DMala

I spent 80 bucks on two lengths, to do three doorways and threshold for a laundry area.

The biggest problem is you basically can’t test fit anything, because as soon as it starts to slot into the track, the stupid cardboard tabs will break off if you try to pull it back out.

The laundry area is OK-ish. The problem there is that I needed the transition down, but not as much as the piece they give you has. Trying to trim it clean and straight was a nightmare. It looks OK from 5 feet, but if you actually look at it there are all kinds of gaps and unevenness.

Another bedroom was just a simple T molding, but it’s sitting loosely and again has gaps with the floor. I suspect the tabs cracked

Setting up a Schecter 006 Deluxe in C# standard for a friend, and I've run out of adjustment room on the bridge trying to get the low E and G strings intonated. It's a hardtail with an ABR-1-ish bridge. With the saddles maxed out, they're both still ~10 cents sharp.

I've got 11-54s on it already, not sure if going any higher will make a difference. I was going to try flipping the saddles to buy me another few mms, and I managed to snap an adjustment screw head off. I've got a new bridge for it now, but I'm wondering if it's even worth trying.

Are there any other tricks to squeeze out a little more adjustment, or do I just call it good enough? It's going to be a chuggy-chuggy doom mac

This is probably more just idle musing than a serious idea, but I'm curious... I've been going deep with pinball simulation recently, and I was fairly shocked to discover that the latest VPinMAME is forked from MAME 0.76. (They call it "historic" in the VPinMAME doc, but "paleolithic" seems a more apt description.)

I kind of get why, given the architecture and all of the pinball simulation infrastructure built on top of that. I wonder, though, if it would be feasible or even possible to build a shim of some sort that would interface with modern MAME scripting, but still provide the VPinMAME COM interface so that Visual Pinball and whatever else would continue to function the same.

I have a 50 foot outdoor Cat6 cable that's going to run from my ONT in the basement up to my second floor condo. I'd like the basement end to have a jack, so I have flexibility in running the cable through the basement, both now and in the future. I bought an Ethernet coupler, since the cable is already terminated and I don't feel like messing around with punching down a connection.

The issue is that a standard 1-port surface mount box is too short for the coupler and wire to fit. Before I bodge something together, does anyone have a line on a box that would be deep enough for this?

Setting up a Schecter 006 Deluxe for a friend and he wants it in C# Standard. I put EB Beefy Slinkys on it ( .011 to .054). I have about .010” relief in the neck, and about 6/64” on the low E and 4/64” on the high E, all of which seems decently high and I’m still getting buzz like crazy, especially on the low strings.

Any tips for setting up for these slack tunings? What’s my best option to get rid of the buzz? More relief or just keep bringing the action up?

I have two CRTS, a Nanao FlexScan F2-21 19" and a Hitachi CM615 17". Previously, I had them connected to an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260 via DVI-A adapters. Both ran just fine at 1024x768@85hz and looked great.

Recently I "upgraded" to a GTX 1050 Ti and got adapters for the DisplayPort and HDMI ports. The Hitachi, which is somewhat newer, is identified via EDID and still runs fine at 1024x768@85hz. The Nanao (which pre-dates EDID, but supports a pretty wide range of resolutions and frequencies) is identified as a generic display, which was also true before, but is now limited to a maximum of 75hz refresh rate. Which is usable, but looks decidedly worse than it did before.

It doesn't seem to

The pilot tube on my Weil McClain gas boiler is completely corroded, to the point where it was in two pieces. Not sure what happened, since the unit was serviced ~1 year ago, but anyway…

It seemed like straightforward and safe enough DIY repair, but I’m stuck on a step that shouldn’t be difficult.

I purchased this kit: https://wal-rich.com/product/1-4-x-1-8-x-36-pilot-tubing-kit/ It looks basically identical to the existing hardware, and seems to thread just fine into my gas valve and pilot nozzle.

If I understand it correctly, you poke the tube all the way down in the fitting, thread it in to where it goes, snug it down and the ferrule should crimp onto the tube and snap off of the nut.

I have an old Logitech Z-640 surround system on my MAME box that I never bothered to set up properly because it never used to matter. Just for the heck of it, I set it up as a proper 3.1 setup (no space for the rears, sadly) and discovered that mono games route to the center channel by default now.

Then I discovered that you can route the audio anywhere you want - L+R the way it worked in stereo mode, left alone, right alone, all three. Or my favorite, route it to the LFE channel. It's pretty fun in Space Invaders to have a second route to the LFE channel running at +3dB and rattle the walls with the thump-thump of the invaders.

The effects are also very cool. I'm playing around with

Anyone else run into this with a Sonicake Pocket Master? I upload a NAM file using their manager software, it seems to upload OK, says it succeeded, and the file name shows up in the slot. But if I try to find it in the clone list on the box itself, it's not there. And if I flip to another page and back in the manager, the slot shows empty again.

I've also found at least one that loads and sticks, but doesn't pass any audio when selected. Yet, some NAM files will upload and work just fine. These are all downloaded from tone3000.com I assume there's some property in the files that's not compatible, but is there any way to tell? Trial and error kind of sucks, e

When a comment is submitted, the edit window disappears and the comment never shows up in the thread, even after reloading the page. Happens semi-randomly but fairly often. Usually submitting the comment again succeeds. Might be related to the length of time it takes to type up the comment before submitting? Hard to tell for sure. This is new behavior, just started happening in the last few weeks.

Firefox 134.0.2, Windows 11