First attempt at magnetizing
Posted Oct 12, 2022, 2:21 PM UTC
58237
What size magnets did you use?
20
3mm x 1.5mm
13
Cheers!
6
Use a hand drill and go slow. The hole you drill will be off angle if you apply too much pressure in any one direction.
Also, you might want to go just a little deeper than you would need and then drop a tiny piece of molding putty under the magnet. This brings it back flush to the surface and will be somewhat malleable, allowing you some leeway to get the magnet flush and perfectly straight before the glue dries.
And make sure you keep track of polarity (don't attach a magnet backwards). They are finicky, so need some trial and error, hence lots of opportunity to get it wrong.
17
Oooo, molding putty! I never thought of that!
Great suggestion. Thanks!
6
Is greenstuff the same thing as molding putty?
1
My steps for magnetising are:
Use a hobby knife to bore a target hole. It’s easier to get the centre point right with the tip of the knife than with a drill.
Use a 1mm drill bit to deepen that hole to the required depth (this creates a path for the next step).
Use a bigger drill bit (that matches your desired magnet) to widen the hole to the required size. Because you have a pre-drilled path, it should go exactly where you want it. For thin pieces, make sure to keep finger and thumb on either side to hold the plastic together. Big drill bits in small pieces have a tendency to tear the sides unless counter-force is applied.
Works a treat for my Sisters, who have tiny arms.
5
Oh, I didn't realize the gif wouldn't auto play! The image is a gif and not just a janky ugly image!
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Autoplays for me :)
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Turns out I had disable auto-play turned on!
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Nice one. Only ever done Knights and Vehicles
3
i think this is really cool but i dont know what the pount of magnets is could someone please explain
3
Sometimes models (usually vehicles but some infantry as well like Space Marines) have lots of kit options for weapons. While most people are cool with someone saying that their Leman Russ tank with a battle cannon is actually equipped with the vanquisher cannon for the purpose of rules some people can be sticklers about it. There is also tournaments to consider but I honestly don't know much about those and how accurate your models must be to your list.
Getting back on topic, sometimes people also like magnetizing their models to accurately portray their army list or to just save money. Why buy 10 Space Marine vanguard veterans with 5 equipped one way and 5 equipped a different way when you can just buy 5 and magnetize their weapons to swap out whenever you want? Just an example but I hope that explained it well.
There are plenty of resources on places like YouTube that can help you learn the process of magnetizing your models so if you are interested in learning more you can always look it up.
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Also sometimes with rule changes and all, the ‘meta’ of what loadout is best may change over time, if you’re really into the whole min/maxxing thing
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Lots of models in 40k can have different weapon loadouts that you might want to switch between for different situations, or just for aesthetics. You can also change their poses, give them a helmet or let them show their face, stuff like that.
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For this particular unit? Nothing but cosmetic. For other units: The ability to hop swap load outs, and make it WAY easier fore everyone.
A better example would be a Primaris Lieutenant. They can use a sword, pistol, and/or storm shield. This would allow me to swap out say the sword/pistol arm for a shield without having to do the whole "this dude has this load out even though it doesn't LOOK like he does."
2
thanks for explaining that for me.
1
Terminator kits are by far the easiest infantry to magnetise.
The torso has two large flat surfaces to stick the large flat arm joints to and there's not that many different pieces total.
Two halves of the torso, hips and legs, each arm and the heads.
3
What glue or epoxy did you use for bonding metal to plastic? I used clear Gorilla Glue micro precise on my first magnetizing project this weekend, and it did eventually work pretty well, but it took nearly a full day to set and cure.
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I used Gorilla Glue Brush and Nozzle. I just swab the inside of the hole, pop the magnet in, and let it sit for a few minutes. The magnets are fairly weak so even if it is partially set I haven't had any issues with them pulling out.
2
I use Loctite Gel Super Glue. Its cheap, sets almost instantly, doesn't drip out, and hasn't failed on any of the 30-40 models I've magnetized.
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I love magnetizing. I just magnetized a Forgefiend for a friend a couple months ago. I love being able to have any number of options.
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That sounds awesome!
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Mine is fully able to convert between forgefiend and maulerfiend with ANY of the options (besides magma cutter, I don't use them so I didn't bother magnetizing that bit)
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I never thought of the magnet's usability for posing, nice
2
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1
If you're worried about pauldrons, 3d printing is the answer. I assume you don't have one yourself, but you can buy buckets of printed pauldrons on line for not much money. For something that small, quality should be bang on for the genuine article.
1
I made a template magnetized left arm and right arm which will attract each other.
When magnetizing a new piece, I use one of these, put a second magnet on it, put a drop of super glue on the top magnet, and insert it into the hole. This ensures that the glued magnet will sit flush and not go deeper. I wiggle it a bit while the glue is setting in case the glue comes out and tries to glue the two magnets together.
I tried to magnetize pauldrons at first but gave up as it was too difficult to align and drill at the exact right spot. If you do go that route, I would use thinner 2x0.5mm magnets on the inside of the pauldron if it has enough attraction through to the magnet connecting the arm to the body.
1
I saw the size of the magnets, but what brand? Where did you get them from?
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This is the product I ordered from Amazon.
I've also heard K and J magnetics are a great source of magnets.
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i just use a bit of blue tack or poster putty to swap out diffrent pauldrons, pauldrons are not a structural part of most models, and you cant tell the diffrrence between using glue, apply a little pressure and they will remain in place and be reasonably firm.
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The mechanicum and machine god would be proud
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“Annnnnd GIMME my sword… aaaannnnddd GIMME my shield…”
1
What drill did you use?
1
You could use Dremel 2050/Engraver for the holes.
0
Why would you need to magnetize bladeguard?
It is all for aesthetics I guess. Do I want Sword/Pistol? Sword/Shield? That cool one where they are cleaning the blade? I can swap out how they look. They are also the only units I have that I haven't built to completion yet.