Rim options for 2.6" or larger tires and the mysteries of chainline

Bike Tech and Kit

Bikepacking counsel - I'm searching for advice on several things, some of them of a more technical nature but given the use case for this build and history of posts I've seen in this sub, I thought it better to post here vs r/bikewrench.

Background: I recently nabbed a Kona Unit X frame in size L that I'll be building into a bikepacking rig with the secondary functions of basic single track and gravel rides with extra thick tires. I've done a lot of traditional bike touring and have been primarily a road cyclist for much of my life. The last few years of owning a gravel bike that I can stick fatter tires on has given me a decent amount of bike packing experience too and I'm reaching what I've theorized is the logical conclusion of anyone who gets into cycle touring: a rigid fork MTB with fat tires that you can put a whole bunch of stuff on and eff off into the wilderness : )

I've built up several road and city bikes in my time and do most of my own maintenance so I'm not totally clueless, but I've never owned a modern MTB and some of the standards I'm wholly inexperienced with. This will be a 1x12 build with a mix of XT and SLX parts as I find them over the next few months.

That leads to my questions:

  1. The Unit X if ordered as a complete bike comes with i30 rims and 29" x 2.6" tires. I was planning on doing the same for my build but realized that if anything i'll in the future put thicker tires on it (my gravel bike can already handle 2.1" with style) like 2.8" or even 3.0" so I should probably find i35 or even i40 rims to accomodate. There doesn't seem to be too many of these rims/ wheels around though so I'm keen to hear what your experience with bikepacking on 29" x 2.6" is like and models of suitable rims and wheels.
  2. With these builds I buy as much as I can used or source from my parts bin. One thing I may buy new is the crank (I already have a DM chainring) The one thing that has me puzzled is the chainline. I don't understand the difference between the three 1x XT cranks that Shimano offers 8100, 8120 and 8130 or more specifically which fits my use case here. I plan to use 110 x 15 and 148 x 12 wheels. Kona for some stupid reason doesn't have a manual for this bike anywhere I can find so I don't know what the right chainline is.

Thanks for any help!

Posted Sep 8, 2022, 1:09 PM UTC

110

I’m running 2.8s on Velocity Blunt 35s that are 30.2 internal and it works great. If you’re riding Enduro or racing I think rim width is more important to handling. Personally I don’t want to max out rim width on an bike packing bike because I want to protect the area of the sidewall closest to the rim as much as possible because it’s the hardest part of the tire to repair. Plenty of non boost cranks and BBS out there.

3
DevouredOP•

Thats a great point about the sidewalls that I'd definitely not considered. I mean realistically I'm not gonna be shredding hard on this bike as I have minimal MTB skills or aspirations. I do intend to set the whole thing up as boost though so I guess that 55mm chainline crank is my best bet, per the other comment.

1
Megaloceros666•

On cranks: Shimano is still supporting non-boost chainlines w the 8100-1 (135, 142) and you might be able to use that crank on a Boost 148 OLD frame but the chainstays may be too close to the “heels” of the cranks (‘specially once things are flexin on the trail). The middle version is what you want, and theres one for the Super Boost 157mm frames that started gaining traction right when the pandemic hit. You mentioned you already have a DM chainring - is it for this crank? DM isn’t a common standard between brands, there are still several options to sort through.

2
DevouredOP•

That makes sense and seems to suit the frame which is built around 148mm boost in the rear. The DM chainring i have is a XT 32T 12sp model SM-CRM85 lightly used and picked up cheap.

1
adie_mitchell•

i30 is fine up to 3" and you have a lot more options in that size. i35 is probably the sweet spot as it still allows you to mount a "normal" width 29er tire in a pinch. I'd say find a rim or wheelset you like in the i30 to i40 range and go for it.

As for cranks, I believe the q factor and chainline vry slightly.

FC-8100-1, 172mm, 52mm, 142/148, Narrow q-factor option for 148 OLD

FC-8120-1, 178mm, 55mm, 148, Max clearance option for 148 OLD

FC-8130-1, 181mm, 56.5mm, 157, ie superboost.

So 8130 is out, and between 8100 and 8120 depends whether you prioritize narrower q factor with smoother chainline in easy gears, or ok with wider q factor because you want maximum mud clearance.

1
DevouredOP•

Thanks for clearing that up i'm only use to road widths and chainlines. It's true I'm having a way easier time finding i30 rims for sale both used and new. I think i'll go with the 8120 for wider chainline so clearance for bigger tires is there. If i'm doing my job right I expect it to get muddy as well. I really dont know what to expect with Q-factor width.

1
adie_mitchell•

My hesitation with the q factor would be that you're used to a considerably narrower road q factor, so wider may be a bit of an adjustment. FWIW I run 2.75s with non-boost spacing. I have a bit of an issue in mud so I wouldn't recommend. But boost is already an improvement. So if you mostly are thinking 2.6" tires...I would stick with the narrower chainline.

2
jackieboybikesalot•

I give you da option to rim dis 🍑

-6
jackieboybikesalot•

Aw man y'all are no fun.

-2
DevouredOP•

I mean, I chuckled but it wasn't helpful haha

1