Relictorum

I made a set of four targets each in 1/4" and 1/8" plywood. Each target is a 1-inch square with a crosshair and two concentric circles and a letter (from "A" to "D"). Whenever I need a reference point, I have Lightburn fire a point and set a target under it on the honeycomb.

I haven't yet - but I did consider - that the target squares could be put on both the file and the honeycomb board for easy reference.

Anyways, HTH.

I would like to chisel projects in my second floor apartment (a tiny studio). Is there a specific work support for chiseling that will dissipate the force and noise of banging on a project? I need something that might also hold the project, too.

My first thought was a small micro-sized workbench, but my skills aren't there yet. I have seen small portable work surfaces, but there's likely some traditional tool or solution that is better.

Also, I intend to use a soft faced hammer - one of those hammers with a red rubber face, and a yellow rubber face. Would a wooden mallet have any advantage over that type of hammer?

EDIT: Looks like I got my answers!

I am making a sawhorse of a different kind - article for reference here. I thought they were cool, and you might, too? I plan on making a pair of these low horses and adding a removable top as a sturdy work surface. Anyways, enjoy!

EDIT:

make a comment describing the build. Recommended to include lessons learned, wood and tools used and challenges faced

I made templates from 1/4" plywood using a laser and marked the parts. There's a template for the cross lap joint, the cutout on the base, and the radius of the furthest edges.The wood for the work itself is simple two-foot sections of 2x4's cut

I am wondering how much trouble it will be to cut through hardboard, which is readily and cheaply available at Home Depot, versus 3mm MDF, which I buy online. Is it easier to cut hardboard from the textured side, I wonder?

Given the appropriate cut settings, can you do any scrollsaw project with a laser cutter? Why or why not?

• How did you light the inside of your laser enclosure?
• What did you buy, and how did it work?

My current job seems like it's wrapping up so I am wondering what sorts of low stress jobs are out here? I am used to making about $21 and hour.

Lightburn has a feature for adding tabs to an object. For those who aren't familiar with CNC, a tab is a tiny little bridge that keeps a part from falling out of a sheet that's being cut. I am not referring to the big giant tabs that are so ubiquitous on cut boxes. A CNC tab is tiny tiny, and it is meant for you to remove it later. Experienced people may carry flush diagonal cutters on hand for trimming tabs.

If you don't have any CNC experience, you might not even know how valuable it is to hold a part in place. But you will, eventually.

This post is a list of woodworking terms that should spark some ideas in the group and be educational. Please (please!) correct any entry that is incorrect - I need an education, too!

• marquetry : using veneer to make pictures
• parquetry : using veneer to make patterns
• fretwork : cutting delicate patterns in wood (usually cuts that pass through)
• intarsia : marquetry with inlays instead of veneer
• inlay : embedding an object into another object

This post was partly inspired by the layered fretwork that we see on this group - I don't even know what to call that, if it has a formal name?

My last "laser table" was 3/4" plywood with ceramic tiles and casters.

Backerboard is friggin' cheap - if it works.

I have seen a lot of claims by diode laser manufacturers in the past. I own two laser engravers. Usually, their claims of "cutting" are mostly horseshit - but, at 1/4", I feel like that depth might be plausible for a 20W laser. Maybe? Currently it looks like Sculpfun or xTool might be good options. Got any feedback on these my application? Will they really cut 1/4" wood? Any wood? Hardboard?

EDIT: 1/4" is a relatively common panel thickness. I'm going down to Home Depot for a cheap, thin panel ...