NoNumber1

Since the most recent update I’ve lost nose wheel steering. I haven’t changed settings, I’ve switched back to default profiles on my HOTAS, and also tried controller. Auto rudder is on, that also didn’t solve it. I’m not in an F18, it’s every aircraft. Any suggestions?

I keep two Symfonisk lamps in my bedroom, one on each bedside table. I’ve always been reasonably happy with them, but felt that they never wowed me. Decided to try tucking my Sub Gen 3 under the bed on its side and pairing with the lamps. What a difference! Of course the sub makes everything better, but this is the first time I truly felt the soundstage open up. I could also really tell that mids and highs were far more full and rich than before. Incredible addition to my listening experience.

I was watching a television show with a lot of very low base and noticed that I was hearing quite a bit of rattling. I thought maybe it was the surrounding furniture or even the walls but after moving the sub around it appears to be the plastic shell of the subwoofer itself. Additionally, when I press against the sides it creaks noticeably. Is this a defective unit? Cheers

Hello! Yesterday I test drove a 4 door Big Bend at my local Ford dealership. It’s very cold here (-30 Celsius, -22F) so I got to see the 2.3 cold start, and then we went inside to let it warm up for awhile. The moment I pulled out of the parking lot the left blinker was stuck on and the vehicle began alerting that the forward camera and lane keep assist needed to be serviced, despite it not actually having a forward camera. I was unable to dismiss the messages with the steering wheel buttons, so it was stuck like that until I returned to the dealership. I also couldn’t get it out of 4wd when this happened. Anyone had similar issues in the cold?

Hello! I am stumped. I have an inexpensive TL-SG105 switch by TP-Link which advertises 10/100/1000 wired Ethernet. I’ve been having trouble streaming local content from Plex, DLNA, Jellyfin, etc to my Apple TV 4K. When I run a speed test within the Apple TV streaming app I see speeds of no more than 20 mbps when wireless, which causes buffering on larger files. Typically I run my desktop on WiFi (wifi 6 AX) off my eero 6 router.

When I run a speed test on the desktop I see approx 200 mbps (this is my rated speed). When wired I never exceed 100 mbps.

I have checked that the connection is recognized as 1000 mbps in Ethernet settings.

Furthering the mystery, when the connection from my co

My partner wants to get me a sub for Christmas. She’s been eyeing the Sub Mini at $550 CAD, but with the Sub Gen 3 $190 off, the difference is only $220 CAD. If I were to cover the difference, she’d buy the Gen 3 instead of the Mini. I live in a 3 bedroom apartment and it will be on a corner that does not have a neighbouring apartment. I do have neighbours above, however. I know the Mini is ideal for this space, but I intend to keep my Sonos products for the foreseeable future, and there’s no kill like overkill. Maybe someday I’ll live somewhere that befits the larger Sub.

What would you do? Can I turn the Gen 3 down enough to not piss off my neighbours?

Cheers!

I’m currently reading Fate is the Hunter (and you should too!). I am already feeling the dread of finishing a great book and would love more suggestions. Non-fiction or fiction is fine. Anything aviation related is fair game!

I recently built a PC and have been running into significant buffering issues when trying to use Plex. 4K video which is about 50 mbps cannot play despite having an Eero 6 router and an Asus WiFi 6 card in my PC. Television can be either wired or wireless, neither is sufficient. Lastly, today when I was playing a first person shooter my girlfriend launched a movie on Plex and the game became unplayable. How can I be having a local network issue with so much available bandwidth? Any help is appreciated!

I recently purchased a Corsair 4000D airflow case and an ROG Strix B500-f motherboard. The case has a front USB C port and accompanying cable, but my motherboard only has USB 2.0 headers. Is there any sort of adapter to be able to use the USB C port (at 2.0 speeds of course), and if so, is this safe? Thanks!

Edit: if helpful, the front IO is USB 3.1 type C

Hello everyone! Wondering if anyone else has a monitor that supports FreeSync with VRR enabled on their Xbox? Other games work great, but flight sim flashes and stutters pretty regularly and it drives me wild. Anyone else have this experience?

Like the title says, do we know anything about connecting to Foreflight or other EFB apps when simming on Xbox? Not having Foreflight would be a real bummer for me. Cheers!