ComprehensiveSpeed90

Any backpackers in Savannah? I’m 26M and often drive up to Asheville to do 2-3 day stints on the trail. Wondering if there’s anyone here that does the same! Would love to get a little group together if anyone would be interested.

My company is looking at options for a gimbal upgrade. We run a V-Raptor and cne primes with some power hungry accessories. We’ve had our Movi Pro since it released in 2016, and although it’s a great gimbal, it will need significant upgrades from Ignite Digi to support the power draw of the Raptor, nearly $5000 worth with new TB51’s.

Which begs the question: should we just upgrade? Is that even possible? What are people using for full-size gimbals these days where form-factor is important? We need to be able to hand-hold this gimbal through tight areas, so heavier gimbals or steadicams aren’t an option. It’s surprising that since the Movi Pro and Ronin 2 there have been no updates from thes

2005 430 with 119K miles. Previously one-owner car, Louisiana owned, older couple. I’ve owned the vehicle for around 20K miles and I’ve noticed poor quality upshifting. Most notably 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 feels lumpy or very slightly lurchy. There’s also a small bump from 5-6. All of this is not enough for a regular person to notice, but absolutely enough to notice when driven everyday, and this type of shift quality isn’t on track with what I’ve heard about how smooth this vehicle and is supposed to drive.

Trans drain and fill 10K miles ago, shop said the fluid looked pretty clean for its age, but it made no difference to my symptoms.

Sent the ECU to Tanin for a refurb, got it back and the pro

Anyone know the exact hardware length, type and pitch for BudBuilt front skids?

I’ve lost the hardware for my front skin and refuse to pay $30 for replacement hardware from BudBuilt.

Curious what everyone has been quoted to replace knock sensors and sub harness on their rigs. I’m asking my shop to replace both sensors as well as the harness.

Also curious if it’s worth replacing injector o-rings while they’re in there, or if there’s anything else worth doing.

In 10K miles I’ve gone thru two pairs of CV boots. Most recently I tore both inner boots, last time it was the outers. They’ve torn away right near the clamps.

I’m on a 2.5” lift, bilstein 5100’s and OME springs. Any advice as to what to do? I’ve heard some people do a diff drop, others seem to have luck with aftermarket CV’s with better sleeve materials? What’s the move?

97 SR5 currently with 296K miles. My shop changed my valve cover gaskets about 1000 miles ago, and on my way to work this morning I had to floor it on the highway to overtake a car. Soon as I did that I had a P0325 code come up. Cleared it and came back immediately.

I’m very frustrated I didn’t have my shop replace both sensors during the valve cover gasket replacement, now 1000 miles later I’m shelling out for for all that labor again.

Question is, do we think the VCG replacement had anything to do with the sensors failing just 1000 miles down the road. And two, would y’all hesitate to drive the car with one of the sensors failed? Perhaps I just drive it easy with a higher octane fuel?

Why is it seemingly so difficult to find a thread related to this that actually makes sense. I’m after the best sounding, most future proof (latest BT generation), most durable. That’s it, period.

Don’t care about ANC, don’t care about mics, don’t care about $50 budget earbuds. I simply want the best wireless earbud, money is no object.

Every thread I come across someone suggests a model; the Momentum 4’s for example, and when I dig into the model I see they’re absolutely plagued by connectivity and quality control issues. I feel like I’ve been thru this process of finding a highly recommended earbud only to dig into research specific to that earbud and learn it has massive drawbacks.

For

We have a Raptor-X in a Movi Pro. Powered via the cam port p-tap off the Movi to the 4-pin on our Mutiny battery plate. On the battery plate is a Bolt 6 XT trans. And then from the battery plate’s 2-pins I’m powering a Cine 5 and a Mutiny ISO X2.

Previously I’ve been running the nucleus-m via 3-pin off the battery plate, but started encountering random shutdowns while recording, which in turn corrupted some footage. Nice. So I got rid of the run-stop and plugged the nucleus directly into into the AUX p-tap port on the Movi. This worked for about two days, and then once again we started experiencing shutdowns while recording. So I then got rid of the Mutiny ISO, and we’ve been fine since the

Love my 2005 LS, but the issue I’ve always had is it’s miserable to drive at low speeds. The 1st to 2nd lump in stop and go traffic is a nightmare and not smooth whatsoever.

I’ve read there is a TSB to address this, so I’m curious if anybody has gotten Lexus to flash their 04/05 ECU with this TSB and how much diag it took (I’ve heard they’ll want to do a few hours of labor before they’re willing to flash it)

In the meantime, I’ve noticed that snow mode significantly dampens the throttle-by-wire, and low speed stop and go is significantly easier. Anybody else use this in their day-to-day?

I’m planning a photography backpacking trip of Linville Gorge for mid-July this coming summer. From all my research, I’ve loosely settled into starting at Wolf Pit Rd on the south-side of the gorge, and traversing up to Gully Pipe, followed by Shortoff Mountain, and then moving along the ridge line until eventually hitting Table Rock Parking Area (and potentially including the Table Rock summit if time permits). Likely setting camp on Shortoff to hone in on some more time there.

Wondering if any locals or photographers recommend any particular outlooks along the way / if anyone can speak to photographing the Gorge from prior experience. From what I’ve read, this side gives a better landsca

I’m curious what everyone thinks triggered their original diagnosis (if that’s not too personal of a question). For me, I went to an urgent care for strep throat, got a massive dose of antibiotics, and then BOOM… diarrhea that never went away, diagnosed with UC 9 months later. I expect the antibiotics wrecked my gut microbiome, inflammation resulted, and some sort of gene finally switched.

Research about causes for UC always seem to come back to “environmental” for at least part of why we get the disease, but it’s interesting knowing or hypothesizing on the actual trigger that resulted in initial symptoms.

05 430, 113K miles. Had my alternator replaced by my shop about 3000 miles ago. Right after picking the car up I noticed a low rumble sound from the front passenger side of the engine bay, didn’t think much of it but it’s since gotten worse, and I’ve realized it only makes noise when my AC is on. It can be just the blower, heat, AC, anything - if the climate system is on in any capacity this rumble noise starts. It sounds like a bearing, a gravel type rumble.

I replaced the idler pulley, no change. ChatGPT seems to think the AC compressor bearing might be the cause, but it seems like Lexus only sells the entire compressor ($582). And from what I see online, price on labor for this repair va

Just got a Raptor in with brand new Bolt 6 1:1 and Mutiny Raptor IO. For the life of me I cannot get the TX to successfully lock onto the Mutiny GM plate. It will slide and power but it will not lock.

Same thing with a shark fin — the TX will not lock onto the core plate. It’ll slide onto an Anton Bauer plate just fine, but not Core.

Is this a known issue, do I need to loosen anything? What am I missing here?

My company is upgrading to a V-Raptor X, but unfortunately they want to stick with their existing EF glass and because of that need to adapt from the RF on the Raptor. I’m having trouble sourcing a solid RF-EF adapter with ND capability. In discussions with KipperTie, they were making an RF-EF electroStrada a few months ago, but I believe they decided not to go thru with manufacturing.

There is the Revolva, but I foresee potential tray clearance issues with the Bright Tangerine Leftfield cage. There’s also the Adapta LCwith the LC Mini variable ND, but I’m unsure on image circle compatibility with that.

Ideally, I want to find an adapter that isn’t going to vignette with our Canon CN-E 14m