ControlEngineer

My scope is a bushnell match pro which has 18mils of elevation. Converted to MOA that is ~60.8. If I used a 30moa base that only leaves me 0.8MOA, or 0.24mils for dialing targets closer than my zero (50yds). Therfore a 30MOA scope cant is biased too far towards longer distances in my opinion. Does my math, and assumptions check out? Am I missing anything worth considering? I feel like a 25MOA base would be the sweet spot considering the range of adjustment in my scope. I don't see any options for this, I assume stacking a 15MOA base with 10MOA rings is the only way to achieve this but if anyone knows of another 25MOA solution for the CZ 457, I'm all ears.

I was hoping to find a black Friday deal on one but haven't been able to find anything. Also, it seems that Midway and Bushnell sites ate the only ones who carry it. Are there any others I should be aware of? Thanks.

Looking at a base class build as NRL22 are the only winter matches that interest me in my area. I much prefer the chassis type rifles, so it's between the Ruger Precision Rimfire and the Savage B22 for me. I've seen the RPR discussed a bit here, but would like to hear about any experience with the B22. Also, if there is another chassis type rifle to consider, I'm all ears.

On the back of my ELS belt I keep two safariland AR mag pouches stacked on top of each other. I make ready with the outer one and use the inner as a backup. When running I've noticed that backup mag and pouch flops around a lot, even with a single mag. My initial thought was to make something out of kydex to keep things from rotating as much. Has anyone thought about this or found any solutions?

I was hoping to spectate this match. Hopefully I am able to just show up. Will there be anyone there as well I could connect with and learn a bit more about competing?

Potential stupid question, fair warning...I just installed a new PSU and the computer would not boot. Lights on mobo and GPU lit up, but when the power button was pressed things acted like they wanted to start up (I heard a click). I did not replace the SATA power cables with the ones that came with the new PSU, figuring that those could be reused. Was I wrong to assume that? I hooked up the old PSU and things booted fine. I just don't want to go any further with a potentially bad PSU, and risk damaging anything. I have had bad out of the box PSU's before. TIA, this group is the best.

For all the trusses and braces and build up parts focused on the Dana 30. I am curious to hear peoples in person accounts of how they saw a Dana 30 fail. I know I've read plenty about supposed weak spots, but I have only seen axle shafts break due to u joint failure myself, never any issues with the housing.

So please share your stories of how a Dana 30 failed and be sure to include some details about tire size and how much of a beating they were taking at the time. Thanks!

For those that have cut out their rockers/pinch weld and replaced with square tubing. What size, and wall thickness did you use? Any damage taken to the tubing while wheeling? Any thing you would do differently if you did it again? Thanks.

Has anyone had good luck with an inexpensive led replacement headlight that still maintained a nice cut off line, so you aren't blinding other drivers, and didn't cause interference with FM radio reception? Thanks in advance.

I was hoping someone could share a link to any project enclosures that have provisions for mounting a 16x2 lcd in them.

I know it wouldn't be hard to just carve/dremel something out of a generic project enclosure, but was hoping to find something with a bit more polished look to it.

I rode a 600 for my first year and then went to my SV for track duty for several reasons. Even though I have an extra year of track days under my belt I feel like I was much more comfortable leaned over on the 600 vs the SV.

My initial thought is that this might have something to do with the narrower rear tire of the SV, and that creates a different feel vs the wider tire of the 600. But I wanted to get some opinions of others.

Perhaps if anyone rides an SV and has gone with the 180 rear, with or without swapping the wider GSXR wheel, they can share their impressions as well.

I have heard many people refer to this generation of R6 as highly desirable for a dedicated track bike. What is it that separates it from the previous generations? I have been looking for evidence in specifications but I don't see much difference between the 06-07 gen and the 08+. Thanks in advance.