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I'm trying to troubleshoot an old (2005-ish) Electrolux fridge where the fridge part (it has two compressors) stopped cooling and just clicks off after a few seconds of what sounds like a fairly normal compressor running sound (tried a known good relay, didn't change anything). Trying to figure out if the compressor (ACC, HVY44AA, can't find any data on expected winding resistances) is OK or not by measuring the winding resistances. However I'm getting some weird readings that don't seem to fall in line with what's usually described as expected.

There are the usual three pins on the compressor, with one on top and two on the bottom. Between the pin on top (which I assume is the common point

So I just noticed that there now apparently is a new product called G8 that has HDMI input and ARC support. But...am I reading it correctly that it doesn't support SXFi? If not, why on Earth would you do that? You make a product that's (finally) literally intended for use with consoles and home entertainment...and you leave out the best feature you have available in that area and instead make a weird hybrid product that has relatively contemporary features but when it comes to the actual audio, it is stuck with headphone virtualization that's essentially two decades old at this point?

I'm quite happy with the recent update to HyperOS, I have to say, except for one thing... Come on, Xiaomi, there's plenty of space for more than one notification icon! This is bad, really bad. Especially since some of the hidden notifications are supposed to be priority ones.

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https://preview.redd.it/m2pbzd5hs89c1.png?width=1220&format=png&auto=webp&s=66a5f8b2f08f45615c5705e929111707f43f2f5b

So I've been doing some testing of Gen3 personalizations again on my X3 using the up to date apps (Creative App and SXFi app), and sadly noticed that as part of that testing, my old Gen2 profiles seemed to have disappeared from my list. I'm not exactly happy about that, because I had my best sounding profile there and was intending to go back to it after the testing, but now it's gone.

Is there any way to still create a new Gen2 profile at this point? Or recover those previously created? I can't get the Gen3 profiles to work for me very well, they always sound a lot less "spatial" and the side and rear channels sound almost identical (not quite, but almost) to front channels. With Gen2,

So I'm trying to replace the humbuckers on my HSH guitar with another set, because I didn't really like the neck humbucker and it was also not coil-splittable. The bridge humbucker is currently coil-splittable via push-pull pot and is noise cancelling in the 4 position with the middle single coil. A slight complication here is the fact that both of those humbuckers are the "no polepieces" types, as in they look like active EMG pickups, but they're normal passive ones - so without the polepieces accessible, I'm not 100% sure which coil of the bridge humbucker is actually used when split - the voltage measurements seem to suggest it's the North coil, as I would assume it should be for noise-ca

So I know that there has been a lot of talk in the past about how seeing voltage spikes up to 1.5 V in low load situations is perfectly normal on these CPUs, but one thing I couldn't find an answer to despite a fair amount of searching is...why does the CPU do that in the first place? What's the purpose of pumping such high voltage into it? It only seems to generate heat, but otherwise doesn't seem to serve much purpose. Surely I'm missing something?

I mean my 3600 can run AVX Short FFTs Prime 95 stable at around 1.25V at 4250 all core OC (which is still lower voltage than what FIT pumps into the CPU on full auto mode in this test at lower frequency). The temperature at "idle" (not a real i

I currently own both the SB Omni and the Titanium HD. I like the Omni features and sound a lot (despite its weird design) and I would really like to replace my current setup with one external audio card in general, but one thing prevents me from full-time using the Omni instead of the Titanium HD - whenever the Omni is "active", as in either playing audio or even being used as an output for either Voicemeeter or the "Listen to this device" Windows feature (which I need if I want to use only one sound device), a device called "Legacy Kernel Caller" pops up among the devices that prevent the PC from going to sleep (which you can see by running "powercfg -requests" from an elevated command prom

For anyone interested, I've managed to find all the locations of the stages featured in Dirt Rally 2 (it's not as easy as it might look as they usually are in a different location than the game suggests, and there are other complications as well) and have posted it on RaceDepartment:

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/dirt-rally-2-stages-in-real-life.167966/

I always hear how the FFB in this game is horrible and broken and non-existent and I don't know what else. Well, I really like the FFB I am getting, and I consider it being a step up from the first game in most respects, and easily comparable to any other sims.

So, if you're interested in my settings, here they are. Absolutely no XML tweaks (I hate them and most people don't even know what they're actually doing):

https://photos.smugmug.com/Misc/Games/Dirt-Rally-20/i-BhTmVzx/0/e1e9cb60/O/%7BB1427B82-8055-4C31-9F1F-9E6E6C09C76C%7D.png

[https://photos.smugmug.co

OK, through some pretty awkward and tedious process, I've managed to get my pedals (G25 with a Bodnar adapter) working with my T300 in WRC7. And I can even use my shifter (again G25 with a Bodnar adapter) as a handbrake.

Here's how to replicate what I've done:

1. Launch the game and don't touch anything on your wheel at all. Use your keyboard. Be aware that when the game tells you to "Press Enter or Start", what it actually expects you to press is Space, not Enter. Don't ask me, I don't get it either.

2. Go to Options, Controls, Steering Wheel and Axis Detection. Be sure to get ready for the next steps here before you do the actual detection - you only have one attempt at this per game