FalconARX

I'm looking for the most scratch resistant finish/anodizing/treatment you can get for a flashlight. I have a coworker whose birthday is coming up, who basically lobs her flashlights into toolboxes and grinds it with her keys and multitools in her pack with reckless abandon. Her lights all look like they went through the woodchipper, and the woodchipper lost the battle.

She previously carried a Nitecore P20iX for reference, ended up losing it. So, I wanted to find her a light for her birthday with a finish/material/anodizing that is as scratch resistant as possible and would be similar in efficacy to the P20iX...

Am I right to assume that raw steel or titanium, or at least HA-III for alum

Earlier today I had a lively discussion with a group of coworkers and rangers who were talking about minimal light levels needed for various areas around the parks. And while the conversation started with lighting around outside of buildings, roads/tunnels and walkways and new LEDs for upcoming street lamps, it eventually ended up on flashlights.

Obviously in zero light situations, you can get away with very minimal light, maybe around 100-200 lumens for walking comfortably around a campsite or navigating to the restrooms. But then we started listing caveats to every situation. So for example if that 100 lumens is from a mule, it would be useless to have for walking around. And if it's con

My Inteleon sitting waiting in lineup goes from 100 to 0 health? While my Blissey is taking hits?

Anyone else getting complete random crap results from these Ho oh raids?

We'll take shadow damage where we've already swapped out to tanks to take hits, and the tanks are fine while the Pokemon that was just swapped goes to 0 health...

Then there's raids where not a single Pokemon fainted from the 4 players.

Infuriating as hell.

Weerapat showcased the Convoy M21K+SFT90 in this video, along with a quick comparison between it and the LHP73B in 5000K.

I actually have these exact same models, and if anyone is curious what the beam profile and performance looks like, particularly when it comes to spill/flood and clarity at 100 and 200 meters distance, his video of this and the M21K+LHP73B/5000K is an excellent demonstration of their capabilities.

I've said it before, that if these lights were just better sealed against moisture/dust ingress, they would match, if not outclass lights like the Acebeam L35 2.0 or Streamlight Protac HL6.

Banggood has the Astrolux WP3 on sale right now for under $140, for those of you who really wanted to wait around for the sale of this LEP. Well, it's here, and this is about as good as it gets. Don't know how long it'll stay like this with limited stock.

Didn't see this posted anywhere on the sub, and it's from back in August last year. But it includes the Olight Prowess, the Nitecore EDC35, the Acebeam L35 2.0 and the Nebo Davinci 5000L, a lineup of 5000 lumens plus lights that are often posted on the sub. An interesting look to go through, with a TKLamp output/runtime and lux meter result, and my favorite, or maybe my dread, the drop testing.

From Torque Test Channel:

https://youtu.be/EBPQKeeYTfo

Not specifically flashlight, but heavily related. As some of you who are in CA may have heard from the news, a couple hikers went missing over the weekend in Yosemite National Park. It was, for all intents, all hands possible on deck for search. Although through the last two days and night, a swath of nearly a hundred square miles were combed through a combination of drones, air/satellite and ground-manpower, it was frustrating going through the night through Sunday into early morning Monday with no sighting. My group wasn't directly involved yet, but got the call to assist early today, and it was the best news we could have when we were told that we were no longer needed for the best possib

For those who have swapped out their TIRs in their D3AA lights, how hard was it to take the TIR out?

Did you have to pry the TIR out with tools or did it just pop out with a few shakes?

For whatever reason, all 3 of my D3AAs seem like their TIRs are glued in. I've tried prying one out with suctions and eyeglass tools, with no luck. It's got to the point of warping the edges of the TIR and all it's done is slightly wiggle the TIR.

Let me know how yours is... Literally every other Hank light I've got that was TIR swappable, the TIR lens pops out with just a few shakes, or little effort at all.