' time and patience are still part of it I guess.

1
TotaLibertarianMichigan, Zone 5, Experienced, 5+ yamadori•

In the first year you should have figured out which adventitious shoots will become your main branches, and in 3 you should have basic leaf pads. Coupled with the kind of trunk and nebari that can only be found in the ground I'd say that's fucking awesome.

1
funnymanisi•

In 3 years you can't heal scars from big cuts. Unless you cut down a little scrawny tree.

1
TotaLibertarianMichigan, Zone 5, Experienced, 5+ yamadori•

it depends how much you let them grow. I have a willow with a 2inch trunk that I started last spring and it had a scar on its trunk about an inch wide and 3 inches tall, it has healed almost completely and now there is only a 1/4in gap. I find this awesome because like you i thought big scars took much longer to heal. In 3 years with good growth you would be amazed at how much a tree will heal.

Also you can have an amazing bonsai with a scar or 2 as well most big badass old trees have big scars. And they are always healing.

1