AKADriver

https://www.costco.com/p/-/kirkland-signature-mens-cotton-jean/100513855?langId=-1

Order in the next couple days and get $10 off three items.

I just got mine, quality is great. Heavy weight and good stitching.

I'm looking for ways to improve my basement humidity problem. I live in a very wet climate, my basement often gets humid enough to promote mold. It's sort of partially finished. Open ceiling, probably not adequate insulation, sheetrock walls, vinyl floor straight onto the concrete. My goal isn't to have a finished comfortable living space, but to have storage/mechanical space that isn't dank and moldy.

The sump pit currently has a plastic lid that's cut away quite a bit to fit around the drain pipes, would making a 2-piece lid that closes more of the sump off help? The sump pump doesn't run very often anymore, we used to have poor drainage but I fixed that a few years ago. The drain tiles a

My intent is to either:

Develop a definitive repair system specifically for the S14/15/R33/34 fuel tank

Or source a roto molding supplier that can produce economical reproductions, with some slight design improvement to hopefully avoid future cracks.

I'm located in Virginia and do not want or need intact tanks, only busted ones.

I'm sure there was a writeup somewhere else (zilvia?) at some point, but if anyone was unsure, you can replace a stock U-joint in a stock driveshaft.

The part I used fits both the rear and center U-joint on all S13 and S14, should also fit the front joint of a Silvia/180SX driveshaft.

https://i.imgur.com/7dAqfrQ.jpeg

The process that worked for me, working at home with nothing special tool-wise:

1. Don't bother trying to press the old joint out, get your angle grinder with a fresh cutting disc and carefully cut the spider of the factory U-joint. Just chop it up until it falls out making sure not to nick the yokes. When

My car has 127,000 miles and the original dust boots and bumpstops were roached, also the original struts were starting to get a little bouncy, mostly noticeable under braking, a little more nose dive and quicker rebound than I would like.

I found the springs used on Facebook Marketplace from a 2014 ST, new Koni STR.T struts for a Fiesta application, the lower spring isolators from Ford (CV1Z-5414-A), KYB upper strut mounts, bearings, bumpstops, and dust boots (all same part numbers for Fiesta and 2), and re-used the KYB monotube rear shocks I had already recently installed.

You can't use the Fiesta front struts with stock Mazda2 springs - I actually bought those first because some retaile

Background: the rear cat/midpipe for my 2009 Forester rusted out, so I bought an aftermarket one. It's nicely made except it's 2-1/4" tubing (57mm) instead of the factory 60mm so an OEM replacement donut gasket fits loosely. The pipe came with a flat gasket and normal bolts, I guess they expect you to use that instead of the donut and spring bolts, but I would rather use the factory configuration.

I know I can find a universal 2-1/4" ID donut gasket, just want to make sure I'm on the right track before I return the 60mm ID gasket and buy it. Thanks.

I just picked up a used grill for dirt cheap and the factory wire grate is pretty well used up. I'll clean it up enough to be usable in the short term but I was curious if anyone ever replaced it with a cast iron one. Traeger doesn't offer one for this model. I measured the original grate at 15-3/8" x 20". It looks like grillgrates.com makes their design at that exact size but it's quite expensive.

It looks like older 2-burner Weber gas grills use a 15" x 22-1/2" grate, if I can't find anything in the exact size I'm confident I could get generic cast iron grates for one of those and cut them to fit. But I was hoping someone had some specific recommendations.

I've currently got my car pretty significantly taken apart while I do rust repairs. Most bolts came out OK but a few broke that I do have replacements for. Still I want to take the opportunity to replace some stuff that was really rusty and gungy when it came out.

Looking for just typical OEM style plated flanged bolts and nuts in an array of JIS sizes. No stupid DIN/SAE 13, 15, 16mm heads like you get from the parts store.

Also if anyone knows, is there a good generic replacement for 16557-35F00 (MOUNTING-RUBBER,AIR CLEANER) - the rubber bushings for the airbox? Mine are all trashed (torn or swollen with absorbed power steering fluid). It looks like an easy junkyard find because it cross