PC509

My glucose level was at 106MG/dl (fasting) this week, showing possible prediabetes. The recommendation was to cut simple carbs, sugar, and exercise more. I'm already sugar free, eating whole grains and not many simple carbs, and lifting weights and training to do a mountain climb (Mt. St. Helens). I'm trying to gain lean muscle weight, so calories are up, but it's mostly protein and whole foods. So, I don't know where to go from here. It's not a bulk, but I'm not cutting either. I want to make sure it doesn't escalate into full diabetes, but I'm not sure what else I can do diet or exercise wise. :/ Maybe a fluke result? I'm talking to the Dr. next month about the results more in depth, but t

When the salad comes, so does she.

Is there a circuit simulator that has a 6502 (and 65816, Z80, whatever), RAM, ROM, 6522, 74x series, etc. that you can built the circuit on a virtual PCB/breadboard and test it before building it in real life?

Over the years, I've had a lot of car audio systems. The 90's were great, but things just aren't the same anymore (ran Orion, JL Audio). Recently, I've had a couple... underperforming systems in my 2020 Mazda 6. I like my mid/high's (JL Audio C2-650). But, the bass has always been subpar. Had a JL Audio 10w0 in a ported box. It was decent, but not great. Upgraded to a new Orion XTR 12" with PPI amp (far from the old greatness, but it works). Decent, but not great... I'd say it was barely an upgrade. So, time to hit it again. I want strong, felt, accurate bass. The kind you can feel in your chest, but not overly loud to wake up the neighbors. I want to listen to some music from Dr. Dre to Eny

How much does it hurt to close multiple accounts? I have a couple Credit One, an Indigo and a Capital One that I am paying off and then closing (the first ones are obvious, Cap1 was good but low limit Platinum that was for building). That will leave me with 2 decent cards that have treated me well. All will be paid off, so utilization will be low. But, I'll be closing 4 cards. One Credit1 has 6 years of age, the others are < 3 years.

I'm not sure how much of a hit it'll put on me or for how long, but they are not good cards to keep and I'd like to move on from them. But, I'm also looking into a home loan late 2025 so don't want a huge, long lasting dip in my score. Looking to improve not o

I have a 1996 Honda Civic LX (non-VTEC) 1.6L (175K miles) that we replaced the water pump. Ended up replacing the temp sensors, thermostat (including the housing and gasket), radiator cap as well (and the obvious belts, etc.). Fan works when it's got a jumper across the temp sensor. Flushed the radiator, it's flowing well.

I bled the air out of the system (cap off, let it run, fill it as the bubbles come up), it's full, no leaks anywhere. Inside the car gets warm (pretty hot). Top hose gets hot, radiator gets hot. But - the thermostat doesn't open for it to cool, which also doesn't let the hot water get to that temp sensor to turn the fan on. I've tested the thermostat in a pot of hot wate

I've got almost 30 years as a desktop support, sys admin, security engineer IT professional. Several certifications, including networking (finishing my CCNP now), cloud (Azure, but end user side, not the backend stuff), security, etc. from the 90's until now. I'm looking to transition into a data center role locally (moreso looking to move out of my current position and into something else). However, most of the advertised roles are for entry level data center technician for ~30/hr (+/- a few depending on the recruiter). Is there a role either by a recruiter or direct hire that would take into account experience? I know it's not DC experience, and that's fine, but it's certainly more than en

This is probably a very dumb question. But, I bought some Powerstop brakes for my 2020 Mazda 6. They only had the rear set, so I bought them. I cannot for the life of me find a set for the front. Do they use the same rotors/pads as the rear (some say it's position specific/Amazon)? I just want to do it all at once, but having trouble finding the parts.

Again, dumb question, but I haven't seen it come up and can't find it on search (and it's not pointed out anywhere).

Thanks! Love this car, but the shaking from the OEM brakes is the only issue I've ever had (and it's not really an 'issue', just want an upgrade).

I'm looking to build a simple game or few. But, I'm looking to make them tile/sprite based. From what I am gathering, if I go straight 65c02, it'll be similar to the Atari 2600 and I'd be "racing the beam" sending output at the timings of the display. If I go with a TMS9918, I won't have to worry about that part of things, just the tiles and sprites (x,y coordinates and sprite pointer will put it there, without having to worry about the pixel by pixel/row by row output).

I wanted to avoid the subroutine of drawing the screen (320x200x8 color) row by row and calculating the tile size, what tile is in the array at that time, etc. as it'd eat up a ton of processing time. I think that was over

I had switched from Geico to Progressive then back to Geico. I left Progressive with a balance. I paid it when I got it. A few months later, I got a collections on my report from Credit Collection Services showing a zero balance. I never received any letters from them.

I've sent letters asking for validation of the debt (which has always been zero), and disputing it. They have never responded to my requests. They continue to validate it with the CRA. I cannot get a response from them at all. I've written to both CCS and Progressive with nothing in response.

What can I do to fix this? It's erroneous on my report, it never went to collections, I never received any notice, I have sent multi