DerStro

As a necessary evil to pay for seat time, I spend my days as a software engineer.

I'm also pathologically intolerant to tedious work - to the point I will invest dozens of hours of effort to automate something annoying that only takes a few minutes.

As a result, I would like to share IMUVideoSync.

You give it your raw video and CSV logger export, it gives you an exact offset that you can paste into RaceRender or your video editor of choice to sync the video and data. It works by comparing the IMU data in your camera (yaw/pitch/roll/accel) against the IMU data in the log file to find where they sync up and determine the offset ba

I have a BK2 with the bolt-on style of rear axles, where they bolt to the splined shaft which slots into the diff.

Anyone know what the torque spec is for the bolts holding the axle to the spline?

The service manual only shows the single piece axle and thus does not give a torque spec for these bolts. They are triple square and I assume have a quite high spec so didn’t want to just guess at it.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a lightweight single mass flywheel for a BK2 3.8? The Competition Clutch one on genracer that I've been eyeballing is now discontinued and I'm not seeing any other real options out there.

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Stock power, full time track car (don't care about chatter), would prefer an all-in-one kit if something like that exists as I'll need to be replacing my exploded slave cylinder and whatever else it took out as well.

Took a set of RT660 tires to get flipped on the rim at a shop, they refused the work because of the sidewall wear. They’re clearly worn, but I was hoping to sneak one more weekend out of them before the cords started to show. Is the clear line between the carcass and the tread (?) an indicator these are done? Or could I have gotten a little more HPDE life out of them.

https://preview.redd.it/9b62fty6irxb1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6231b9fa75003b5f923bbe5dde428058f312a7d0

I'm replacing the OEM wheel studs on my track car with 90mm extended studs to be able to safely run a 15mm slip-on spacer. I do not have access to a press, so I am tapping the old studs out with a hammer, and then using a Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer pressed against the flat face of the rotor hat to pull the studs in with a light/medium duty impact gun at about 100 ft/lb.

This worked perfectly for the first hub, but have since run into issues. The studs appear to be fully seated in the hub, but are seemingly not perfectly perpendicular to the hub which is causing just enough misalignment that my 15mm spacer is not able to slip over the ends of the studs. The wheel/rotor will fit, but be

In the shop manual, it calls for a ride height of ~15" in front and rear. Does anyone know what point is used for this measurement? It's not in the shop manual as far as I can find.

For context, I'm trying to measure and set the rake on the car.

I'm aware GDS can do this, but GDS also requires (to the best of my knowledge) a laptop to actually run the software.

Can anyone recommend a standalone OBDII-like scan tool for the gencoupe that can cycle the ABS pump and let me fully flush all brake fluid in the system? I see there are a number of them on amazon that claim to do it, but would like to consult the group at large before spending money on something that may or may not work.

I'm chasing an issue where I get a soft-ish pedal after hard braking and want to rule out old fluid in the ABS system as a potential cause.

Hi,

Recently I had a new motor installed in my car, a 2014 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8L V6.

On cold start my oil pressure is ~100psi but drops down to about 30psi at idle.

I haven’t tried a test drive yet, but did run the RPMs up once while up on stands. Oil pressure builds to 100psi at around 4k rpm and seems to hang there.

I have a temp sensor on the sandwich plate outflow to monitor oil temps before the cooler and a pressure sensor on the inflow to measure pressure after the oil cooler but before the filter.

As suggested by Mishimoto I am using the OEM spin on filter from the 2.0L I4 motor option that also comes with this car.

I am using Motul 300v 5w30 (stock oil weight) and verifie