BZLuck

I have a bunch of Dots and Spots in my sign shop set up as a group.

One Dot sits on top of a large format printer. Sometimes while loading a roll of media on that printer, it will make a loud noise as the spindle is engaged.

Often times, that Dot must detect that as a loud noise, and shuts it all of them down until I tell it to continue playing. I'm thinking something like the "fall detector" on my Apple Watch?

Anyway, I can't find a setting that turns that "feature" off. Any ideas?

YEARS and YEARS ago, I bought my mom an iMac, a scanner and a Canon Selphy photo printer and a bunch of the ink/paper packs. This was at least 10 years ago. Probably more.

She is now much older and is in an assisted living facility and I am getting her house ready to sell and going through all of her stuff. I found four (440 prints worth) unopened boxes of the KP-108IN dye sub "ink" and photo paper.

Is there any chance they are still good? Her whole computer/scanner/printer system is long gone, so I would have to buy a new (or used) Canon CP Selphy printer to find out. If I buy new, I might be able to return the printer if they don't work. If I buy used, I'm stuck with it.

Any idea if 10

I bought a U1 for our RV TV system. It's a 37" Insignia Fire TV. I bought it it to control the TV itself, an Apple TV and the surround sound amplifier.

When I first bought the U1 and programmed it everything went perfectly. Couldn't be happier. All the other remotes went into a drawer. Yay!

However, we had to do a factory reset on the Fire TV this last camping trip to get an input to show up and I had to re-add the U2 through the Fire TV bluetooth menu, and then remove and re-add the Fire TV to the U1 remote.

Everything seems to be working fine except for one thing: The U1 no longer turns on the "cold" Fire TV. I have to use the actual Fire TV remote to power on the TV, and then the U1

Govee says the maximum length you can string the Pro lights is 200'. I presume that is as ONE string? Is there any reason you can't have two 200 foot strings just plugged into the same power strip?

They may not synch perfectly but you should be able to tell them to both display the same "setting" and they will, right?

Note: We live in a "Candy Cane Lane" area in our city where thousands of people come to look at our lights and decorations during December. I'm getting older and am 100% ready for 'permanent' lights that I don't have to hang and remove each year. TBH, putting 400' of lighting on the eaves of our 2 story house isn't totally a silly thought.

I am a small sign and graphics shop in Southern California. I make a lot of my products in-house, but not everything. There is a local wholesale company that creates all of my fabric exhibits and displays. Since I hold a valid California resellers certificate, they don't charge me sales tax on my orders.

However I recently had them fulfill a good sized order and drop ship it directly to my customer's event in Phoenix, Arizona.

They charged me sales tax on this order, citing that I would need a resellers certificate from Arizona to be exempt from that sales tax.

I'm in California, they are in California, my customer's event is in Arizona. Should they be charging me sales tax?

I've been playing this game for a while. I started with BBs, but found that DDs are more my playing style.

For s's and g's, I decided to buy a sub and check it out. I bought the Gato with a coupon and only play it (for now) in Co-op battles while I learn about how it works. (Hard to get used to forward and rear firing torps for sure!)

I'm confused about something though. Can I only fire torpedoes from periscope depth or when surfaced? I can ping boats with the sonar from any depth, but once I do, and hit my mark, if I try to fire a homing torpedo, it says I can't fire it from maximum depth. But even at 34 feet, (which isn't maximum depth) it still won't fire. Only at 10 feet (periscope) o

I see that MRE's have become pretty reasonably priced recently. I've kept an A and B case around in our garage or pantry for most of my life. I used to give them out when they got old, and sometime had one for fun. This batch went WAY past my usual turn around time though.

From what I can tell (and historically speaking) from the stamped bag codes, they appear to mostly be from 2010. (Because they are for sure not from 2020.)

Since a new A and B case combo is only like $75 on Amazon should I just toss all of these and start over?

Maybe open 'em up and take some of the 'good stuff' out? What parts other than the napkins have the best chances of still being safe and staying good? Thanks!

I bought one of these joysticks a few years ago for an "10,000 games!" emulator box. My wife and I finally got around to really checking it out yesterday and we both thought the joystick felt very sloppy. It just feels loose and sometimes adds and extra movement when returning to center.

After doing a little reading it would seem that the SANWA JLF is the "go to" joystick mechanism?

Questions:

• Can I tighten the F101?

• Is the Sanwa plug and play if my F101 has the 5 pin connector (currently empty) next to the 8 pin connector that the current joystick is plugged into? Is that 5 pin port (marked J3) active and ready?

• Is the Sanwa likely going to feel more like I would hope it will?

My wife's [off the showroom floor] 2003 CR-V finally bit the dust. We upgraded it and found a really nice looking, well maintained, full records, one owner, clean Carfax, 2014 EX-L CR-V. (2.4L FWD) Full service records, no accidents 66K. The dealership even fixed the VTC rattle as part of the deal. We just paid for the parts.

We've gone through a few tanks of gas with it now and it seems to only be getting about 20 mpg average.

Her old, falling apart, 2003 got like 25 mpg without even trying. More like 27 on a freeway tank. (Also a 2.4L but AWD.)

Where should we be starting to look? Tires and PSI are fine. Thanks!

We just bought a used (2014) Honda CR-V and we suspect it has the VTC actuator grind problem. We realized it after starting it for the first time this morning after we drove home yesterday.

After talking it over we realized that the 2 times we drove the car while we were at the dealership, they had started it and "warmed it up" so when we did start it, it wasn't a cold start.

I have an ODBII reader with iPhone app. (carscanner.info)

If some kind of error code came from this issue, and they cleared it, is there an "event log" somewhere that we can see? Even just to check on any codes that might have ever come up in the vehicles life. Thanks!

I have an Orbi RBR50 router and three RBS20 satellites in our home. Overall, they seem to be providing my house and front and back yard with a good solid wifi connection to the internet.

My issue is that in some cases, when a wifi device is connected to a satellite and another device is connected to the base station, (or a different satellite) they often act like they are on different networks and can't see each other.

2 examples.

We have an Apple TV 4K that is connected to the RBR50 base station/router. If my iPhone is connected to the router, the "remote control" function works fine. However if I move into a different room, and my phone jumps to a RBS20 satellite, it won't see the Apple

I hope I'm in the right sub here.

What can I use to block light in-between wooden fence slats?

In our backyard there is a small sloping hill about 60' wide and 12' "deep". On the top of that hill there is a 6' tall west facing wooden fence. Behind that fence is about a 10' easement (it is our property) and wild plants and bushed grow back there. There is one crazy bush with purple flowers that squeezes in-between the fence boards all along the fence looking for sunlight and just makes a big mess on our slope and damaging the fence.

We just paid someone to trim everything back, and clear out space behind the fence, and now there is room behind the entire fe